Driving in Madeira is not for the faint-hearted. If the narrow roads, hairpin bends and steep inclines don’t freak you out, driving within a hair’s breadth of precipitous drops may do the trick.
It’s not for me.
But here’s the thing: you don’t need a car to see the best of the island. I know because I’ve done it. Over seven days, I visited Madeira’s must-see attractions using its bus network and a handful of day tours, and I didn’t miss having a set of wheels once.
This is my tried-and-tested car-free Madeira itinerary with everything I did and how I got there.
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How This Madeira Itinerary Works
Funchal is your base. As the island’s capital and main transport hub, it puts buses, tour operators and the cable car all within easy reach.
I visited Madeira as a solo traveller and stayed in Apartamentos Sousa. But if this doesn’t meet your needs, Sé Boutique Hotel and Castanheiro Boutique Hotel are good alternatives.
Days 1, 3, 5 and 7 are spent in and around Funchal; Days 2 and 4 are full-day tours into the island’s interior and coastline; Day 6 is a half-day trip to the Valley of the Nuns.
Getting around is covered in full at the bottom of this post.
- DAY 1: Highlights of Funchal
- DAY 2: Western Madeira tour
- DAY 3: Monte & Botanical Gardens
- DAY 4: Eastern Madeira Tour
- DAY 5: Food, wine and the waterfront
- DAY 6: Valley of the Nuns
- DAY 7: Cãmara de Lobos
DAY 1: Highlights of Funchal
Start your week in Madeira by getting to know your home base, Funchal.
Home to 40% of the island’s 260,000-strong population, it’s far more than a tourist gateway. It’s a working city where Madeiran culture is very much alive. Colonial churches, gorgeous gardens and pedestrianised streets paved in distinctive limestone and basalt mosaics make it a joy to explore on foot.
Joining a walking tour is an excellent way to get your bearings. I did this one — guided by a Polish Erasmus student at the University of Madeira — for a very modest cost, and it was well worth it. For a deeper look at what’s worth your time, take a look at my guide to things to see in Funchal.
Praça do Município is a good starting point. Funchal’s elegant main square is paved in black and white stone mosaics and lined with historic buildings.
On its northern edge, Igreja de São João Evangelistica do Colégio (the Collegiate Church) was founded by the Jesuits in 1574 and is richly decorated with gilded wood carvings, paintings and 17th and 18th-century tiles. Facing it is the former bishop’s residence, now home to the Museu de Arte Sacra, renowned for its outstanding collection of Flemish paintings and sculptures.
Peek into the courtyard of the Câmara Municipal (Town Hall) on the eastern side of the square for the statue of Leda and the Swan.
A few minutes’ walk south, the Sé (Cathedral) was built between 1493 and 1517 and is one of the few survivors of Madeira’s early days of colonisation. Don’t be put off by the plain exterior; inside, it’s a fabulous fusion of Gothic and Moorish architecture with a recently restored inlaid cedar ceiling, gilded altars and a smattering of azulejos.
Ten minutes east of the cathedral, the Mercado dos Lavradores (Workers’ Market) is where women in traditional dress sell flowers and more varieties of tropical fruit than you knew existed. Visit on a Friday or Saturday when the lower floor heaves with produce from across the island.
The market marks the western edge of Zona Velha (Funchal Old Town).
This former fishermen’s quarter was once a no-go area, but it was transformed by the Painted Doors Project. In 2010, photographer José Maria Zyberchem invited artists to paint the doors along Rua de Santa Maria. Today, around 200 doors are painted, each one different.
As the sun sets, this is a great place to finish your first day in Madeira with a glass of poncha (a fruity cocktail made with local sugarcane liqueur) and a fish dinner.
DAY 2: Western Madeira
Madeira’s real treasures lie in its rural interior. From terraces of banana plants clinging to the balmy southern slopes to windswept mountain peaks and emerald valleys, the scenery is something else.
Joining a group tour is by far the easiest way to explore Western Madeira. Some of the stops are reachable by bus, but you couldn’t see them all in one day, and the viewpoints aren’t accessible without your own transport.
>>> FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THIS TOUR OF WESTERN MADEIRA
Cabo Girão
Towering 589 metres above the Atlantic, this is the third-highest sea cliff in Europe. The views east towards Funchal are sensational.
Step onto the glass-floored Skywalk if you dare. There’s nothing between you and the ocean 1,900 feet below.
Ribeira Brava
This town’s name – “Wild River” – feels at odds with its sleepy nature. Outside of winter, the river is less gushing, more tinkling.
The main sight is São Bento (St. Benedict’s Church), a 16th-century church with lavish gilded woodwork, Bohemian chandeliers and a handsome façade.
Into the mountains
From here, the tour climbs into the interior, through the ravishing Serra de Água (Forest of Water) to the Encumeada viewpoint at just over 1,000 metres. Set on a ridge that runs through the island’s centre, the Ribeira Brava valley lies to the south and the São Vicente valley to the north.
Higher still is the Lombo do Mouro viewpoint at almost 1,400 metres. It is often obscured by cloud, but spectacularly clear on the day I visited, with laurel forests stretching as far as the eye could see under a light canopy of trade-wind cloud.
And then up again to Paúl da Serra, Madeira’s largest plateau at an average altitude of 1,500 metres, home to wandering cows and the starting point of the popular 25 Fountains levada walk
Laurisilva Forest
The UNESCO-listed Laurisilva of Madeira is the world’s largest preserved area of laurel forest, covering 20% of the island. Several species of laurel here are unique to Madeira and the other Macaronesian islands.
Porto Moniz
At the extreme north-western tip of the island, Porto Moniz is famous for its natural volcanic swimming pools, formed thousands of years ago when a tongue of lava flowed into the Atlantic and was carved by the sea. Both pool areas are free to use.
The larger one has a bar and changing facilities but closes when waves are at their most vigorous (it was closed when I visited). The smaller pool to the east is always open.
Véu da Noiva
The last viewpoint of the day. To the east, a slender waterfall cascades straight into the ocean; to the west, the town of Seixal.
DAY 3: Cable Cars, Gardens and (maybe) a Toboggan
On the slopes just northeast of Funchal are two of Madeira’s most beautiful gardens: Monte Palace Madeira Tropical Garden in the hilltop town of Monte, and the Jardim Botânico (Botanical Garden), a short cable car ride below it.
One practical note: between April and November, there’s almost always at least one cruise ship in port, and the cable car to Monte is an easy excursion from the cruise terminal. Expect queues from late morning onwards. If you can, pick a day with fewer ships in port, or catch one of the first cable cars of the day.
Monte Palace Madeira Tropical Garden
Visiting the Monte Palace Tropical Garden should be high on your Madeira bucket list. Spread across 70,000 square metres, it is home to about 100,000 plant species from across the globe. Water gushes, fountains cascade and the resident peacocks strut their stuff.
But it’s far more than a plant collection. There’s a wonderful exhibition of Zimbabwean stone sculptures, displays of minerals and precious stones, decorative tiles spanning the 16th to 21st centuries, and two oriental gardens complete with Buddhas, pagodas, koi carp and a line of solemnly painted wooden Samurai.
VISITING MONTE PALACE
- Address: Caminho das Babosas, 4A (Entrada Junto ao Teleférico), Caminho das Babosas, 4 (Entrada Norte) and Caminho do Monte, 174 (Entrada Este – closed at weekends) 9050-288 Funchal
- Opening hours: Open daily except for 25th December from 9 am until 7 pm (until 6 pm in winter)
- Admission fee applies. Check current prices and opening hours here.
Jardim Botânico
Half the size of Monte Palace, the Botanical Garden occupies the grounds of a quinta once owned by the Reid family (of Reid’s Palace Hotel).
Its terraces house around 3,000 exotic species from every continent, including a section of indigenous Madeiran and Atlantic island plants, an arboretum, succulents, and tropical and medicinal species. I spotted sugar cane, coffee bean pods and avocado trees.
Birds of Paradise — Madeira’s national flower — form a bright curtain at one viewpoint, framing a view over Funchal and the bay. The formal garden, patterned in purple and green acanthus, is one of the prettiest things I saw all week.
VISITING JARDIM BOTÂNICO
- Address: Caminho do Meio, Bom Sucesso, Funchal
- Opening hours: Open daily except for 25th December from 9 am until 6 pm
- Admission fee applies. Check current prices and opening hours here.
How to get there by cable car
Taking the cable car is by far the most scenic option.
From the base station next to Funchal’s seafront promenade, the Teleférico do Funchal takes you up to Monte in a wonderful 20-minute ride. From Monte, a second cable car — the Teleférico do Jardim Botânico — drops you down to the Botanical Garden. Check current prices and timetables here
Monte’s famous wicker toboggans
Before you buy a two-way cable car ticket, decide whether you want to take the wicker toboggan back towards Funchal instead.
These toboggans originally carried freight down the steep 5km hill between Monte and Funchal; today the ride covers 2km of that route, steered by two carreiros in traditional straw boaters, their rubber-soled boots acting as brakes.
It is not cheap. In 2026, a solo ride costs €27.50; two people €35. Check current prices here.
When I visited, the queue was epic. Note that the toboggan service does not run on Sundays.
Getting there by bus
Buses 20, 21, 22 and 48 serve Monte; buses 31 and 31a serve the Botanical Garden. Routes and fares here.
DAY 4: Eastern Madeira
The east of the island packs in some of Madeira’s most dramatic landscapes, including the third-highest peak accessible by car and the island’s famous traditional thatched houses. I did this on a guided tour that covers places you simply can’t reach by public transport.
>>> FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THIS TOUR OF EASTERN MADEIRA
Terreiro da Luta
From this viewpoint north of Monte, a large statue of Our Lady of Peace blesses Funchal below.
Continuing north through the Ecological Park of Funchal and Poiso at 1,412 metres, the cloud suddenly lifted to reveal blue skies (our guide told us this is a common occurrence). Blueberry bushes and gorse clung to the sides of the road.
Pico do Arieiro
There are sights you never forget, and the view from Pico do Arieiro is one of mine. At 1818 metres, it’s the third-highest peak in Madeira and the only one you can reach without a hike.
From the windswept summit, there’s a 360-degree panorama of jagged canyon walls, frozen lava fields and a sea of cloud that rolls in and out with considerable haste. Pico do Arieiro is also the start of the famous hiking route to Pico Ruivo and one of the island’s best spots for sunrise.
Ribeiro Frio
Driving through an avenue of eucalyptus trees as tall as cathedral spires, we reach sleepy Ribeiro Frio. This is home to a well-known trout farm – you have to pay to enter but can take a peek at it from the roadside – and is the start of two popular levada walks.
The shorter one is an easy one-mile there-and-back stroll (PR11) to a panoramic viewpoint known as the Balcöes (balconies). Starting on the opposite side of the road, a longer walk (PR10) is one of Madeira’s most popular.
Santana
Santana is home to reconstructions of palheiros, a traditional A-framed houses unique to this part of the island. These white stucco buildings feature a bright red front door, red and blue window frames with shutters and a thatched roof.
Five are clustered around the town hall; one houses the Tourist Information Office, and the rest are shops. A further palheiro in the grounds of O Colmo restaurant has a free-to-visit reconstructed interior.
Ponta do Rosto
From the eastern tip of the island, the Miradouro da Ponta do Rosto has sensational views of the russet-coloured cliffs of Ponta de São Lourenço, another popular sunrise spot.
DAY 5: Food, Wine and the Waterfront
A day to slow down and make the most of Funchal itself.
Food and culture walking tour
There are few better ways to get to know a country and its culture than through its food. I joined this highly-rated walking tour with a local guide who took us through the market, into the Old Town and introduced us to typical Madeiran food and drink along the way.
>>> MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKING
Wine tasting at Blandy’s Wine Lodge
Well. It would be almost rude not to.
Blandy’s Wine Lodge is a Funchal institution and has been distilling wine for seven generations using the traditional canteiro method. You can take a tour of the wine lodge, which ends with a tasting, or simply go for the tasting alone.
Whale and dolphin watching
Led by a marine biologist, these popular catamaran cruises give you the chance to spot these beautiful mammals in the waters off Funchal.
Several species can be seen year-round, though they’re most plentiful between May and September. There’s also a sunset tour option.
>>> MORE INFORMATION ON THE CRUISE | SUNSET TOUR
DAY 6: Valley of the Nuns (Curral das Freiras)
The Valley of the Nuns is an easy and hugely rewarding day trip from Funchal.
A narrow road winds ten miles along hairpin bends to Curral das Freiras, a village at the bottom of a sheer-sided canyon. The nuns in question fled here in the 16th century from Santa Clara Convent to escape pirates, and the village remained cut off from the outside world until roads were tunnelled through the mountains in the 20th century. It’s famous for its chestnuts, and you’ll find chestnut-flavoured everything in the village.
The village is perfectly pleasant, but the real draw is the lookout point of Eira do Serrado, high above. The views are extraordinary.
Getting there
The frequent #81 bus runs between Funchal and Curral das Freiras. Many of the services also stop at Eira do Serrado.
From Eira do Serrado to Curral das Freiras, take the steep downward path into the village, a one-hour walk, or wait for the next bus. There is a hotel and restaurant at Eira do Serrado.
A half-day tour from Funchal is a good option if the path — with its fairly notable drop on one side — isn’t your idea of fun. Most half-day tours also include a stop at Câmara de Lobos. There’s also a tuk-tuk tour for a more memorable ride.
DAY 7: Câmara de Lobos
Cãmara de Lobos is one of the easiest day trips from Funchal, just five miles west by bus.
This picturesque fishing town is famous as the place where Winston Churchill liked to set up his easel. Brightly coloured boats fill its natural harbour and grizzled fishermen play cards at outdoor tables.
It’s an easy, unhurried final day.
Getting there
Hop on the frequent local #1 bus from Funchal, which drops you at Ponta da Laranjeira (a ten-minute walk to the harbour). Or catch one of the westbound Rodoeste buses along Estrada Monumental or Avenida do Mar.
On the way back, you can walk part of the seafront promenade that links Câmara de Lobos with Funchal’s Praia Formosa.
Getting Around Madeira Without a Car
By bus
Unlike places like Tenerife or Lanzarote — both served by a single bus company — Madeira has four operators. Once you know which covers which part of the island, it’s not as complicated as it sounds. The buses are colour-coded, which helps.
- Horários do Funchal — Yellow (urban) and yellow-and-white (interurban) buses covering Funchal and nearby areas, including Ribeiro Frio, Santana and Camacha
- Rodoeste — Gold and red striped buses serving the north and west: Câmara de Lobos, Cabo Girão, São Vicente, Porto Moniz and Seixal
- SAM — Green, yellow and white buses serving the east: Funchal to the airport, Caniço, Machico, Caniçal and Santo da Serra
- EACL — Maroon, grey and white buses also covering the east, including Garajau and Ponta da Oliveira
However, getting around Madeira by bus is far from perfect.
Many routes are designed around commuter hours, so services can be thin in the middle of the day. There is no public bus to Pico do Arieiro. But for the places on this itinerary that are bus-accessible, a local service is a cheap and easy option.
I strongly recommend getting the Madeira Bus and Touring Map before you travel. It’s the best single resource for navigating the island’s bus network.
In Funchal, the cheapest way to use urban buses is to load credit onto a contactless GIRO card, available from GIRO machines (there’s a handy one at the cable car station) and from kiosks around the city. More information on fares here.
On day tours
An organised tour is a godsend for the parts of Madeira that buses don’t reach. The tours are excellent value, group sizes are small (typically 6–14 people), and you’ll benefit from a local guide’s knowledge. The big coach groups you see around the island are usually shore excursions from the cruise ships.
If you’re travelling solo, these tours are also a great way to meet people. I used and can personally recommend Lido Tours, though other established companies offer similar itineraries.
Where to Stay in Funchal
Funchal is the obvious base for exploring Madeira without a car.
Many of the high-end hotels are clustered on the road heading west out of the city — lovely if you want sunsets and sea views, but quite a walk from the centre. To stay close to the main attractions, I’d recommend the Funchal Town Centre or Old Town.
Apartamentos Sousa – where I stayed. A lovely apartment with sea views on the eastern edge of the Old Town, a ten-minute walk to the cable car station. Spacious, comfortable, very affordable and with a washing machine. >>> More info
Sé Boutique Hotel – a stone’s throw from Funchal’s Cathedral, this chic hotel has a swimming pool and rates include a good breakfast. >>> More info
Castanheiro Boutique Hotel – 4-star, just off the main square, with an outdoor pool and hot tub. >>> More info
Where to Eat in Funchal
Eating out in Funchal is a joy. There are plenty of restaurants, the food quality is generally good, and it’s relatively inexpensive. Here are three places I tried and liked.
Bela 5 Snack Bar – R. Bela São Tiago 5A, 9060-291 Funchal
A simple Old Town café that’s a local favourite. Excellent grilled fish (the catch of the day is on a blackboard), friendly service and very good value.
GALERIA Restaurante – Rua de Santa Maria 68, 9060-291 Funchal
Another superb choice in the Old Town, where I had the best prawn risotto of my life.
Taberna do Capitão – R. da Alfândega, 135, Beco do Açucar 3, 9000-059 Funchal
A cosy restaurant near the cathedral in a historic building. Honest food at a reasonable price.
Planning Your Visit
When to go
Madeira is a year-round destination. I visited in November and had wall-to-wall sunshine and temperatures in the low to mid-20s for my entire stay.
For wildflowers, April and May are the best months. The wettest period runs from October to January. July and August are the busiest months, as is late December when Funchal’s New Year’s Eve fireworks draw crowds from across Europe.
Getting to Madeira
Madeira Airport (FNC) is the gateway to the island and will be one of the most dramatic landings of your life. Its short runway has mountains on one side and the ocean on the other, plus troublesome crosswinds, making it one of Europe’s trickiest landings.
The single terminal is mostly underground.
Getting from Madeira Airport to Funchal
- Taxi: €30–45, depending on your accommodation and driver
- Pre-arranged transfer: worth comparing via Booking.com
- Aerobus: Leaves hourly, 30 minutes to central Funchal, €6.50 in 2026. Route and timetable here
My Top Tips for Visiting Madeira
Microclimates are real. When the sun is splitting the palm trees in Funchal, it may be raining five miles north. The weather can change several times a day, especially when you’re moving around the island. I stopped trusting forecasts by day two.
Bring layers. Factor in altitude as well as weather. At Pico do Arieiro, it was 10 degrees with a sharp wind. I was very grateful for a down jacket on a day that had started warm in Funchal.
50 cents for toilets. Most public loos require a 50-cent coin to get in. Keep some change to hand.
Have a fabulous week in Madeira. For more on planning your trip, take a look at these:
- Solo Travel in Madeira: The Ultimate Guide
- 35+ Fabulous Things to Do in Funchal, Madeira
- How to Visit Monte Palace Tropical Garden in Madeira
- How to Do a Day Trip to Câmara de Lobos, Madeira from Funchal
- How to Visit the Sensational Valley of the Nuns, Madeira from Funchal
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.