Mull, the second-largest island in the Inner Hebrides, is the stuff of romantic fantasies. Its mountainous core, dominated by the 3,196-foot peak of Ben More, is encircled by 300 miles of coastline, with blinding white sandy coves lapped by emerald waves.
To me, it’s a magical, wildly beautiful place.
Featuring an impossibly picturesque waterfront, framed by rolling hills and leafy woodland, Tobermory is Mull’s biggest settlement. Even if you don’t have a car, Tobermory is an easy day trip from the lovely town of Oban on Scotland’s western coast, and I can say from experience that the ferry journey is almost as good as the destination.
In this article, I’ll share how to get there and the best things to do in Tobermory.
The Best Things to Do in Tobermory
Explore Tobermory harbour
Start with a wander along the main street, browsing the independent shops and stopping for a coffee. With its houses coloured like a box of children’s crayons, reflected in the water, Tobermory is one of the most attractive harbour towns I’ve visited. Yet despite its popularity, it manages to hold onto a real sense of calm and friendliness.
Fun fact: Tobermory shot to fame as the filming location for the children’s TV series Balamory.
Walk to Rubha nan Gall lighthouse
This was the highlight of my day, a straightforward 2 km walk through woodland to the lighthouse at Rubha nan Gall. On one side, there’s a sheer drop to the ocean; a heather-clad bluff rises on the other. After a short initial climb, the path levels off into a gentle wind through the trees.
The views across the Sound of Mull towards Ardnamurchan, with the peak of Ben Hiant fading into the horizon, are sensational. When I visited in late summer, rowan trees in full berry provided occasional splashes of scarlet against the grey sea.
To find the path, walk along the main street until you reach Tobermory Lifeboat Station, then take the signposted path diagonally into the woods.
Visit Tobermory Distillery
Established in 1798, Tobermory’s distillery has a chequered history. It was forced to close three times but is firmly back in business and open for tours and tastings. It’s a great option on a rainy day, which in Scotland you should always plan for.
Visit Mull Aquarium
Tobermory has an aquarium with a difference.
This community-owned venture is a catch-and-release aquarium, the first of its kind in Europe. All marine life you see here is released back into the sea within four weeks.
2026 update: Sadly, the planned redevelopment of Mull Aquarium has been cancelled, and it is not currently operating as a traditional visitor attraction. The information centre and retail space are still operating.
Visit Mull Museum
This tiny room packed with the island’s history is another solid wet-weather option. It’s open Easter to the end of October, Monday to Saturday, 11 am–4 pm. Free entry, donations welcome. You’ll find it on the main street.
Walk to Aros Park
Pick up the walking trail to Aros Park in Ledaig car park, just past Mull Aquarium.
At three miles, it’s a more strenuous outing than the lighthouse walk, but the payoff is excellent. The route follows the coastline east out of Tobermory, with sweeping views over the harbour and the Sound of Mull, passing waterfalls and woodland ferns before arriving at a loch fringed with lily pads.
The park was once a private estate belonging to the Allan family. The house is long gone, but the land is now open to everyone.
Go on a wildlife-watching tour
Tobermory is an excellent place to pick up a sea safari, with boat trips promising opportunities to spot Minke Whales, Harbour Porpoise, eagles, seals and dolphins. Boats leave from next to the main car park.
Sea Life Surveys’ flagship Whalewatch Explorer cruise runs three times a week from April to October.
Take a boat trip to Staffa and Treshnish Isles
Uninhabited Staffa is one of Scotland’s most romantic islands. It is best known for the basalt columns on its southern side, which the sea has carved into dramatic caverns. The most famous of these is Fingal’s Cave.
Treshnish Isles are known for their rich wildlife, particularly seabirds, puffins and seals.
Staffa Tours operates two wildlife boat tours out of Tobermory. A four-hour cruise visits Staffa and Fingal’s Cave; a four-hour whale-watching tour explores the waters between Mull, Ardnamurchan and the Isle of Coll.
Go shopping
Wave goodbye to vanilla chain stores. What you get in Tobermory is a handful of great independent shops.
From illustrated children’s books featuring the famous Tobermory Cat to Scottish knitwear, there’s plenty worth bringing home.
Eat the freshest seafood
I feasted on a pile of fresh-off-the-boat scallops at the Pier Café at the ferry terminal. Its patio is perfect for dining al fresco on a sunny day, the food is fantastic and the prices are very reasonable.
How to get to Tobermory from Oban
Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) runs a ferry from Oban to Craignure on Mull’s east coast. The crossing takes 45–60 minutes. I travelled as a foot passenger on a busy August weekend and had no trouble getting a ticket on the day.
From Craignure, the cheapest onward option is the 95 bus to Tobermory. It doesn’t meet every ferry, so check bus times at West Coast Motors before you go.
Planning a longer trip? Nearby Oban makes an excellent base, and if whisky is your thing, don’t miss the Oban Distillery tour. Fort William is another great addition to a west coast Scotland itinerary, and is easily doable without a car.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.