Although it may not be as famous as Bologna, Parma is 100% worth visiting.
This art-laden city in Emilia-Romagna has a well-deserved reputation as a gastronomic hotspot, but it serves up so much more than just cheese and ham. You can start the day with a tour of a Parmigiano Reggiano factory, admire Correggio’s frescoes in the afternoon and savour traditional tortelli by evening. Better still, it attracts a fraction of the crowds that plague more famous destinations.
I loved it, spending four days exploring its treasures and eating its food. Here’s everything you need to know about what to do in Parma, Italy and practical tips on how to make it happen.
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What to Do in Parma, Italy
1. Marvel at Parma Cathedral and its incredible frescoes
Your first stop should be the Duomo, where Correggio’s dome fresco of the Assumption of the Virgin creates an almost dizzying perspective of angels and clouds swirling upwards towards heaven. Pop a coin in the slot to illuminate this Renaissance masterpiece and prepare to crane your neck.
The cathedral’s interior is wallpapered with colourful frescoes, making it one of Italy’s most decorated churches. But don’t leave before seeing Benedetto Antelami’s Deposition. This marble relief sculpture is one of the most dramatic and moving artworks I’ve seen in recent years (and I’ve seen many).
The Duomo is open daily, and admission is free.
2. Explore the pink marble Baptistery
The octagonal Baptistery next door was built between 1196 and 1216 from rose-coloured Verona marble. Antelami designed it and created the sculptures that circle the exterior.
He is also responsible for the expressive sculptures representing the months and seasons displayed inside. Soaring overhead, the baptistery’s dome has sixteen segments, painted in the 13th century, each depicting biblical scenes and prophets.
Parma Baptistery is open daily, and you can buy your ticket from the Diocesan Museum on the opposite side of the piazza.
3. Browse the Diocesan Museum
Don’t visit this museum in the Bishop’s Palace basement expecting the usual ecclesiastical bits and bobs. Instead, its small collection focuses on Roman mosaics discovered in Piazza Duomo and artefacts from the cathedral and the Baptistery. I loved Antelami’s statues that once graced the Baptistery’s exterior niches.
It is open daily, and admission is included in your ticket for the Baptistery.
Queen of Sheba- Solomon
4. Visit San Giovanni Evangelista
Located behind the cathedral, San Giovanni Evangelista features another spectacular Correggio dome, depicting the Vision of St John at Patmos.
Visiting this Mannerist-style church is one of the best things to do in Parma if you’re a Renaissance fangirl or fanboy. The young Parmigianino painted several chapel frescoes here early in his career.
The church is open daily (closed between 12 pm and 3.30 pm), and admission is free.
5. Go for aperitivi in Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi
Lined with elegant, pastel-coloured buildings, this busy square is Parma’s beating heart. It’s home to the striking Palazzo del Governate, with its slender clock tower (it looks fabulous illuminated at night).
Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi is also a popular spot for aperitivo hour with tables spilling onto the pavement. During my stay, we got into a routine of stopping for a Prosecco or Campari Spritz (or two) at the friendly, family-run Caffé San Pietro.
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6. Shop for ham and cheese on Via Farini
One of Parma’s loveliest streets, Via Farini, connects Piazza Garibaldi to Strada della Repubblica. Here, you’ll find La Prosciutteria, where locals queue for the finest prosciutto and parmigiano.
The shop’s chalkboard lists various aged cheeses, whilst legs of ham hang from the ceiling.
7. Wallow in the opulence of Teatro Regio
This temple to Giuseppe Verdi opened in 1829 and quickly became one of Italy’s most important opera houses.
The neoclassical façade gives way to an interior dripping with gilded stucco and painted ceilings. The auditorium’s massive bronze chandelier was forged in Paris, and Giovan Battista Borghesi’s painted curtain remains one of the few surviving examples from that era.
If you can’t attend an opera performance, there are one-hour guided tours of Teatro Regio in English. However, these tours are infrequent and operate on an ad hoc basis. Check dates and book here, or ask at the opera house.
Although I couldn’t fit in a tour during my visit to Parma, the lovely staff let me sneak a peek.
8. Admire Correggio’s dome at Santa Maria della Steccata
This rather gloomy Renaissance church faces Teatro Regio and stands on the site where a miraculous wall image once drew pilgrims. It’s worth popping in to view Correggio’s dome painting of the Assumption of the Virgin.
It’s free to visit, but it typically closes midday for a few hours, like most Italian churches.
9. Explore the museums of Palazzo della Pilotta
This vast complex houses five museums under one roof, making it an essential part of your Parma itinerary, even if you have just a passing interest in art and culture.
Palazzo della Pilotta is open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am – 7 pm, and one ticket covers all museums (you can’t buy individual tickets). There’s a lot to see and, depending on your level of interest, I recommend at least 2 -3 hours exploring the complex.
The National Archaeological Museum displays Roman statues, Greek vases and bronze statuettes collected by the Farnese and Gonzaga families.
Built entirely from wood, Teatro Farnese is a spectacular space with its U-shaped seating and 40-metre stage. Stick around for the sound and light show, which runs every twenty minutes, bringing the theatre to life.
The National Gallery of Parma showcases masterpieces by local boys made good, Correggio and Parmigianino, alongside works by Leonardo da Vinci and Canaletto.
- Madonna della Scala, Correggio (c. 1524)
Head of a Woman called “La Scapiliata”, Leonardo da Vinci (c. 1492-1501)
The Palatine Library is a bibliophile’s fantasy, with towering wooden bookcases reaching towards frescoed ceilings and thousands of leather-bound volumes lining the walls. Though Allied bombs damaged much of the palace in 1944, careful restoration has returned these elegant reading rooms to their former scholarly splendour.
I confess the Bodoni Museum was one museum too many for me. It celebrates Giambattista Bodoni, the 18th-century printer whose elegant typeface continues to grace book covers and luxury brands today.
10. Wander through Camera di San Paolo
San Paolo Monastery is a must-see in Parma if you are an art lover. Two of its rooms – Camera di San Paolo – were painted by Correggio and Alessandro Araldi around 1519.
After a bust-up between the abbess Giovanna da Piacenza and the popes, the convent was cloistered in 1524, and no one but the sisters saw the frescoes until 1810. Although Correggio’s refectory gets most of the attention, I consider Araldi’s chamber its equal.
It is open Tuesday – Sunday, and a small admission cost applies.
11. Be enchanted by the Puppet Museum
Next to the Camera di San Paolo is one of Parma’s hidden gems.
The Castello dei Burattini (Puppet Museum) houses an extensive collection of Italian and international puppets from the 18th through 20th centuries. The displays trace the history of puppeteering with beautifully preserved examples of traditional Italian marionettes and glove puppets.
Parma’s Puppet Museum is open Wednesday – Monday, and is free to visit.
12. Discover Museo Glauco Lombardi
Housed in a graceful Baroque palace, this museum evokes court life in the Duchy of Parma during the time of Maria-Louise, Napoleon’s second wife, who ruled the duchy from 1814 to 1847. The collection includes furniture, paintings, clothing and personal items, including portraits of the Duchess herself alongside decorative arts and memorabilia connected to the Napoleonic era.
13. Tour a Parmigiano Reggiano factory
Visiting a Parmigiano Reggiano caseificio ranks among my most memorable Italian experiences. These dairies are located in the countryside outside Parma, where you’ll watch cheesemakers following centuries-old techniques to create those massive wheels you see displayed in the city’s cheese shops.
Unless you have a car, you’ll need to book a tour to visit one of these Parmesan cheese factories. Other travellers love this experience, but I joined this tour as it included a Prosciutto di Parma factory tour.
14. Experience a Prosciutto di Parma factory tour
A Prosciutto di Parma factory tour perfectly partners the cheese experience. We learnt how this ham achieves its distinctive flavour through careful ageing in the hills south of Parma, where specific humidity and temperature conditions exist.
Like the Parmigiano Reggiano factory tour, expect your experience to end with tastings and sampling local wines.
15. Sample the best food in Italy
Saving the best until last.
Parma’s culinary reputation extends far beyond its famous exports. The city takes its food seriously, with traditional dishes that showcase local ingredients.
Start with tagliere di salumi (cured meats board) with a side of torta fritta (fried dough), arriving at your table piping hot and crispy. Then, move on to anolini in brodo, tiny stuffed pasta served in rich meat broth. It was my favourite local pasta dish and the perfect winter warmer during a bone-chilling November visit.
The local Lambrusco is excellent, served slightly chilled in ceramic cups. This lightly sparkling red wine cuts through rich foods beautifully. And Parmigiano Reggiano appears at every meal, from grated over pasta to chunks served with traditional balsamic vinegar as an appetiser.
- Tagliere di salumi and torta fritta
Anolini in brodo- Enjoying lambrusco
Lambrusco
My Suggested 1-Day Parma Itinerary
So far, so good, but what should you see if you have only one day in Parma? Many people visit Parma as a day trip from Bologna, and there’s no way you’ll be able to squeeze in all of my favourite things to see into a day.
The good news is that the historic centre is a 10-15-minute walk from the train station, and Parma is easy to explore on foot. Most of its main attractions are within a five-minute stroll from the Duomo.
Here are two suggested itineraries. The first one hits Parma’s historic and cultural highlights. Alternatively, choose the second one if you want to tour the Parmesan Cheese and Prosciutto di Parma factories.
Itinerary #1
Itinerary #2
Plan Your Visit
Best time to visit
Although Parma is a year-round destination, spring and autumn are pleasantly warm. Summers are balmy but not brutally hot.
I last visited in winter when it was cold and damp, but prices were lower and there were few other tourists.
Getting there
Regular trains connect Parma to Bologna (under an hour) and Milan. If driving, note that the historic centre is a Limited Traffic Zone (LTZ), but there are parking lots about a 10-minute walk from the cathedral.
Where to stay
I enjoyed my stay at Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati, a beautifully restored building next to the Baptistery. The central location made everything walkable, and the staff were excellent.
For something near the train station, take a look at NH Parma. Reviews are good, and it works well if you’re taking day trips throughout the region.
Where to eat in Parma
During my visit, I tried several excellent restaurants.
Osteria della Zingaro serves traditional dishes in a cosy atmosphere with friendly service. Osteria dei Servi occupies a former monastery with exposed brick and vaulted ceilings, whilst Trattoria Corrieri pulls the crowds with its no-nonsense approach to classic Parmigiana cooking.
Beyond Parma
From Parma, you’re perfectly positioned to explore more of Emilia-Romagna, one of my favourite Italian regions. Bologna is less than an hour away by train, with its medieval towers and endless porticoed streets. Modena, famous for its balsamic vinegar and Romanesque architecture, is another excellent day trip.
I also love Ferrara and its Renaissance treasures. The glittering mosaics of Ravenna, Milan and the treasures of Florence and Milan, although slightly further afield, are also doable with proper planning.
Happy travels!
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.