For many people, Zermatt means one of two things: the Matterhorn and the ski slopes. But there are plenty of things to do in Zermatt if you don’t ski, and I loved every minute of my visit.
This guide is built entirely around what a non-skier can see and do in Zermatt, and none of it means missing out on what makes the town special. The apres-ski scene is open to everyone too, so don’t rule that out either.
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Why Zermatt Works So Well Without Skis
Zermatt is one of the most beautiful towns in Switzerland, and the Matterhorn dominates every view. At 4,478 metres it’s the 12th highest peak in Western Europe, and it’s hard to stop looking at it, whichever angle you catch it from.
Despite decades of tourism, the town has kept its alpine character. The centre is car-free, which makes wandering around a pleasure, though watch out for the small electric taxis that ferry luggage between the station and the hotels. They creep up behind you like silent assassins.
Zermatt’s setting is what makes it though. It’s tucked into the deepest valley in Switzerland, ringed by some of the country’s highest peaks, and a first-rate network of cable cars, mountain railways and walkways means you can get close to them without setting foot on a ski slope.
Best Things to Do in Zermatt for Non-Skiers
1. Ride the Gornergrat Railway
You can admire the Matterhorn’s pyramid peak from Zermatt, but seeing it close up is unforgettable, and the best way to do that is on the Gornergrat Railway. I loved it.
Opened in 1898, this was Switzerland’s first electric rack and pinion line. It climbs 1,484 vertical metres over 5.9 miles from Zermatt to the observation platform at Gornergrat, at just over 3,000 metres, passing through five tunnels and over five bridges and viaducts on the way. The journey takes 33 minutes.
Sit on the right-hand side of the carriage leaving Zermatt for the best Matterhorn views. At the Gornergrat terminus there’s a small tourist centre with shops and a restaurant. Take a break on the terrace, watching the clouds move across the mountain’s spear-like peak, hiding it and then revealing it again.
Refreshed, take a walk around the viewing platform, stopping to admire the Monte Rosa and Gorner glaciers and the Dufourspitze, Switzerland’s highest mountain (4,634 metres).
For the best view of the Matterhorn, take the train one stop to Rotenboden and walk five minutes to Riffelsee. The sight of the near-symmetrical peak reflected in the lake’s mirror-like water is enough to make a grown man, or woman, weep with joy.
From here, follow the hiking trail to the next stop, Riffelberg. Catch the next train to Riffelalp and then hike back to Zermatt, following the signposted path.
Stop for a coffee or something a little stronger at Chämi-Hitta restaurant with its sweeping views and attentive service. From here it’s about an hour’s walk back to Zermatt along woodland paths scattered with pine cones, accompanied by the soundtrack of gurgling mountain streams and distant cowbells.
- The Gornegrat Railway Station in Zermatt is opposite the town’s main railway station.
- Ticket prices are seasonal and reductions are available with a Swiss Travel Pass.
- Priority boarding costs a little extra but lets you board before other passengers and bag the best Matterhorn-facing seat.
- Timetables are also seasonal but reckon on at least one train an hour. Trains are more frequent in autumn and winter.
- Pick up the information sheet at the station, which includes a map, walking suggestions and photo stops.
2. Explore the town of Zermatt
Zermatt was made for strolling. The 16th-century timber buildings lining its streets are home to cafes, restaurants, gift shops and outdoor gear retailers.
Don’t miss the Monte Rosa Hotel, the oldest in Zermatt, which opened in 1855 and is where Edmund Whymper and his party stayed before their Matterhorn ascent. Zermatt Tourism also has an excellent self-guided walking tour on its website.
The Zermatt Tourism office sells an expensive self-guided walking tour on its website.
3. Visit St. Mauritius Church
St. Mauritius Church is Zermatt’s beating spiritual heart. Although there have been more modest places of worship on this site since the 13th century, the current church was consecrated in 1916.
Look up when you go inside. The nave ceiling is decorated with a painting of Noah’s Ark by the Florentine painter Paolo Parente, added during renovations in 1980 to mark the parish’s 700th anniversary.
Thanks to its excellent acoustics, St. Mauritius church also hosts the Zermatt Festival, which takes place each September. Listening to classical music from great composers such as Mozart, Beethoven, and Vivaldi at the foot of the Matterhorn must be a magical experience.
4. Visit the Mountaineers’ Cemetery
The Mountaineers’ Cemetery, in the garden adjacent to St. Mauritius Church, is a sobering reflection on the human cost of climbing the Matterhorn.
The Matterhorn is one of the deadliest mountains in the world. It’s neither the highest nor the hardest climb, yet over 500 people have died attempting it. Around 3,000 people try to summit each year, and although the fatality rate has fallen to roughly five deaths a year, climbers still lose their lives, usually to avalanches or sudden changes in weather.
Several headstones here mark the deaths of Michael Croz, Charles Hudson and Douglas Robert Haddow, three of the four climbers from Edward Whymper’s party who died in 1865. The body of the fourth, Lord Francis Douglas, was never found. Take time to read the inscriptions, some decorated with climbing gear, which record the climbers’ ages and how they died.
5. Visit the Matterhorn Museum (Zermatlantis)
If your appetite for all things Matterhorn has yet to be whetted, pay a visit to the Zermatlantis. This state-of-the-art museum in the town centre uses artefacts, reconstructions and multimedia to provide insight into climbing the mountain and the development of Zermatt.
Unsurprisingly, Whymper’s successful ascent gets some attention and the grim star exhibit is the rope that snapped, plunging four of his party to their deaths.
The opening hours of Zermatlantis are relatively restricted and change seasonally. Check the website for further information. Entrance fee applies.
6. Treat yourself to a spa
Zermatt does pampering well. Even modest hotels tend to have a hot tub and sauna, and after a day of walking, a Jacuzzi with a Matterhorn view takes some beating, ideally with a glass of wine in hand.
Upscale hotels including Spa Hotel Europe, Spa Hotel Hemizeus and Spa Hotel Astoria. open their massage, facial and spa facilities to non-residents for a small charge, though it’s worth checking ahead as some require reservations. Nudity is standard practice in Swiss saunas, so it’s worth reading up on the etiquette before you go.
7. Experience the ultimate comfort food
Zermatt won’t disappoint if you’re here for the food and wine. Here are the dishes to try, arteries be damned:
- Fondue – as Swiss as the Alps. Lumps of bread dipped into rich, gooey cheese must be the ultimate comfort food. Basically a heart attack on a plate but so delicious.
- Raclette – a famous culinary speciality of this region and another cheese-based dish. This time, it’s melted cheese on a plate, served with boiled potatoes and pickles. It is an acquired taste but worth trying if you are in this area.
- Rosti – essentially a giant, deep-fried potato cake.
I had great experiences at these two restaurants in the centre of Zermatt. Both offer good value meals. Restaurant Du Pont is a family-run eatery with a homely feel and great service. Restaurant Stadel is deservedly popular; I spent a very enjoyable evening at the bar there, working through a plate of raclette washed down with local wine
8. The Sunnegga Express
For another angle on the Matterhorn’s symmetry, take the underground funicular from Vispastrasse in Zermatt to Sunnegga-Rothorn. The journey takes under five minutes, and it’s top of my list for a return visit.
9. Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge
This suspension bridge above the Grabengufer looks spectacular in photos, though I gave it a miss myself as I’m not great with heights. Open from July to November, at 494 metres it’s the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in the world, and it’s accessible from Randa train station.
10. Matterhorn Glacier Paradise & Glacier Palace
A lift will carry you to the highest station in Europe, at 3,883 metres on the Klein Matterhorn, for panoramic views of the Matterhorn’s south face and the Italian, French and Swiss Alps beyond. On a clear day you can see as far as the Mediterranean.
The journey takes three cable cars and about 45 minutes in total. The first gondola station is a 20-minute walk from the railway station; follow the signs to Furi, change, then change again at Trockener Steg.
You can check the ticket price here.
The ticket for the Matterhorn glacier paradise also gains you admission to the Glacier Palace. Located 15 metres below the surface of the glacier, this is a winter wonderland of illuminated ice sculptures accessed via a walkway carved into the ice. Wrap up warm.
Plan Your Visit
Getting there & getting around
I visited Switzerland as a solo traveller, travelling to Zermatt on the Glacier Express train from St Moritz. This formed part of a 16-day Interrail trip.
As train travel is expensive in Switzerland, it is well worth weighing up the pros and cons of a European rail pass. Opt for a Eurail pass if you are not a European resident or citizen.
You can check the cost of Interrail and Eurail passes here.
If you are flying into Switzerland, Zermatt is accessible within three hours from both Zurich and Geneva airports. Alternatively, catch the train from Milan.
Zermatt itself is compact enough to be entirely walkable, though electric taxis and bike hire are both available if you need them
Where to stay
Zermatt punches above its weight in terms of accommodation options, many of which have great character.
Mid-range – Hotel Ambiance Superior – I stayed at this friendly hotel, a 10-minute walk from the train station and five minutes from the town centre.
Splurge – Matterhorn Lodge Hotel & Appartments – This classic Alpine hotel is in the centre of Zermatt and has a spa and fitness centre on-site.
Budget – Hotel Bahnhof – Close to the train station, with dorm rooms and private or shared bathrooms
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.
Though you can’t drive your car up to Zermatt, you can ride your bicycle to town. I did this as part of a larger trip in Europe.
Sounds great Rick! I saw many a hardy cyclist in Zermatt sipping a well-deserved glass of beer or wine.