You won’t find Collioure on many France itineraries, and that’s exactly why it’s worth going. This small town on the Roussillon coast is a quieter alternative to the busier resorts along the Côte d’Azur and Costa Brava, and one of my favourite places in the south of France.
I first visited Collioure on a day trip from Canet-en-Roussillon back in the mid-1980s. It took me nearly forty years to return, this time staying four nights, and I fell for the place all over again.
Here’s why Collioure deserves a spot on your itinerary, the best things to do while you’re there, and how to get there, where to stay and where to eat.
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Why Collioure is Known as the City of Painters
Occupying a picturesque cove, Collioure is a historic beach village, refreshingly unspoiled by tourism. Also known as “The City of Painters”, thanks to an artistic legacy that goes back over a century.
In the early 1900s, Henri Matisse and André Derain made Collioure their summer base, and the light that drew the Fauvists here still pulls in painters today. The pastel houses of the old quarter are full of galleries, and it’s common to see easels set up along the harbour.
Beyond its artistic charm, Collioure is a magnet for foodies, serving some of the best anchovies on the planet.
The Best Things to Do in Collioure
1. Explore the Château Royal
Even if castles aren’t usually your thing, I’d still recommend this one. I spent an easy hour walking the ramparts and bastions, and the views over Collioure from up there are worth the entrance fee alone.
It is, in fact, an amalgamation of four castles.
The Knights Templars founded the original castle in the early 13th century. The Kings of Majorca built a second castle during the 13th and 14th centuries, which they used as their part-time residence.
In the 16th century, the Spanish Habsburgs turned the castle into a modern fortress. After the Spanish surrendered to Louis XIII’s troops in 1642, the castle passed to the French, and Vauban later remodelled it into a Bourbon citadel.
2. Nurture your artistic soul at Musée d’Art Moderne
This Collioure attraction is best for fans of modern and contemporary art.
Collioure’s Musée d’Art Moderne is housed in Villa Pams on the eastern edge of the village, a five-minute walk uphill from the port. As well as a permanent collection, the museum hosts several temporary exhibitions each year.
3. Wander the Old Quarter, Le Mouré
Collioure’s artistic tradition has its heart in Le Mouré, its old quarter, once home to fishermen and naval officers.
Don’t confine yourself to the streets, lined with restaurants and shops, behind the lovely harbour. I kept climbing through the maze of steep, narrow streets, past sherbet-coloured houses, draped in vibrant bougainvillaea and plumbago, until I reached Rue de la Carranque. Immortalised by Matisse and Derain, the fathers of Fauvism, it’s one of the most photographed streets in Collioure
4. Pay your respects at Église Notre Dame des Anges
On the north side of the harbour lies Collioure’s spiritual heart. The 17th-century Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges replaced the ancient Sainte-Marie, which was razed on the orders of Vauban.
Its round bell tower once doubled as the lighthouse and has been reconstructed many times, thanks to damage by storms and war. The base dates from the 13th century, whereas the bell chamber is from the 19th century.
Although the church’s interior is a little gloomy, it’s worth stepping inside to see the magnificent gilded retable, carved and painted in three tiers by Joseph Sunyer. You’ll need to pop a euro in the slot at the side of the main altar to see it lit up
5. Tantalise your taste buds
Collioure takes its food seriously.
As the anchovy capital of this coast, there is no shortage of opportunities to sample this fishy, salty delicacy. The best places to buy anchovies in Collioure are Maison Desclaux and Anchois Roque.
For sweeter treats, pop into Le Croquant de Collioure. This small bakery is the place to try and buy croquants – crunchy French biscuits – and macaroons.
6. Taste local wines at Le Cellier Dominicain
When in France, it would be almost rude not to taste local wines. The best place to go wine tasting in Collioure is the Dominican Cellar.
The cellar of Le Dominicain, a wine cooperative founded in 1926, is housed in the 13th-century Couvent des Dominicains. Friendly and informative staff will allow you to taste their wines for free.
I tried one white wine, a young red and an oak-aged red. All were fabulous.
Opening hours are seasonal and they close for lunch. Check here.
7. Hike up to the Windmill of Collioure and La Gloriette
This is a heart-pumping hike but worthwhile.
From the Musée d’Art Moderne, take the steep steps that wind through a cactus garden to Moulin de la Cortina. This 14th-century windmill was used to grind grain until the 19th century. It was restored in the 2000s and is now used to produce olive oil.
From here, I was treated to views of boats bobbing in the harbour and the terraced vineyards surrounding Collioure. For a spectacular view over the Bay of Collioure, follow the path to the right to La Gloriette viewpoint.
8. Take in the view from Fort Saint-Elme
If it’s more views – and a robust cardiovascular workout – you are after, head further up the hill to Fort St-Elme.
This was built between 1538 and 1552 by Charles V to defend his Spanish Empire from the French. It is now home to a museum with medieval and Renaissance arms collections.
July 2026 update: Fort St-Elme is closed for renovation
9. Hike along the coast from Collioure to Argelès Plage
One of my favourite things I did in Collioure was walking the coastal path to Argelès. For most of the route the path hugs the coastline, with views across the Gulf of Lion. There’s more information on the route here.
Covering a distance of around four miles, I would grade this walk as easy-moderate. The terrain is mostly steps or good paths, but there are some uneven surfaces and it is undulating.
Come prepared. Wear suitable footwear and bring a hat and water. Except for a restaurant at Plage D’Oueill near the start of the walk, there is nowhere to eat and no toilets.
I finished the walk at Port Argelès instead of continuing to Argelès Plage. From here, it was around 30 minutes to the train station at Argelès for the short journey back to Collioure.
10. Relax on one of Collioure’s beaches
Collioure’s beaches are mostly stony rather than sandy, but the views make up for it. From north to south:
Plan Your Visit
When to visit Collioure
Although Collioure is a year-round destination, visit in early summer and autumn for reliable weather and fewer crowds. When I visited in early September, the weather was balmy and crowds were thin.
Avoid July and August if possible. This is when the masses descend on the village and prices are higher. If you are driving, parking can be tricky.
Winter is quieter but cooler and some businesses may shut or have reduced opening hours.
How to get there
Collioure is in the Occitanie region of southern France on the Vermilion Coast (Côte Vermeille), close to the border with Spain. The Roussillon city of Perpignan is around 16 miles to the north.
I reached Collioure is by train. The village is on the line between Perpignan and Port-Bou. From Perpignan, it’s a 20-minute journey. In the summer, there are more than 10 trains a day. It will take you ten minutes to walk from the train station to the centre of Collioure.
Collioure is also served by bus 540 from Avignon and bus 541 from Port-Vendres, operated by liO Occitanie. Buses stop at the central car park, Les Glacis, off Av du Général-de-Gaulle.
The closest airport to Collioure is Perpignan-Rivesaltes, which serves domestic and European destinations
Where I stayed (plus a few alternatives)
As Collioure is small, accommodation is limited, so book ahead.
I stayed at Hôtel Madeloc, a 3-star hotel just up the hill from the station and a ten-minute walk into town. My room was spacious and spotless, with a fabulous terrace looking out at the mountains, and breakfast and staff were both excellent. There’s a rooftop pool if that’s your kind of thing, and private parking on site, which is prized in Collioure.
Les Appartements de Collioure are affordable 4-star apartments with well-equipped kitchens, close to the beaches, with on-site parking.
Les Suites de Collioure is a 4-star hotel near Port Avall Beach with consistently strong reviews. Every suite has a kitchenette, and there’s a two-bedroom apartment with a washing machine if you need more space and facilities.
Where to eat
I dined like a king in Collioure. Two places stood out:
L’Escale Bleu (1 Avenue Gén de Gaulle) is a small, unpretentious spot away from the main tourist strip, serving excellent fresh fish. It’s run by a husband-and-wife team, and the chef came out to speak to us, which I’ve rarely experienced elsewhere.
Casa Leon (2 rue Riere), close to the harbour, is another good option for fish. Try the chorizo and calamari
Collioure surprised me twice over, once in the 1980s and again nearly forty years later, and I suspect it’ll do the same for you.
For more of this corner of France, have a look at my guide to the Red City of Albi, the Pink City of Toulouse – it’s all about colours! – and what I thought about Carcassonne. Finally, find out why you should add the Roman treasures of Nîmes to your itinerary.
Happy travels!
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.