Like many travellers, I was lured to Hakone by the promise of steaming onsens and Mount Fuji views. But did it live up to the hype?
For me, Hakone was the most disappointing destination in Japan, and not in a way that better weather would have fully fixed. Its atmosphere resembled that of an overpriced theme park; think Disneyland with lower levels of customer service.
If you are on the fence about including Hakone in your Japan itinerary, this is the review for you. Based on my two-day stay, I’ll run through why you should think twice about visiting but also make a case for why it may be worth it for you.
Why You Should Think Twice About Visiting Hakone
Clear, sunny days are far from guaranteed
On average, it rains in Hakone 179 days of the year. Putting it another way, you have a 50:50 chance of catching a dry day there.
I visited in February, one of the driest months of the year, and had one dry but largely overcast day. On the second day, the rain was relentless.
If you come to Hakone to experience its famous onsens, the outside weather may not be a major consideration. On the (very) wet day, I enjoyed my resort hotel and spent quality onsen time.
However, it’s a different story if you are visiting Hakone to view its natural wonders.
Those coveted Mount Fuji views are not guaranteed
Hakone is one of the best places to view Mount Fuji (Fujisan), but you had better pray hard to the weather gods.
On my first Japan trip, I was treated to a wonderful view of Fujisan from the window of the shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto. I hankered after a closer view of the sacred mountain, which is why I ended up in Hakone.
To spot it, you need a clear day and to be up and about early. I was lucky that Mount Fuji revealed itself briefly when I arrived at Owakudani.
Ten minutes later, Fujisan was shrouded in dense cloud, not to be seen for the remainder of that day. Or the day after that, for that matter.
Hakone is touristy and crowded
If you’re searching for a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, this is not it. Visitors pour into the area, many on day trips from the capital, hoping for a glimpse of Fuji’s conical peak.
This places enormous pressure on the transport system, an appealing combination of trains, buses, cable cars, a ropeway and a pirate ship (yes, really). I estimate I spent as long queuing for transport as I did seeing the sights.
That said, I was unlucky in that the Hakone Ropeway, a popular section of the Hakone Loop, was closed. The ropeway is vulnerable to the elements and closes for safety reasons when it is very windy. Replacement buses were provided, but these were not frequent enough, allowing queues to build.
I spent much of the day being herded from one mode of transport to another as part of a vast shuffling group. The day’s soundtrack comprised instructions bellowed out of a megaphone and repeated whistleblowing with the zeal of an overenthusiastic football referee.
And I visited Hakone at one of the quieter times of the year. Heaven knows what it’s like on weekends in the cherry blossom season.
This is an expensive destination
Hakone is not the place to go if you are budget-conscious. Hotels and ryokans are pricey, and as many of these are located outside of the towns, you are hostage to the prices they charge for food and drink.
Don’t expect exemplary levels of customer care
One of the things I love about Japan is that you are treated with the utmost courtesy and respect almost anywhere you go. Almost.
I’m not saying that the customer service in Hakone was downright rude; it just fell short of what I’ve experienced elsewhere in Japan. I came away with a feeling that I was being processed everywhere I went.
Why It May Be Worth Visiting Hakone.
Just because I found Hakone overrated doesn’t mean you will. I’ll be the first to acknowledge that the weather put a damper on my experience in more ways than one.
On the plus side, Hakone is an easy journey from Tokyo, and there is no end of onsens. If you have a thing for 1970s-style mountain resorts and a transport network unlike anything you’ve ridden before, you’ve come to the right place, you’ve come to the right place.
And if Mount Fuji reveals its beauty to you, all may be forgiven if not forgotten.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.
I agree with you Bridget. Just spent nearly two days getting there True the gondola ride was great but overall a tourist trap Being herded from one place to another is not my idea of fun. I would give it a miss
I’m sorry it wasn’t the best experience for you, but sort of glad it wasn’t just me!