Do you think that the Netherlands doesn’t have glorious beaches? Think again.
Zuid-Kennemerland National Park (South Kennemerland National Park or Nationaal Park Zuid-Kennemerland) lies on the Dutch coast, just a short distance from Haarlem. Its diverse landscape covers over 38 square kilometres, from rolling dunes to tranquil forests.
It’s an easy day trip from Haarlem, and one I’d recommend to anyone who thinks this country is all flat fields and canals. Here’s how I did it.
About Zuid-Kennemerland National Park
Entry to the park is free, and it’s open from sunrise to sunset. It’s a Natura 2000 site, which means it’s protected for its wildlife and plant life; this is a nature reserve first and a place to walk and cycle second.
The landscape shifts as you move through it. The west side is mostly open dune, the east thicker forest, with small lakes such as ‘t Wed dotted along the way.
Highland cattle and Konik horses graze freely, and a small herd of European bison was reintroduced some years back, though you’ll need an early start and a bit of luck to spot one.
Getting to Zuid-Kennemerland National Park from Haarlem
Zuid-Kennemerland National Park is around five miles west of Haarlem.
Rent a bike. My guesthouse host tried to talk me into cycling from Haarlem. It’s a flat, easy route and takes about 30 minutes to the park entrance. If your hotel can’t lend you one, you can rent a bike in town.
Take the bus. Instead, I hopped on bus #81 from Haarlem train station (direction Zandvoort), which dropped me off at Koevlak at the park’s southern entrance. The journey takes ten minutes, and there are usually two buses an hour.
As this bus also serves Bloemendaal Beach, you can walk there from Koevlak and pick up the bus for your return journey to Haarlem.
By train. The closest train station is at Overveen. From here, it’s a 15-minute walk to the Koevlak entrance.
Drive. If you’re driving, the park is easily accessible via the N200 or N208 roads. Ample free parking is available at Koevlak (Visitors Centre), Parnassia (near the beach) and Bleek en Berg.
My Day Trip to Zuid-Kennemerland National Park
The 81 bus drops you right outside the Visitor Centre, ideal for picking up information before you set off. If you fancy cycling instead of walking, you can hire a bike here too. Bring ID.
The park has a network of hiking trails for every level of fitness, from a leisurely stroll to a longer, more demanding walk.
All the routes are waymarked with colour-coded arrows. I followed the five-mile blue route to Parnassia, using the free audio tour you can download in advance.
It was a superb hike, especially the first stretch, along powder-soft sand and past a reed-fringed lake. The air smelled of hawthorn, and the ground either side was carpeted with violets and buttercups.
Rows of stately pines provided welcome shade before I reached Parnassia Beach. From there it’s about a mile on to Bloemendaal aan Zee.
After that, all that was left to do was grab lunch at the beachfront restaurant and listen to the waves for a while.
Other Things to Do at Zuid-Kennemerland National Park
Wildlife spotting
Keep your eyes open as you walk. There’s plenty to spot:
- Highland cattle: shaggy, good-natured and a common sight grazing in the open fields.
- Konik horses: a hardy, semi-wild breed that roams freely across the park.
- European bison: a small herd was reintroduced here some years ago. Sightings aren’t guaranteed, but early morning gives you the best chance.
- Birdlife: bring binoculars for birds of prey, waterfowl and songbirds around the park’s lakes.
- Deer: often seen grazing early morning or late afternoon.
Explore the historical Sites
I hadn’t expected a nature reserve to come with this much history, but there are a few sites worth exploring.
- Brederode Castle: a medieval ruin just outside the park, and a good stop if you want some context on the region’s past.
- Elswout Estate: a 17th-century estate with formal gardens and quiet walking paths.
- Duin en Kruidberg: a grand manor house at the park’s northern end.
My Top Tips for a Zuid-Kennemerland National Park Day Trip
- Wear comfortable shoes. With so much ground to cover, comfortable footwear is a must. Opt for hiking boots or sturdy sneakers.
- Pack a picnic. Eating options are limited and a DIY approach will allow you to dine when you want in a scenic setting.
- Plan your toilet stops. On the blue route from Koevlak, the first toilets are at Parnassia Beach.
- Check the weather. Dutch weather can be unpredictable, so check the forecast before you go and dress accordingly.
- Remember entry is free. There’s no admission fee for the park itself, only parking if you drive.
Ready to explore the beaches near Haarlem?
Although I half regret not braving the cycle paths, I had a brilliant day at Zuid-Kennemerland National Park. What struck me most was how much the landscape changes within such a small area, from old forest to open dune to beach, all in one afternoon.
If you need help planning the rest of your trip, my guide to the best things to do in Haarlem is a good place to start.
Happy travels!
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.