Your cruise ship glides into the Bay of Santander, and there it is: one of Spain’s most underrated coastal cities spread out before you. Whilst everyone else queues for coaches on their Barcelona cruise stop, you’ve landed somewhere altogether more manageable.
And that’s the brilliant bit: Santander cruise port is right in the city centre. No shuttle buses. No lengthy taxi rides. Just you, your walking shoes, and one of Northern Spain’s most accessible port stops waiting to be explored.
Whether you’re after contemporary art at Centro Botín, lazy beach time at El Sardinero, or a wander through medieval Santillana del Mar, Santander packs a surprising amount into a single day ashore. The challenge isn’t getting into town; it’s deciding what to do in Santander in one day before that “all aboard” call.
Getting Your Bearings at Santander Cruise Port
The Estación Marítima couldn’t be more convenient if it tried. Step off your ship, and you’re metres from Paseo de Pereda, the elegant waterfront promenade that skirts the bay. From here, the entire city centre spreads out in a manageable grid.
If you fancy getting around by bus, several urban lines stop at the Pereda Gardens right by the port. The hop-on-hop-off tourist bus also departs from the cruise terminal, though honestly, you might not need it for a day visit. Taxis are readily available if your legs decide to stage a protest later in the day.
The city layout is straightforward. The cathedral and old town lie inland from the port, whilst the Magdalena Peninsula and famous Sardinero beaches stretch out to the east.
Morning: Centro Botín
Start your day at Santander’s architectural showstopper: Centro Botín. This contemporary art museum, designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano, looks like a futuristic spaceship that’s decided to park up along the Spanish coast.
It opened in 2017 and consists of two gleaming volumes covered in 280,000 ceramic scales that shimmer in the light from the bay. The building sits partially suspended over the water on slender columns, deliberately positioned to create a dialogue between the city and the sea.
Its exhibitions showcase established 20th-century masters and emerging contemporary artists. Previous exhibitions have featured works by Henri Matisse, Francis Bacon and Juan Gris, alongside thought-provoking installations by modern Spanish artists.
Even if contemporary art isn’t your cup of tea, the architecture itself is worth the visit. The rooftop terrace alone gives you sweeping views across Santander and its bay that you won’t find anywhere else.
Practical details: Centro Botín opens at 10 am, which works perfectly with most cruise schedules. Entry costs €10 (€9 if you book in advance). The museum is closed on most Mondays (open daily throughout July and August).
Budget around 1-2 hours for your visit, depending on how deep you want to go. There’s a decent café on the ground floor if you need a coffee before pressing on.
Mid-Morning: Historic Santander
From Centro Botín, it’s a 10-minute stroll inland to the Cathedral of Santander. Now, this isn’t going to blow your mind as Seville Cathedral might, but it does have history.
The original structure dates back to the 12th century, though much of what you see today is the result of extensive restoration following a devastating fire that ripped through the city in 1941
The cathedral actually consists of two churches built one atop the other. The lower church, Iglesia del Cristo, is the older of the two and worth popping into for its Gothic arches and the tomb of Saint Emeterius, Santander’s patron saint.
The upper church is lighter and more spacious, rebuilt in a Gothic revival style after the fire.
Nearby is the Mercado de la Esperanza, a traditional covered market that’s been operating since 1897. Even if you’re not in the market for fresh octopus, it’s worth a wander through to soak up the sights and smells of Spanish market life.
The surrounding streets form Santander’s old commercial district. Here you’ll find a mix of independent shops, cafes and the occasional grand building that survived the 1941 fire. Plaza Porticada, with its elegant arcaded buildings, is particularly photogenic and usually has a few cafes where you can grab a fortifying Spanish coffee.
Lunchtime: Eating Like a Local
Like Vigo, another stop on this Bay of Biscay cruise, lunch in Santander means one thing: seafood. Head to the streets around Calle Hernán Cortés and Calle Río de la Pila in the Barrio Pesquero (fishing quarter), where local restaurants have been serving excellent fish for generations.
Look out for rabas, Santander’s version of fried calamari – crispy, tender and utterly addictive, especially with a cold beer. Other regional specialities include cocido montañés, a hearty mountain stew with beans, cabbage and various pork products, though probably not what you need before an afternoon of walking.
For a more casual approach, grab pintxos at one of the bars around Plaza Cañadío. These little snacks on bread are the Basque Country’s culinary gift to the world. Santander isn’t technically in the Basque region, but it’s close enough to have embraced the tradition.
Afternoon Option 1: Magdalena Peninsula
I spent the afternoon at the Magdalena Peninsula, which juts out into the bay just east of the city centre, connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. I walked to Playa de la Magadalena in 40 minutes, and caught a local bus #4 back to the cruise terminal (services #1, #2 and #13 also ply this route; pay the driver onboard).
It’s a gloriously scenic stroll, with views across Santander Bay, past the striking modern sculptures at Los Raqueros and the soft sands of Los Peligros Beach.
But the star attraction of this walk is the Palacio de la Magdalena, a grand English-style palace built in the early 1900s as a summer residence for Spain’s royal family. The palace sits in expansive parklands with views across the bay, surrounded by gardens that are worth exploring even if you don’t go inside the building itself.
Today, the palace is owned by the University of Cantabria and used for courses and official events, but it’s open to visitors with guided tours running throughout the day. The tours take about 30 minutes and give you a glimpse into early 20th-century royal life, complete with original furnishings and decor.
But here’s the thing: even if you skip the palace interior (I did), the peninsula itself is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. The grounds are free to access and feature several walking trails that wind along the coastline, a small zoo (mainly focusing on sea lions and penguins), and several beaches, including the aforementioned Playa de la Magdalena.
Look out for La Balsa de La Balsa, a replica of Thor Heyerdahl’s famous reed boat, which sits in the grounds. It’s a bit random finding it here, but there’s a connection to Santander, and it makes for an interesting photo.
Afternoon Option 2: Sardinero Beach
If you fancy some beach time, head to El Sardinero. It’s Santander’s most famous beach stretch, located about 2.5 kilometres northeast of the city centre. You can catch bus lines 1, 2 or 13 from the centre, or it’s a pleasant 30-minute walk along the waterfront if you’re feeling energetic.
El Sardinero actually consists of two beaches—Primera and Segunda—separated by the Jardines de Piquío, a lovely garden area on a small headland. They have golden sand, and are backed by elegant Belle Époque buildings that give the area a slightly old-fashioned resort feel.
Afternoon Option 3: Day Trip to Santillana del Mar
If you’ve got your heart set on seeing something beyond Santander itself, Santillana del Mar is the most feasible day trip option. Located about 30 kilometres southwest of the city, this medieval village is frequently (and perhaps hyperbolically) described as “the most beautiful village in Spain.”
Whether or not it lives up to that billing, Santillana del Mar is a preserved medieval town with cobblestoned streets and traditional stone houses with carved wooden balconies. It is centred around the Colegiata de Santa Juliana, a 12th-century church that’s considered one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Cantabria.
Getting there: The most straightforward option is to book a half-day shore excursion through your cruise line, which will include transport and typically a guided tour. If you’d rather go independently, regular buses run from Santander’s central bus station to Santillana del Mar, taking 35-45 minutes. Just be mindful of bus times for your return journey; the last thing you need is to miss your ship because you got the schedule wrong.
If you choose this option, you’re looking at a minimum of 4 hours from port to port, including travel time. That’s doable but tight if your ship’s in port for 8-10 hours.
What to Skip
Here’s what probably won’t work for a one-day cruise port visit:
Cabárceno Natural Park is frequently mentioned in Santander guides, and it does look excellent—a former iron mine converted into a vast wildlife park where animals roam in semi-wild enclosures. But it’s 17 kilometres from Santander, requires at least 3-4 hours to see properly, and isn’t particularly cruise-passenger friendly unless you’ve booked a specific shore excursion. Save it for when you’re spending more time in the region.
The Monte Castillo Caves near Puente Viesgo (24 kilometres away) are UNESCO World Heritage-listed and are decorated with prehistoric cave paintings. But again, the logistics make this tricky for a day visit unless you’re on an organised excursion and willing to dedicate most of your port day to this single activity.
Picos de Europa National Park is absolutely worth visiting if you’ve got time, but it’s 70-80 kilometres from Santander. Don’t kid yourself that you can pop over there for a couple of hours.
Practical Information for Visiting Santander
Currency: Spain uses euros. Most places accept cards, but it’s worth having some cash for smaller purchases and the market stalls.
Language: Spanish is the primary language. English is spoken, but don’t expect everyone to be fluent. A few basic Spanish phrases will serve you well, particularly in smaller shops and cafes.
Weather: Santander has what’s politely called a “temperate oceanic climate,” which translates to “it might rain”. Pack a light jacket even in summer. The Cantabrian coast is famously green for a reason.
July and August are the warmest (average highs around 23°C), whilst winter temperatures hover around 12-14°C.
Time in port: Most cruise ships spend 8-10 hours in Santander, typically arriving around 8 -9 am and departing by 6 – 7 pm. Always check your ship’s exact schedule and build in a buffer for getting back on board.
WiFi: Free WiFi is available at the cruise terminal and many cafes throughout the city.
Making Your Day Work: Sample Itinerary
Right, let’s be realistic about timing. If your ship docks at 8 am, you’re probably not walking off until 9 -9.30 am at the earliest. If it needs to leave by 6 pm, you need to be back on board by 5.30 pm at the absolute latest (earlier is wiser).
That gives you roughly 6-7 hours to play with, which sounds like plenty until you factor in stopping for lunch, getting slightly lost.
A sensible itinerary might look like:
- 9:00-11:00: Centro Botín
- 11:00-12:00: Wander through the old town, cathedral and market
- 12:00-13:30: Lunch
- 13:30-16:30: Either beach time at Sardinero or exploring Magdalena Peninsula
- 16:30-17:00: Head back to the ship with time for a final wander along Paseo de Pereda
- 17:15: On board with time to spare (and without that horrible “we might miss the ship” panic)
Alternatively, if you’re doing the Santillana del Mar day trip, dedicate your entire afternoon to that and keep your morning in Santander brief, perhaps just Centro Botín and a quick lunch before catching your transport out.
Final Thoughts
Santander is a lovely Spanish city and won’t overwhelm you the way some Mediterranean cruise ports do. It gives you a slice of Spanish coastal life without the crowds, the tourist hassle or the sense that you’re being herded through someone else’s city.
And that business of walking straight off the ship into the city centre? That alone makes it a winner in my book.
Looking for more Bay of Biscay cruise port guides? I’ve also written these guides on spending a day in Lisbon and what to do in Vigo, as well as tips for surviving the Bay of Biscay.
Curious about what life was like on board? Take a look at my honest review of P&O Ventura.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.