If ten different people asked me which place they should not omit from their Budapest itinerary, I would give each of them the same answer: the Great Synagogue on Dohány Street.
Also known as Dohány Street Synagogue, it was easily the highlight of my most recent trip to Budapest. An architectural marvel, a beacon of cultural heritage and a testament to the enduring spirit of the city’s Jewish people. It’s a must-see even if you have only a passing interest in architecture or history.
Here’s everything you need to know before you visit.
A brief history of the largest synagogue in Europe
Budapest’s Great Synagogue is the largest in Europe and the second largest in the world, with a capacity of nearly 3,000 people. Designed by Ludwig Förster, an Austrian Gentile architect, it was consecrated in 1859, when Budapest’s Jewish community was thriving and prosperous. The building’s opulence reflects that.
World War II was devastating for the synagogue. It was bombed by the Hungarian pro-Nazi Arrow Cross Party in 1939 and suffered severe damage during the Nazi occupation. An extensive restoration was completed in 1998, partly funded by the actor Tony Curtis, the son of Hungarian Jewish immigrants.
The architecture: a Christian architect inspired by Islamic buildings
Inspired by the Mosque-Cathedral in Cordoba, Spain and the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Förster’s Jewish temple is the epitome of the so-called Byzantine-Moorish architectural style popular in the 1850s. Eight-pointed stars cover the exterior and floor tiles, and the gilded onion-domed towers are more reminiscent of an Eastern Orthodox church than a synagogue.
Inside, shafts of blue and amber light stream through the stained glass windows.
With a classic three-nave layout, its vast interior is more like a cathedral than a traditional synagogue. Unusually, there’s an organ, and the Ark of the Covenant sits on an altar.
This architectural hybrid was no accident.
The design of the Great Synagogue reflects the patriotism of the Neolog faction of Budapest’s Jewry and their desire to integrate into Hungarian society. Even the brickwork’s red, yellow and blue colours echo Budapest’s coat of arms. The Neologs continue to practise a less conservative form of Judaism, allowing women to sit with men and organ music during ceremonies.
The Budapest Great Synagogue Complex
The synagogue itself is just one part of a wider complex that combines celebration of Jewish heritage with commemoration of the Holocaust.
The cemetery contains simple headstones marking the mass graves of the 2,281 Jews who died here in 1944. László Vágó and Ferenc Faragó designed it as a place of meditation.
The domed Heroes’ Temple sits behind this courtyard. This was built between 1929 and 1931 to honour the 10,000 Jewish soldiers who died fighting for Hungary in World War I.
The Hungarian Jewish Museum is included in your admission ticket and has a good collection of Jewish artefacts, including clothing, menorahs and jewellery.
The Raoul Wallenberg Holocaust Memorial Park is the most moving part of the complex. The Tree of Life memorial, shaped like an upside-down candle holder, has leaves engraved with the names of Hungarian Jews who perished in WWII.
Echoing the memorial at Yad Vashem in Jerusalem, the Righteous Among the Nations Memorial commemorates the Hungarians who helped Jews evade the Nazis.
Visiting Dohány Street Synagogue: Practical Information
I visited Budapest as a solo traveller on an Interrail trip through Central and Eastern Europe. If you’re planning the rest of your route, my guides to Bratislava and Brno are a good place to start.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.