Wondering what there is to do in Vienna at Christmas, and whether the city even opens its doors on the big day? I spent four nights there over the festive period and came away with a full itinerary.
The city goes all out for the season, and I’ll tell you what I got up to, where I ate, stayed and drank more mulled wine than planned.
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How I Did It
I spent four nights in Vienna as a solo traveller, arriving on Christmas Eve and flying back to London on December 28th. My base was Hotel Kaiserhof Wien, a short walk from Karlsplatz.
Over four days I walked the old town, caught up on my art history, toured two Habsburg palaces and took in Vienna’s classical music scene. Between sightseeing I ducked into cosy restaurants and cafes for Austrian food.
It was a real treat.
Is Vienna Open at Christmas?
Some European cities close down almost entirely over Christmas, with public transport suspended and museum doors shut. Vienna isn’t one of them.
Don’t expect much to be open on Christmas Eve after 2 pm, since that’s when Austrians celebrate. But when I landed that evening, my hotel still managed to find me a table at Bistro/Restaurant Süd Länder, a good local spot.
Most of Vienna’s main sights are open on Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Public transport runs and plenty of restaurants welcome diners too.
Vienna’s Christmas Markets
One of the best reasons to spend Christmas in Vienna is the markets. They open in mid-November with some continuing until early January.
It’s hard to beat strolling around one of these festive wonderlands, lights twinkling, the smoky aroma of roasted chestnuts perfuming the crisp night air. This is a tradition dating back to the late 13th century, and the city has plenty of choice, each market having its own personality.
Christkindlmarkt on the Rathausplatz is is the largest and best known, set against the illuminated town hall in the heart of the Old Town. It won’t be a secret find, but the backdrop makes it worth the crowds.
At the market you can buy souvenirs like gingerbread houses and snow globes, and pick up a mug of glühwein (mulled wine). Pay a small deposit for the mug, then hand it back for your money once you’re done, or keep it as a reminder of the night you had one glühwein too many.
For food, there’s no shortage of sausages, gingerbread, pancakes and pastries. My favourite was Bratkartoffeln, a pan-fried potato dish that goes perfectly with a hot drink on a cold night.
The Viennese do Christmas lighting well too. Skip the tacky coloured bulbs. Expect classy illuminations strung along the main streets instead.
Hearing the Vienna Boys’ Choir
The world’s most celebrated choir has been around since 1498, when Maximilian I replaced castrati with young boys whose voices had not yet broken. Hearing the Vienna Boys’ Choir sing at Mass on Christmas morning had been on my bucket list for a long time and was one of my main reasons for spending Christmas in Vienna.
It was an extraordinary experience. The acoustics of the Wiener Hofburgkapelle (Hofburg Chapel) in Vienna’s Imperial Palace made the notes of Haydn’s Mass in G Major soar.
Book tickets well ahead. I went for a cheap restricted-view seat and regretted not splashing more cash on a better seat.
What to Do on Christmas Day in Vienna
After Mass, I spent Christmas Day walking Vienna’s old town. Organised tours don’t run over the holidays, but a guidebook is enough to do it yourself. I used Lonely Planet Vienna.
When I checked, everything below was open on Christmas Day and Boxing Day, but check ahead of your visit.
Kunsthistorisches Museum
Housed in a former Habsburg Palace, the vast collection of the Kunsthistorisches Museum transports you from Ancient Rome to the Renaissance.
There’s no way that you will be able to see it all in a few hours, so my advice is to pick a section and stick with that. If your time is limited, spend your time in the Picture Gallery getting to know its collection of Old Masters paintings.
Don’t leave before checking out the museum’s café.
Schloss Schönbrunn
Another of Europe’s finest palaces, Schloss Schönbrunn belongs on any Vienna Christmas itinerary. It has one of the city’s best small Christmas markets in its grounds.
If you are a Mozart fangirl or fanboy, this is a must-see, as it is where he gave his first public performance in front of Empress Elisabeth.
The Belvedere
Of the three palaces, The Belvedere was my favourite. This UNESCO-listed Baroque palace once belonged to Prince Eugene of Savoy and now has an art collection to rival that of the Kunsthistorisches.
Its best-known piece is Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss (1908). There’s even a selfie room with a replica, so you can get your photo next to it without holding up the queue for the real one.
Make sure that you make time to wander around the palace’s manicured gardens. It’s no accident that the palace and gardens were named Belvedere, literal translation ‘beautiful view.’ From here, Vienna’s skyline is laid out before you.
Hundertwasserhaus
Now for something completely different.
A short tram ride from the city centre, Hundertwasserhaus is a residential apartment block with a twist. In contrast to Vienna’s stately architecture, this is completely wacky with uneven surfaces, curved lines, bright primary colours and mosaic pillars.
Sadly, you can’t take a peek inside the houses – people live here – but there’s plenty to admire from the outside.
Riesenrad Ferris Wheel
As a film buff, this was a must-do in Vienna for me.
Above the Prater, the Riesenrad Ferris wheel was the setting for Harry Lime’s cuckoo clock speech in The Third Man (1949), one of cinema’s most quoted lines.
A Christmas concert
Vienna’s musical heritage goes back centuries. Both Mozart and Beethoven are buried here, and there are several chances to hear a concert in a church decked out for the season.
On my last night, I heard Mozart’s Requiem at Karlskirche (St Charles’s Church). It was the kind of performance that makes you want to watch Amadeus again the moment you get home.
Vienna’s Coffee Houses
Vienna has Europe’s oldest café culture – its first coffee shop opened in 1683 – and is one of its most thriving. The Viennese take their coffee and cake very seriously, and the city’s coffee houses have an atmosphere unlike others you may have visited.
I sampled Sachertorte – layers of chocolate cake glued together with apricot preserve – in Café Goldegg. This was Art Nouveau heaven with green velvet booths and billiards tables. Other cafes are more formal, and waiters will bring you your coffee and cake on a silver tray.
Are Restaurants Open on Christmas Day in Vienna?
Not all restaurants will be open in Vienna on Christmas Day and Boxing Day, but I didn’t struggle to find somewhere to eat. The markets are always an option too, and no bad thing.
A few places open on the day:
Restaurant Plachutta, Wollzeile 38: a Vienna institution, famous for its boiled beef (Tafelspitz)
ef16, Fleischmarkt 16: a modern restaurant and wine bar
Where To Stay
Vienna’s hotels aren’t cheap, but there are some beautiful properties full of old-world character. It’s a big city, so book somewhere central or near a subway station.
I would stay at Hotel Kaiserhof Wien again in a heartbeat. It is in a great location, less than a ten-minute walk from Karlsplatz subway station, and has a cosy salon bar and friendly, helpful staff. The generous and varied breakfast also deserves special mention.
If this doesn’t meet your needs, take a look at Small Luxury Hotel Altstadt Vienna. This boutique hotel in a renovated historic building close to the Museum Quarter offers prized single rooms. Reviews are glowing.
In Vienna, budget is a relative term, but Hotel-Pension Wild is within walking distance of the city centre, which will bring down your accommodation costs, particularly if you are prepared to share a bathroom or toilet.
And That’s a Wrap!
I had a brilliant time in Vienna and hope you do too. Fancy another festive city break? Read about celebrating Christmas in Kraków, Poland or what it’s like to spend Christmas in Venice.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.
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