Most people end up in Chur (pronounced ‘Koor’) because of a train. The Bernina Express starts or finishes here, the Glacier Express runs through here, and the Swiss rail network uses it as a hub for the whole of Graubünden.
I was no different: I arrived from Tirano at the end of a Bernina Express journey, onward ticket to Dijon via Basel booked for two mornings later.
What I didn’t expect was to enjoy Chur as much as I did. It’s the oldest city in Switzerland, settled for more than 5,000 years, and the old town reflects that history. As it is compact and walkable, a single day is all you need to cover the main sights comfortably on foot.
Here’s my pick of the best things to do in Chur.
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Before You Start: Pick Up Your Guest Card
If you’re staying overnight, ask your hotel for the Chur Guest Card on arrival. Most participating hotels include it automatically.
The card gives you unlimited free travel on the local bus network, free entry to the main museums, one free swim at a public pool and 50% off the Brambrüesch cable car. Given that Switzerland is not a budget destination, these savings add up quickly over one or two days.
Best Things to Do in Chur
Wander the Old Town (Altstadt)
The old town is car-free and takes perhaps 20 minutes to walk end to end. Its streets are narrow and irregular, lined with painted facades, guild houses and small squares. Signs on the walls point towards the main sights, but I recommend ignoring them occasionally and taking a side alley to see where it leads.
The Obertor, a 14th-century tower on the Plessur river, marks the old town’s edge and is a natural starting point. From there, the main pedestrian street runs up towards Arcas, a pretty square that is a good place to stop for coffee.
When I visited on a Saturday the old town was buzzy in a good way, with locals chatting over coffee in pavement cafes. There was a surprisingly good tourist-oriented market near the Rathaus, children selling previously-loved toys and games on Poststrasse, and a vibrant flower market in Kornplatz.
💡 Chur has a mild microclimate relative to the mountains around it, thanks to the warm Föhn wind. Even in spring or early autumn, it can feel noticeably warmer than you’d expect at this altitude.
Chur Cathedral (Dom St. Maria Himmelfahrt)
The Cathedral of the Assumption towers over the old town from the Bishop’s Court, a fortified complex that feels like a small town of its own. The first church on this site was built in the 5th century; the Romanesque structure you see now was completed in 1272 after more than a century of construction.
The standout piece is the late-Gothic winged altar by Jakob Russ of Ravensburg, carved in 1492. But I also loved the expressive figures carved on the capitals
Opening hours depend on the day of the week but the cathedral is generally open daily between 8 am and 7pm, except during mass. Entry is free.
Alongside the cathedral is the Cathedral Treasure Museum, a two-floor collection of religious art and objects spanning more than a millennium. I didn’t have time to visit but it’s included with the Guest Card and maybe worth a peek if medieval craftsmanship is your thing.
St Martin’s Church (Martinskirche)
St Martin’s clock tower and spire are visible throughout the old town. The church originated the 8th century but was rebuilt in the late-Gothic style. The interior is much plainer than the Cathedral, but the stained-glass windows by Augusto Giacometti are worth a look.
Chur’s Museums
Three other museums in Chur are covered by the Guest Card, and between them they’re a good way to fill a rainy afternoon or a morning before a train.
Rätisches Museum (Rhaetian Museum) is perhaps the most interesting of the three for a general visitor. Housed in a 17th-century patrician house, it covers 5,000 years of regional history through archaeological finds, medieval artefacts, Bronze Age jewellery and Roman-era pieces.
Signage is in German but there are (very) detailed English-language information booklets in each room. Allow 45 minutes to an hour, more if you are a history buff.
Bündner Kunstmuseum (Art Museum) is the one to go for if you are an art lover. Occupying a striking building combining a historic villa with a modern glass extension, its collection focuses on Graubünden artists, most notably the Giacometti family, and includes works by Alberto Giacometti alongside pieces by Angelika Kauffmann and Ernst Ludwig Kirchner. Budget for one hour.
Naturmuseum Graubünden (Natural History Museum) is the most compact of the three, with interactive exhibits on the region’s wildlife and geology. I didn’t manage to visit, but from what I can tell it’s well suited to families or anyone with an interest in Alpine natural history.
Street Art
I was delighted to discover Chur is a hub for urban art, largely driven by the internationally renowned street artist Fabian Florin (alias “BANE“). The city is home to over fourteen major murals, “legal walls” for open expression, and hosts the annual Wand Festival.
You can easily find the murals on a self-guided walk using the interactive map on the Street Art Cities platform, although I just found them as I was wandering around.
The murals are just one expression of Chur’s artistic character. The city is also the birthplace of H.R. Giger, whose Oscar-winning designs for Alien made him one of Switzerland’s most recognisable artists. A plaque marks his birthplace in Gigerplatz, and the Giger Bar, around a ten-minute walk from the old town, is a pilgrimage site for sci-fi fans.
Cable Car to Brambrüesch
As lovely as the old town is, this was my favourite thing to do in Chur.
The Brambrüesch gondola runs directly from the city centre up to a plateau at 1,595 metres, and takes about 15 minutes. It’s a journey of two parts: a large cable car takes you to the first stage from where a smaller 4-person gondola whisks you to the summit. At the plateau, there’s a small information centre, a clean toilet and a few restaurants
In summer this is a starting point for hiking trails, including a route to the Dreibündenstein at 2,160 metres where the old boundaries of three Swiss cantons once met. In winter there’s skiing, snowshoeing and a long toboggan run at nearby Pradaschier.
I followed a mostly tarmac path uphill to Malixer Alp, around a 45-minute walk. The view of the Rhine Valley below, ringed by Alpine peaks, was ample reward for the huffing and puffing.
The cable car runs year-round, with some gaps for maintenance. Check the current timetable before you go, as operating hours vary by season. The Guest Card gives 50% off the return ticket (standard adult return in 2026 is CHF 32).
💡 The cable car station is in Chur West, not the old town. Take bus 1, 3 or 4 from the town centre, or walk in about 20 minutes. The Guest Card covers the bus.
Where to Eat in Chur
Graubünden has its own food culture, distinct from the rest of Switzerland, and Chur is a good place to try it. The signature dishes are capuns (chard-wrapped dumplings filled with dried meat and herbs, served in a cream and bacon sauce), pizokel (buckwheat dumplings, similar to the Valtellina’s pizzoccheri) and a range of air-dried meats from the region’s mountain valleys.
For an inexpensive and reliably good meal, Toni’s Pasta serves straightforward pasta at fair prices. It was my dinner spot on night one.
For something more traditionally Swiss, Zunfthaus zur Rebleuten is the better option. It’s a former guild house with a dining room that’s been feeding people for centuries.
I tried Züri Gschäzlets, tender slices of veal served with rosti, followed by a local cheese board. Book ahead in the evening.
💡 Swiss restaurants typically serve lunch until around 2pm and dinner from 6pm. Afternoon kitchens close, and some smaller places don’t open at all on Mondays or Tuesdays. Check before you go.
Where to Stay in Chur
I stayed at the ABC Swiss Hotel, which was comfortable, friendly and well-placed for both the station and the old town. It’s not the most characterful option in the city, but the location makes it practical for an early Bernina or Glacier Express departure, and the staff were so helpful with local tips.
For more character, Zunfthaus zur Rebleuten also has rooms above the restaurant, putting you in the heart of the old town. Bogentrakt Hostel, a stylishly converted former prison (yes, really), is a good option if you want something more budget-friendly and don’t mind the novelty of the setting.
Moving on from Chur
Chur is one of the best-connected rail hubs in Switzerland.
To Zurich: Direct intercity trains run roughly twice an hour and take about 75 minutes. No reservation needed.
The Bernina Express to Tirano: The Bernina Express runs from Chur south through the Albula Valley to St. Moritz and then over the Bernina Pass to Tirano in northern Italy. Reservation is mandatory and seats sell out, especially in summer.
St. Moritz by local train: If you want the Albula line scenery without the Bernina Express supplement, regular RhB trains run hourly from Chur to St. Moritz in around two hours, passing the Landwasser Viaduct and through the Albula Tunnel.
I’ve written a full guide to doing the Bernina Express route on local trains if you’re planning this journey.
The Glacier Express to Zermatt: The Glacier Express runs from Chur west through the Rhine Gorge and over the Oberalp Pass to Zermatt. It takes over six hours and is a very different landscape from the Bernina route: drier, more rugged, with the Matterhorn as its final punctuation mark. Again, reservation is mandatory.
I’ve written this guide to the Glacier Express.
Further Reading
- Glacier Express: The Complete Guide
- Travelling the Bernina Route on Local Trains
- Bernina Express vs Glacier Express: Which Should You Ride?
- What to Do in Tirano, Italy
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.