Chambéry was never meant to be more than a stopover.
I was on a three-week Interrail trip and needed somewhere to break the journey from Lyon down to Turin. I picked Chambéry more or less at random, because it sat conveniently on the route and had good connections.
It turned out to be one of the better decisions of the whole trip.
The old capital of Savoy is small enough to explore in a single afternoon, with a compact centre of pastel buildings, covered passageways and squares that never feel overrun.
I ended up staying three nights, using Chambéry as a base for day trips to Annecy and Aix-les-Bains as well as exploring the town itself. This guide covers everything I did there, including the things I’d tell a friend not to skip, plus where I ate and where I stayed.
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Chambéry: The Old Seat of Savoy Power
Chambéry was the capital of the Duchy of Savoy for close to three centuries, from the 13th century until the dukes eventually moved their court to Turin. That history is written all over the old town.
The Château des Ducs de Savoie still looms over the centre, the coats of arms and heraldic symbols crop up on doorways and fountains, and the street pattern still follows the medieval layout laid down when this was the seat of a European power rather than a quiet regional city.
Understanding that backdrop makes the rest of your visit click into place: the castle, the cathedral and the grand old buildings around Les Halles all belonged to a city that once mattered a great deal more than its current size suggests.
Things to Do in Chambéry
Follow the elephant trail
Pick up a free map from the tourist information office and follow the parcours des éléphants, a self-guided walking route marked with small brass elephant medallions set into the pavement.
The trail loops through the old town and takes around two hours at an easy pace, It’s the best way to get your bearings on your first day.
These were my favourite stops:
- The Elephant Fountain (Fontaine des Éléphants), built in 1838 in honour of General de Boigne, a local man who made his fortune in India and left much of it to the city.
- Rue Basse du Château, a narrow, arcaded street running below the castle, lined with old townhouses, and containing the town’s last aerial passage.
- The alleys, like Lyon’s traboules, these corridors allowed people to pass between buildings.
- The clock tower murals, a set of painted facades celebrating the town’s history
- The Hôtel de Ville, Chambéry’s town hall, fronted by a grand square.
- Les Halles, the covered market, good for a coffee stop or to pick up something for lunch.
- The Palais de Justice, an imposing 19th-century courthouse that was the last building erected while Savoy still formed part of the Kingdom of Sardinia-Piedmont.
- The cathedral, which anchors the middle of the trail (more on that below).
Walked together as a route, these sights build a picture of the town, and following the little bronze markers underfoot is an easy and fun way to explore.
Les Halles, Chambéry
Rue Basse du Château- One of Chambéry’s alleys
Chambéry Cathedral and its cloisters
The Cathédrale Saint-François-de-Sales has one of the largest painted trompe-l’oeil ceilings in Europe, and it’s worth stepping inside just for that. What most visitors miss, though, is the cloister tucked beside it.
It’s quiet, largely untouched by the crowds outside, and gives a much better sense of how old this part of the city really is. I’d allow twenty minutes for the cathedral and cloister combined, longer if you like architecture or want to sit for a while (there are tables and chairs here to do just that).
Musée des Beaux-Arts
Chambéry’s fine arts museum punches above its weight for a city this size, with a decent collection of Italian Renaissance and Baroque painting reflecting the city’s long ties with Turin and the Savoy court on the other side of the Alps.
It’s not a huge collection, so an hour is plenty. The museum is free to visit and closed on Mondays.
Château des Ducs de Savoie
As the castle that gave Chambéry its status is now partly occupied by regional government offices, you can’t wander around freely. One-hour afternoon guided tours take you around the parts you can visit, including the Sainte-Chapelle (in French only).
But even from the outside, the scale of the place makes clear why this was once the base of a duchy that stretched across both sides of the Alps.
Walk to Les Charmettes, House of Jean-Jacques Rousseau
If you fancy getting out of the old town for an hour, walk up to Les Charmettes, the country house where Jean-Jacques Rousseau lived from 1736 to 1742.
It’s about an hour’s walk uphill from the town centre through woodland, quiet residential streets and past small vineyard plots. Yellow signs mark the way, although some were missing and I did veer a little off-piste.
The house’s restored rooms have 18th-century furnishings and personal keepsakes, but botanical garden is the highlight. I went in the late afternoon and had it almost to myself.
Les Charmettes is free to visit and closed on Mondays. Tourist Information will give you a printed map with directions.
How to Spend One Day in Chambéry
If you only have a single day, start early with the elephant trail before the day-trippers arrive, taking in the fountain, Rue Basse du Château and Les Halles for a coffee. Head to the cathedral and cloister mid-morning, then walk to the castle.
Have lunch somewhere near Les Halles or the old town squares, then spend the early afternoon at the Musée des Beaux-Arts if art is your thing, or walking up to Les Charmettes if you’d rather be outdoors.
Round off the evening with dinner in the old town. It’s a manageable day, and it leaves you time to slow down rather than rushing between sights.
Where to Eat in Chambéry
Savoyard food is built for a mountain climate, and Chambéry is a good place to try it. Two places I tried and liked were La Bouillion Savoyard, and Restaurant Les Halles.
For a refreshing drink, I gravitated toward O’Cardinal’s Irish pub in the square next to the cathedral.
Where to Stay in Chambéry
I stayed at Maison des Ducs in a perfect location on the edge of the old town and a short walk from the station. My room overlooking the peaceful garden was clean and spacious, and staff were friendly and helpful.
Getting There and Getting Around
Chambéry is on the main rail line between Lyon and Turin, which is what made it such a convenient stopover on my Interrail trip.
Direct trains run regularly from Lyon (around 1 hour 45 minutes) and from Turin via Modane. It’s also well connected to Annecy (about 45 minutes) and Aix-les-Bains (around 15 minutes), both easy day trips from Chambéry.
The station is a short, flat walk from the old town, so once you arrive you shouldn’t need a car or public transport.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.