A Magical Two Days in Oban, Scotland

Oban in Scotland’s Western Highlands is a special place that slowly, almost imperceptibly, cast its spell on me.

As the gateway to the romance of the far-flung Hebridean islands, Oban is both a destination and a starting point. Set in a majestic horseshoe-shaped bay, this Victorian resort is the largest port in northwest Scotland.

The aroma of sea salt blends with that of freshly cooked seafood as you stroll along its breezy promenade. To the horizon, there is a fringe of islands dominated by the mist-capped mountains of Mull.

Oban has stirred the creative juices of artists and composers. The town inspired Mendelsohn to write his Hebrides Overture and it was one of the locations where Turner set up his canvas.  

Prepare to be seduced by this harbour town with this pick of the best things to do in Oban. At the end of this article, you’ll find recommendations for places to eat, where to stay and how to get there.

gull flying over boats in oban harbour

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How I Visited Oban (& Why You Should Too)

I spent four nights in Oban as a solo traveller, allowing me to explore the town and take a day trip to the Isle of Mull. Although Oban is small, it punches above its weight in terms of attractions and two full days was enough time to do the town justice without feeling rushed.


Although Oban is not a well-kept secret, it retains an air of tranquillity, all too rare nowadays. It is perfect for a long weekend break, as a base to explore the western coast of Scotland and the islands or as part of a longer Scotland itinerary. 

If you are a foodie or whisky lover like me, you will love it. Oban is also home to the world-famous Oban Whiskey Distillery and is known as the seafood capital of Scotland.

The Best Things to Do in Oban

1. Travel to Oban on the West Highland Line from Glasgow 

Although not strictly something to do in the town itself, the railway line from Glasgow alone is a good enough reason for visiting Oban.

The West Highland Line is one of the world’s great train journeys, travelling through a landscape of moors, liberally sprinkled with heather, soaring pine forests, lochs and mist-capped mountains. Leaving Glasgow’s suburbs behind you, the train passes the Clyde Estuary on your left.

Continuing north, it skirts around the shore of Loch Lomond and through the Trossachs National Park. At Crianlarich, the line splits.

One branch heads north through the wilderness of Rannoch Moor and onto Fort William and Mallaig. This section of the line between Fort William and Mallaig is also covered by The Jacobite steam train, aka The Harry Potter Train.

For a bucket-list travel experience, book a Club Room on the Caledonian Sleeper train from London.

The western branch passes the mighty Ben Lui, the appropriately named Loch Awe and finally Loch Etive before reaching Oban.

Bag a window seat and enjoy the ride.  

blue exterior of carriage of train considered in caledonian sleeper first class review

2. Refine your whisky palate at the Oban Distillery

Oban is a town that was built around a distillery. How cool is that?

A tour of the whisky distillery is one of the best things to do in Oban

Established in 1794, Oban Distillery is one of the oldest and smallest distilleries in Scotland and produces over a million bottles of Oban single malt whisky each year. If you can’t tell your 14-year-old single malt from your blended whisky, take the excellent one-hour Oban Distillery tour, which costs £22 (2022 price).

I was educated and entertained in equal measure, and sampled two expressions of their delicious single-malt whisky. What’s more, I got to keep the tasting glass!  

3. Visit McCaig’s Tower, Scotland’s Colosseum

Dominating Oban’s skyline is its most famous tourist attraction, a slightly bizarre, unfinished replica of Rome’s Colosseum known as McCaig’s Tower.

arches of mccaigs-tower-oban with bay in background

I love the story behind this structure.

John Stuart McCaig, a philanthropist, commissioned this as a memorial to his family. He intended that its construction would employ local stonemasons during lean economic times.

However, his little piece of Italy in Scotland never reached completion.

A planned 95-foot central tower was never started and only the exterior walls were completed before McCaig died. The instruction in his will for bronze statues of his family to fill the structure’s windows was ignored.

Today, McCaig’s Tower, or McCaig’s Folly as it is known locally, is a walled garden offeringpanoramic views over the Sound of Kerrera and the islands near Oban Bay. Follow the signs for the ten-minute climb from Oban’s George Street to the tower.

Strong calf muscles and a stronger cardiovascular system are mandatory. Entry is free.  

4. Walk up to Pulpit Hill

McCaig’s Tower is not the only viewpoint in town.

Follow the signposted walking trail to Pulpit Hill from the centre of Oban, leading you into the countryside south of the town. At Pulpit Hill, there is a fine viewpoint over Oban and its harbour with McCaig’s Tower in the background.

5. Take the ferry to the Isle of Kerrera

If you continue on this walking trail past Pulpit Hill, you will end up at the Kerrera Ferry.

The Isle of Kerrera is the perfect place to escape from the summer crowds in Oban, exploring its hiking trails, checking out the clifftop ruin of Gylen Castle or spending a few hours on Slatrach Bay, the island’s loveliest sandy beach.

The Kerrera ferry operates year-round, although services are less frequent in winter.

6. Stroll along Oban’s promenade to Dunollie Castle 

Another fantastic thing to do in Oban is to stroll along its broad promenade, breathing in a lungful of salty air whilst taking in the view of Oban Bay and its islands in the distance.

war memorial in oban against deep blue sky
beacon along seafront in oban

Walk north along the promenade toward another of the town’s landmarks, St. Columba’s Cathedral, built between 1932 and 1959. Then stop at the Oban War Memorial before reaching Dunollie Castle.

Home to Clan MacDougall, who ruled over most of Argyll and the Island, these ruins date from the 15th Century. An exhibition at the 1745 House Museum tells the history of Clan MacDougall and the castle.


Dunollie Castle is located at Oban, PA34 5TT. From Oban’s harbour to Dunollie Castle, it’s a pleasant and easy one-mile walk.


7. Indulge your sweet tooth at the Oban Chocolate Company

For a first-class cocoa hit, stop by the Oban Chocolate Company (I bought a few chocolate treats for those back home which were very much appreciated).

The chocolates are all handmade in their small factory in Oban and they also have a cafe.

8. Visit the Oban War and Peace Museum

To find out more about the town’s history, visit the Oban War and Peace Museum, housed in the old Oban Times building, next to the Art Deco Regent Hotel. Although the museum’s collection has a strong local focus, it is also home to some not-so-local exhibits, including a piece of the Berlin Wall.

One of the best things to do in Oban on a rainy day.


The Oban War and Peace Museum is located at the Old Oban Times Building, Corran Esplanade

It is open daily from March until November, 10 am to 4 pm (closes at 2 pm on Fridays)

Admission is free but donations are welcome

red brick art deco exterior of columbia hotel in oban
One of the Art Deco buildings in Oban

9. Take a day trip to Mull 

Taking the ferry to the island of Mull is one of the best things to do in Oban. This is a day trip where the journey is almost as good as the destination, with close-up views of Lismore lighthouse and Ben More (Ben Mor).

lighthouse on mull looking our across bay

Mull is the ultimate Hebridean island fantasy fulfilment.

Catch the bus from the ferry terminal at Craignure to Tobermory, easily one of the most attractive harbour towns in Scotland, if not the UK. Photograph the row of candy-coloured houses, reflected in the still water of the bay, against the backdrop of a steep cliff.

Take the cliffside walk to the lighthouse for sensational views across the bay. And if you’re in the mood for more whisky tasting, visit Tobermory Distillery.  

sea and mountains off mull scotland sea with rowan berries

10. Take a boat trip to Staffa, Iona and Mull (or Treshnish)

To see three islands in one day, join a boat trip from Iona, operated by Staffa Tours.

33 miles west of Oban, uninhabited Staffa is one of Scotland’s most romantic islands. 

It is best known for the basalt columns on its southern side, which the sea has carved into dramatic caverns. The most famous of these is Fingal’s Cave.

Lying barely a mile off the southwest tip of Mull, the sacred isle of Iona has been a mecca for Christian pilgrims for several centuries.

Staffa Tours also operates a day tour to Treshnish, Tobermory and Staffa. The Treshnish Isles are known for their rich wildlife, particularly seabirds, puffins and seals.

11. Go on a sea safari

If wildlife spotting is more your thing, Oban is a great base for boat trips to view whales, porpoises, seals, dolphins, basking sharks, otters, golden and white-tailed sea eagles and more.

Look out for boards advertising boat trips around the harbour or pop into the friendly tourist information office.  

small blue amd white boats in harbour in oban

12. Try sea kayaking

If you are feeling more adventurous, why not try your hand at sea kayaking?

The waters around Oban are perfect for sea kayaking, even if you are a complete beginner. Sea Kayak Oban offers day trips and two and five-day courses.

Most of their trips launch from the beach in Oban, 50m from their base on Argyll Street. Check their website for further information and prices.

13. Explore Oban Harbour

There are few better things to do in Oban than to stroll around its harbour.


By day, boats and ferries go about their business. By night, the illuminated McCaig’s Tower provides a dramatic backdrop.

Any time of day, locals and visitors alike walk along the waterfront, stopping to eat their fish & chips or ice cream on one of the benches

14. Eat the best seafood in Scotland 

For all you foodies out there, Oban is seafood paradise. In addition to a few highly-rated fish and chip shops, there are some excellent seafood restaurants and stalls alongside the harbour.

boats in oban harbour

My Favourite Places to Eat in Oban

Here are a few eating places that I tried and can recommend.

MacGillivray’s Seafood  

Operating out of a van parked by the harbour, McGillivray’s serve melt-in-the-mouth fresh seafood and fish.

Order at the counter, sit at one of the wooden benches and they’ll call you when your order is ready. I feasted on a pile of langoustines with chips and salad which came to £10. They don’t have an alcohol licence but do serve soft drinks. 

Waterfront Fishouse Restaurant  

For great service, harbour views and an early-evening bargain menu, head to the Waterfront Fishouse next to the CalMac ferry terminal.

They offer a lunchtime and early-bird two-course set menu. Their mussels were the sweetest and freshest I have ever had, and the entrée of rainbow trout served on a pesto risotto was simply sublime. 

Julie’s Coffee House 

If you need to satisfy a sweet tooth, here’s a bonus eating recommendation. 

Julie’s Coffee House, opposite the Oban Distillery, serves deliciously decadent white chocolate and raspberry scones as well as many other calorie-busting goodies.  

Where to Stay

As a tourist hub, Oban is not short of places to stay. However, these do get booked up quickly during the peak summer season. 

When I booked, availability was limited and I ended up at the Royal Hotel, one of the town’s Victorian hotels. This is the epitome of (very) faded grandeur. However, it has friendly, helpful staff and offers a free, generous buffet breakfast. 


aerial view of streets in oban town centres
Oban town centre from my room at the Royal Hotel

Here are some other places that I have found that are good choices if you are visiting Oban: 


Premier Inn – I love a good Premier Inn and, in all honesty, if I had known that one had opened in Oban I would have chosen to stay there. For me, this chain strikes just the right balance between price point and product and its breakfasts are one of the best out there.

Oban’s Premier Inn is adjacent to the train station. 



Glenbervie Guest House – In an excellent location on Oban’s seafront, this guesthouse has excellent reviews. 



Oban Youth Hostel – Budget accommodation is hard to come by in Oban but this hostel is a great option. Located on the seafront, it has laundry, kitchen and lounge facilities.


>>> None of these places take your fancy? Click here for other great places to stay in Oban.

How to Get to Oban

I travelled to Oban by train.

From London to Glasgow Central on the line formally operated by Virgin Trains (now Avanti West Coast), and then taking the West Highland Line from Glasgow Queen Street. The journey from Glasgow takes just over three hours and costs from £20 one-way.

Book train tickets in advance for the cheapest tickets.  

Services do not run frequently and can be busy. Neglect to reserve a seat at the time of buying your ticket at your peril.

If you are driving, the quickest route will take you around 2.5 hours from Glasgow. Of course, longer and more scenic routes are available.

Solo Travel in Scotland

Scotland is not only one of Europe’s best places to travel alone but is also one of the best solo travel destinations in the world.

From its lush rolling hills and mirror-like lakes to its blindingly white beaches, Scotland is home to some of the most striking and diverse landscapes to be found anywhere. It’s a walker’s and photographer’s paradise.

Scotland is relatively safe, the locals are very friendly and speak English. There is a wide variety of accommodation, from a thriving hostel scene and cosy bed & breakfasts to boutique and castle hotels.

It’s easy to get around. Whilst driving is the easiest way to explore Scotland, this is not for the faint-hearted. Some roads in the Highlands and Islands are single lanes punctuated with passing places that you can pull into if necessary.

I travelled in Scotland without a car and managed just fine using buses, trains and day tours.

Scotland’s major towns and cities are linked by train and bus (Scottish Citylink runs long-distance express coach services).

I also joined day trips with the local Rabbie’s Tours who were excellent. Group sizes are small and the knowledge and humour of their drivers/guides are first-rate.

And that’s a wrap!

I hope that this guide helps you to have the best time in this magical town. If you are looking for more Scotland travel inspiration and information, take a look at these articles before you go:

bridget coleman the flashpacker 2

About Bridget

Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.

Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.

To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.

8 thoughts on “A Magical Two Days in Oban, Scotland

  1. Raymond Andersson says:

    I lived in oban for 6 years, i am from sweden, i worked at a place, called McTavishes kitchen and i love oban, scottland and the SCOTTISH PEOPLE, i am 75 years old now but i hope to go there one more time before i’m planted, long live scottland.

    • Bridget says:

      I’ll keep my fingers crossed that you are able to return. I’m going back to Scotland next month. Not Oban this time but I’m sure I’ll return. It’s a beautiful country.

  2. James says:

    You appear to have a typo saying “Loch London” rather than Loch Lomond.

  3. Donald Thompson says:

    I live in Oban and can assure you that isn’t Ben More (sic). There are a few hills called Ben Mor ( which means big hill in Gaelic) on Mull and in Crianlarich to name but 2. But not in Oban.

    • Bridget says:

      Thank you for taking the time and effort to comment. That’s most helpful and I have amended the offending sentence. There are multiple references to Ben More on Mull which I have retained, albeit with (Ben Mor) added for completeness. Can’t beat local knowledge!

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