Haarlem is easy to love. This quintessentially Dutch has medieval streets, canals to wander and world-class museums, and it’s just 20 minutes by train from Amsterdam, which makes it a great base.
II spent four nights here, using it as a jumping-off point for a day trip to Zuid-Kennemerland National Park. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover or simply exploring somewhere new, here is my pick of the best things to do in Haarlem.
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How Long Do You Need in Haarlem?
If you’re short on time, a day trip from Amsterdam will cover the main sights: Grote Markt, the Frans Hals Museum and a canal tour. I’d recommend two days if you can manage it, which gives you time for extras like the excellent Teylers Museum.
I spent a relaxed four nights at the wonderful Malts Hotel, using Haarlem as a base for a day at the beach, before moving on to the underrated beach town of Ostend. From there, I spent a weekend in Lille, then home to London by train, using an Interrail Pass.
Suggested Haarlem Day Trip Itinerary
If you only have one day, don’t try to do too much. This rough order works well:
Haarlem is compact and easy to cover on foot, so adjust the order to your own pace.
Avoid Mondays, when many attractions close. If St. Bavo Church is a priority, skip Sundays too.
One thing worth knowing before you set off: Haarlem has two churches called St. Bavo. St. Bavo Church (Grote Kerk) sits on Grote Markt and is Protestant. St. Bavo’s Cathedral is a separate Catholic building nearby. I’ve covered both below.
Best Things to Do in Haarlem
1. Grote Markt
Market Square is Haarlem’s centrepiece, where ten streets meet at a pedestrianised square (watch for cyclists) lined with the city’s landmark buildings. These include the 14th-century Town Hall and the Meat Market (Vleeshal), a Flemish Renaissance building now used for modern art.
A statue of L.J. Coster, credited by Haarlemers with inventing modern printing, watches over the square. Take that, Gutenberg.
2. St. Bavo Church (Grote Kerk
This 15th-century Gothic church dominates Grote Markt and is known for its enormous 18th-century pipe organ, played for Handel and Mozart.
Look out for a replica of Foucault’s Pendulum and the Dog Whipper’s Chapel, named after a carving of a man disciplining an unruly dog, once a real job in the Middle Ages
The choir is a masterpiece of medieval craftsmanship and the final resting place of Frans Hals, Haarlem’s favourite son. At either end of the barrier are carvings known as the pillar biters, said to depict overly devout worshippers whose home lives fell rather short of holy.
This is the only church I have visited with a café in one of its chapels. Another fun fact: the floor of Grote Kerk is made up entirely of about 1500 gravestones.
3. Canal cruise
My guesthouse hosts recommended this excellent canal cruise. Over 75 minutes, we were taken on a relaxing journey along Haarlem’s river and canals with plenty of history and entertainment along the way.
I went with Haarlem Canal Tours, which operate cruises 3 – 5 times a day, Tuesday to Sunday from April to November. They set off from Spaarne, Haarlem’s oldest open canal, and the cruise includes the scenic Bakenessergracht, the Singels (the city moats) and Nieuwe Gracht (New Canal).
You can find out more information and book your cruise here.
4. Frans Hals Museum
I’m a fan of art museums and can honestly say this is one of the best I’ve visited. I spent three hours here.
Frans Hals (1582 – 1666) the leading portrait painter of the 17th-century Dutch Golden Age, known for his realistic depictions of ordinary people. In this museum, you are eyeball-to-eyeball with Haarlemers of the past; brewers and preachers, soldiers and housewives.
Not every painting here is by Hals, and works are hung thematically (Mannerism, nudes, Haarlem itself). His Civil Guard paintings, shown together in one room, are the standout.
Your visit opens with a 15-minute introductory film, and an audioguide is included with your ticket. I had lunch in the museum’s courtyard café, under a wisteria tree.
5. Teylers Museum
This was another highlight of my trip, and the oldest museum in the Netherlands,. It’s a good one if you like science and natural history.
Established in 1784, Teylers Museum holds an extensive collection of fossils, scientific instruments, books, drawings and coins, displayed in old-fashioned wooden cases with typewritten labels I found strangely lovely.
The museum exists because of Pieter Teyler (1702-1778), a wealthy Haarlem merchant. He believed that spreading knowledge of art and science would build a better society, and left money in his will to build it.
The largest flatplate electrostatic generator in the world is the collection’s pride and joy.
Teyler’s original collection is housed in the beautiful Oval Room, a glass cabinet with gemstones at its centre.
Rooms throughout have been restored with period furnishings, and there’s another good café.
6. De Adriaan Windmill
This old-time windmill is worth a peek. It is close to the train station (and you can jump off the canal cruise boat here).
But appearances can be deceptive. It is a 2002 replica of a windmill that burnt down in 1932. I skipped climbing the vertiginous stairs to the top.
7. Bakenessergracht
Running from the Spaarne to the Nieuwe Gracht, Bakenessergracht is one of Haarlem’s prettiest canals. This serene waterway is lined with trees and traditional Dutch buildings and is crossed by three bridges: the Wildemansbrug, Begijnebrug and the Korte Jansbrug. It’s good for a slow wander.
8. The Hofjes
Hofjes are courtyards surrounded by almshouses, built to house poor, unmarried or widowed women by wealthy residents hoping for a place in heaven in return.
There are 21 across Haarlem and most are free to visit between 10 am and 5 or 6 pm, Monday to Saturday. I peeked inside Teylershofje (Koudenhorn 64), Proveniershuis (Grote Houtstraat 142D) and Hofje van Bakenes (Wijde Appelaarsteeg 11F), the oldest of the bunch, established in 1395.
In case you’re wondering, to be eligible for a place in one of these Hofje you need to be a woman over 60 who has lived in Haarlem for at least six years.
9. Corrie ten Boom House
The ten Boom family sheltered Dutch Jews here during WWII, a story told in Corrie ten Boom’s book The Hiding Place, made into a film in 1975. The house can only be visited on a one-hour guided tour, Tuesday to Saturday, and you’ll need to book at least five days ahead here.
10. St. Bavo’s Cathedral
Haarlem’s second St. Bavo, this Catholic cathedral was mostly built between 1895 and 1906, replacing the original Sint-Bavokerk after it turned Protestant in 1578. It’s designed as a series of distinct spaces, and the modern stained glass lets in plenty of light. Look out for the Mary Window, the Blessed Sacrament Chapel, the tiles in St. Aloysius Chapel and the baptistery.
Climb the tower for panoramic views of Haarlem’s streets and canals. It’s not a strenuous climb, but you might need to think twice if you are claustrophobic.
There’s also an interesting small museum, detailing the history of the cathedral, and an adjoining café.
11. Haarlem’s markets
If you like mooching around markets, you’re in for a treat. The biggest and best-known market is held in Grote Markt on Mondays and Saturdays, selling all manner of things from loaves of bread to tasty trinkets.
I liked the smaller flea market on Botermarkt. It operates on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, each day having a different focus.
12. Sample the local brew at Jopen
This unique brewery inside an old church serves around twenty beers, displayed on menus on giant screens. Choose your brew and size – 15cl, 25cl or 50cl – and your friendly water will bring it to your table. Non-alcoholic beers are also available.
Jopen is at Gedempte Voldersgracht 2 and also offers a small selection of light bites.
13. Haarlem’s prettiest streets
Haarlem has plenty of picturesque streets, including the Golden Streets (Gouden Straatjes) near Grote Markt, the main shopping area. I’m not much of a shopper, so I preferred the quieter streets away from the crowds, Kerkstraat and Korte Houtstraat among them.
14. Nieuwe Kerk (New Church)
This 17th-century church on Nieuwe Kerksplein is one of the most important Protestant churches in the Netherlands. Nieuwe Kerk was the first stone Protestant church in Haarlem, and its boxy design is complemented by an ornate tower by Lieven de Key.
15. Take a day trip to the beach
My day trip to South Kennemerland National Park (National Park Zuid-Kennemerland) was a highlight of my time in the area. Expect hiking and cycling trails, dunes, forest and lakes.
It’s an easy day out from Haarlem. I caught bus #81 to the Koevlak entrance and followed the marked trail, stopping for lunch at Bloomingdale Beach before the bus back.
>> FIND OUT MORE: Day Trip to Zuid-Kennemerland National Park from Haarlem
Tips for Planning Your Visit
Getting there
Trains from Amsterdam Central Station take about 20 minutes, and Haarlem Train Station is a short walk from the town centre. Buses 80 and 346 also connect the two cities.
Where to stay
I cannot recommend Malts Hotel highly enough. Henk & Annemarie treat their guests like old friends and are delighted to share their wealth of local knowledge.
It is centrally located and my room was large, airy and comfortable. The breakfasts with proudly sourced local produce were excellent, and there was an honesty bar and tea and coffee in the kitchen.
Here are a few alternatives if this doesn’t meet your needs:
B&B Het Hart van Haarlem: a centrally located bed and breakfast, one room with a kitchenette.
RiverSide Suite: a good option for river views, with breakfast available for an extra charge
Where to eat
Here are places I ate in Haarlem and liked:
Restaurant Zuidam (Scheepmakersdijk 2A): Located next to the windmill overlooking the river. Take a seat on the terrace and enjoy the view.
Ti Bisou Crêpes Boutique (Korte Houtstraat 4): I had a lovely lunch at this small and friendly restaurant that specialises in crêpes
The Golden Bull (Zijlstraat 39): Service was a little slow at this steakhouse, but it was friendly and the steak was superb.
Miyagi and Jones (Zijlstraat 56-58): This trendy restaurant next to the Malts Hotel serves small plates of Asian fusion food.
Where to next?
Whether you spend a day in Haarlem or a week, I hope this article helps you nail the best things to see. Before you leave, take a look at some of my other Netherlands guides:
- What to Do in Delft in One Day
- A Self-Guided Walking Tour of Leiden
- One Day in Rotterdam
- Top 10 Tips for Visiting Keukenhof Gardens
Happy travels!
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.