Some sights are burned onto your retina long after you have returned to your hotel. The Valley of the Nuns in Madeira is one of those sights for me.
The name tells a story. In 1566, nuns from Funchal’s Santa Clara convent fled here when French pirates attacked the city. They found refuge in this secluded valley, hence Curral das Freiras – ‘Refuge of the Nuns’.
Get the lowdown on why you should add this to your Madeira itinerary, exactly how to do a Valley of the Nuns day trip from Funchal and what to do in Curral das Freiras.
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Valley of the Nuns, Madeira at a Glance
- Location: Curral das Freiras in central Madeira
- Best for: dramatic mountain scenery and a classic viewpoint
- Time needed: half a day from Funchal
- Main highlight: Eira do Serrado viewpoint
- Village itself: small and low-key
Is the Valley of the Nuns Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. The view from the Eira do Serrado viewpoint down into the Valley of the Nuns is one of the most impressive sights in Madeira and makes a very easy day trip from Funchal. In all my years of travelling, I have rarely seen such dramatic scenery for so little effort.
From this high lookout, you see a deep basin ringed by steep mountains in the heart of the island, with the small village of Curral das Freiras far below on the valley floor.
How to Get from Funchal to the Valley of the Nuns
The Valley of the Nuns is just under eight miles by road from Funchal. Think of your day trip as a journey of two parts:
- A stop at the Eira do Serrado viewpoint
- A second stop in Curral das Freiras village.
Driving there
- Best for: confident drivers and those wanting to combine this with other stops on the same day.
Exploring Madeira by car will always give you the most flexibility. It also presents the most opportunities for shredding your nerves.
Even if you have a rental car, think twice before driving to the Nuns’ Valley. On an island that is infamous for its challenging roads, the drive to Curral das Freiras is in a class of its own.
We are talking about a narrow, twisting road bordered by precipitous drops. I witnessed three drivers forced to reverse their vehicles along the narrow road at Eira do Serrado to allow a bus to pass. True story.
Funchal to the Valley of the Nuns by bus
- Best for: solo travellers, anyone without a car and those happy to work to a timetable
Bus #81 was a far better option for me, which stopped at the Eira do Serrado viewpoint before continuing to the village of Curral das Freiras. You can check the timetable here (some buses don’t stop at the viewpoint).
The bus sets off from Funchal’s cable car station, and the journey takes roughly 45 minutes. A return ticket will set you back around €6.
You have two options to continue from Eira do Serrado to the Curral das Freiras village: wait for the next bus or walk. To pass the time as you wait for the next 81 bus, there is a hotel and restaurant at the viewpoint and a few shops.
The Nuns’ Valley walking trail to Curral das Freiras is clearly signposted and leads straight into the heart of the village. It takes approximately one hour.
By taxi or day tour
- Best for: convenience and a no-stress trip
If there is a group of you, it is worth considering getting a taxi from Funchal to the Valley of the Nuns. A Bolt cab is likely a cheaper option.
Alternatively, let someone else take care of the arrangements for you and join a half-day tour from Funchal. Many of these excursions include a stop in the lovely Câmara de Lobos.
This is a good option if you don’t fancy the walk down to Curral das Freiras or don’t want to kick your heels waiting for the next bus.
If you are a solo traveller, day tours are a great way to make new friends on the road. I travelled alone to Madeira and met some great people this way.
Take a look at this inexpensive half-day tour that has attracted great reviews. For a memorable and fun day trip to the Nun’s Valley, there’s this tuk-tuk tour.
What to See
The viewpoint at Eira do Serrado
The main reason to visit the Valley of the Nuns is for the jaw-dropping views from Eira do Serrado.
From this viewpoint’s elevation of 1,094 metres, the village appears spotlit at the foot of the canyon. You may be able to make out Ribeira dos Socorridos (literally, “river of the survivors”), which slices Curral das Freiras into two.
Surrounding it are the majestic mountains of the central massif, including Pico da Cruz, Pico de Serradinho, Pico Grande and Pico da Geada. Vineyards cling to the steep slopes for dear life.
Curral das Freiras village
I’ll level with you; exploring Curral das Freiras won’t take you long. I just mooched around a few shops and visited the church.
The surrounding area is abundant with chestnut trees, and the village is famous for its liqueurs and cakes made from these. You won’t have a problem tracking down chestnut-based souvenirs.
The Church of Our Lady of Livramento (Paróquia de Nossa Senhora do Livramento) was built in the late 18th century to replace an earlier chapel. It’s more restrained than Madeira’s typical gilded Baroque churches and has a lovely painted ceiling with Christ at its centre and a fine stained-glass window.
Valley of the Nuns Day Trip FAQs
Is the Valley of the Nuns worth visiting from Funchal?
Yes, mainly for the viewpoint at Eira do Serrado. The view down into Curral das Freiras is the real highlight and is one of the most dramatic mountain scenes in Madeira.
How long do you need for the Valley of the Nuns?
Around half a day is enough for most people. This gives you time for the viewpoint, the journey through the mountains and a short wander in Curral das Freiras. If you are using the bus, allow extra time around the timetable.
Can you visit the Valley of the Nuns without a car?
Yes, you can get there by bus from Funchal, which is what I did. It takes longer than driving, but saves you from tackling the mountain road yourself. Taxis and tours are another easy option if you prefer something simpler.
What is the best viewpoint in the Valley of the Nuns?
Eira do Serrado is the famous viewpoint overlooking Curral das Freiras. There is a short walk from the car park to the viewing platform, and this is the spot you see in most photos of the Valley of the Nuns.
Is the road to the Valley of the Nuns difficult?
The road is steep and winding with plenty of bends and tunnels. Confident drivers will be fine, but if narrow mountain roads make you uneasy, the bus, a taxi or a tour is a better choice.
Final Thoughts on Visiting the Valley of the Nuns
For me, the Valley of the Nuns was all about that first look down from Eira do Serrado. The village itself is quiet and simple, but the setting is what makes the trip special. If you are based in Funchal and want an easy escape into Madeira’s mountain scenery without a long journey, this is a solid half-day out.
If this guide has been helpful, take a look at my article describing my favourite things to do in Funchal, including the wonderful Monte Palace Tropical Garden. Looking for another easy day trip from Funchal? Then get the lowdown on spending an afternoon in Câmara de Lobos.
Finally, if you are travelling alone, here’s my Madeira solo travel guide.
Happy travels!
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.