When planning my time in Bordeaux, friends urged, “You must visit Saint-Émilion !” It was great advice.
This medieval village, just a short train ride from the city, offered exactly what I needed: a welcome escape from urban life with world-class wine to boot.
Here’s how I did a Saint-Émilion day trip from Bordeaux by train.
Why Saint-Émilion is a Perfect Day Trip from Bordeaux
After a few days exploring Bordeaux, I was ready for something different. Saint-Émilion delivered magnificently.
The journey is straightforward; a quick train ride will bring you to this UNESCO World Heritage site. Furthermore, Saint-Émilion packs its modest number of attractions into a walkable area.
You won’t feel rushed seeing the highlights in a single day, and you’ll be back in Bordeaux for dinner.
Last but by no means least, it’s paradise for wine enthusiasts. Prestigious vineyards stretch in every direction, with tasting opportunities both in the village and nearby estates.
Getting There by Train
The trains are comfortable TER regional services. Bag a window seat for views of the Bordeaux vineyards.
My hard-earned advice: Check the SNCF app before heading to the station! During my visit, two of my planned trains were unexpectedly cancelled. Having real-time schedule information saved me from waiting around unnecessarily.
Once you arrive at Saint-Émilion station, it’s a 15-minute gentle uphill walk to the village centre. The route is well-marked, and those first glimpses of the village rising above the vineyards are worth every step.
My Day in St-Émilion
Thanks to a cancelled train, I arrived in Saint-Émilion a little later than planned, but this wasn’t a big deal. Half a day is all you need to hit the highlights.
Upon reaching the village, I made a beeline for the Tourist Information Centre in Place du Clocher. They provide an excellent free map, the staff can help you with bookings for the Monolithic Church, and they also have current information about which attractions and wineries are open that day.
Lunch at La Côte Braisée
Armed with information, I had an excellent early lunch at La Côte Braisée. This cosy restaurant specialises in grilled meats paired with local wines and has a good-value prix fixe menu.
As the restaurant filled quickly after 12:30, I advise arriving early or making a reservation.
The Monolithic Church (L’Église Monolithique)
Saint-Émilion takes its name from the 8th-century Breton monk who fled south to escape persecution. He became a hermit, performed miracles and gained a following. The Monolithic Church was built on the site of his cave dwelling.
The sheer scale of this underground church, hand-hewn from a single piece of rock, bowled me over (it’s the largest of its kind in Europe). In the 12th century, miners removed over 15,000 cubic metres of limestone by hand to create this subterranean sanctuary. As its paintings and sculptures were destroyed during the French Revolution, the church is bare, its columns supported by braces.
The catacombs house stone ossuaries, containing remains from centuries past. The Trinity Chapel, said to have been built above the saint’s hermitage, has whispers of its original frescoes.
Practical information
L’Église Collégiale and Cloister
I spent about 30 minutes at the Collegiate Church, just steps from the Monolithic Church. It’s free to visit.
Also dating from the 12th century, this Gothic masterpiece has sensational stained glass, intricately carved wooden choir stalls and pulpit, and stone reliefs depicting biblical scenes. Look out for the weathered stone carving of what appeared to be grape harvesting, a nod to the village’s winemaking heritage.
The church’s cloister is Gothic architecture at its most flamboyant, with delicate stone tracery. It also has a striking work of modern art: The Apocalypse, by François Peltier.
Cloître des Cordeliers
It’s worth swinging by this former Franciscan monastery, which now produces sparkling wine. There are lovely views of the village from this vantage point.
The Cloister runs wine tastings and fun tours on foot, by tuk-tuk and electric bike. Find out more here.
Château La Gaffelière: Wine Tasting Without a Car
It would be almost rude to visit Saint-Émilion and not have a wine tasting. Whilst there are options in the village itself, I decided to visit a nearby château.
What makes Château La Gaffelière perfect for train travellers is its location, on the road back toward the train station. It’s the ideal final stop before heading back to Bordeaux.
This prestigious Premier Grand Cru Classé estate has been family-run for centuries, and 90-year-old Pops keeps a beady eye on the comings and goings from his window across the road. During the excellent 90-minute group visit, we were treated to the following:
- Guided tours of their state-of-the-art vat room and cellars
- Explanations of their winemaking process
- Tastings of three wines
Top tip: Book ahead through their website or by phone. I booked on the morning of my St-Émilion day trip and secured a spot on their 16:00 tour, which worked perfectly with my train schedule.
And That’s a Wrap!
For wine lovers, Saint-Émilion is essential. For everyone else, it’s a wonderful complement to your time in Bordeaux, showing you another side of the region that produced those wines you’ve been enjoying in the city, and the chance to visit one of Europe’s most fascinating churches.
It was a very chilled day out. No car required, no rushing between distant sites, just a pleasant day of cultural and gastronomic exploration at a relaxed pace.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.