Do you have one week in Provence but no car? It’s easy to explore this region by rail.
Here are my tips for planning a South of France itinerary by train, based on my own seven day trip as a solo traveller.
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What makes Provence worth the trip
Provence has plenty to lure a traveller: Roman ruins and a papal palace, the Calanques near Marseille and acres of lavender fields, good food and a coastline to match. It’s no surprise the region has been the setting for so many movies set in France.
How I spent a week in Provence
I travelled from London to Provence by Eurostar, staying in Avignon and Cassis and getting around by train and bus.
Touring Provence by car is the easier option, especially if you want to reach its remote villages and the lavender and sunflower fields. But if, like me, you don’t want to drive, it’s entirely possible to see the best of the region without one.
Just accept that Provence is vast and you won’t cover it all in a week. Pick an area and stick with it, using one or two bases to reach everywhere else on your list.
Staying somewhere with good rail connections matters more than anywhere else. I recommend splitting your time between two bases, one for the west of the region and one for the east.
Avignon is an ideal base for exploring western Provence without a car. Cassis worked well for me as a hub for the east, though given the choice again I’d be tempted to swap it for Marseille, which is the bigger transport hub. Nice is another good option for eastern Provence.
Suggested South of France itinerary by rail
DAY 1: Avignon
Avignon to London by Eurostar
Eurostar dropped its direct London to Avignon train after COVID, so you’ll need to change in Paris or Lille.
Catch a morning train from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord, then change to the Marseille service from Gare de Lyon to Avignon. I’ve made the Paris change many times and RER line D between the two stations is quick and direct.
Changing at Lille is simpler still, just a platform change.
Avignon has two stations, Avignon TGV for the high speed trains and Gare d’Avignon Centre. A shuttle train, La Virgule, connects the two in four minutes.
If you fancy starting and finishing the week in comfort, upgrading to Eurostar Standard Premier is an affordable way to add a bit of luxury to the itinerary.
Introducing Avignon
Founded by the Romans, the centrepiece of Avignon is the UNESCO World Heritage site of Palais des Papes. Built in the 14th century for popes fleeing Rome, this is one of the most impressive European palaces and the largest Gothic palace in the world. It’s a great place to start your tour of the city.
After your visit, take a leisurely stroll through the old town before heading to Pont Saint-Bénézet, Avignon’s famous Pont D’Avignon.
Much of this bridge was washed away in the 17th century, stranding its remains in the middle of the Rhône River. Today, only four of its original 22 stone arches remain.
If you have time, try to catch a concert in the Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Doms. I got a ticket for a performance of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, which was sublime.
Where to stay in Avignon
Avignon Grand Hotel: I stayed at this lovely 4-star hotel just outside the city walls, a five-minute walk from the train station. A perfect location, both for day trips around Provence by rail and for exploring Avignon.
Here are some other places to stay in Avignon if this doesn’t meet your needs:
La Banasterie: Although further from the train station, this bed and breakfast is next to the Palais des Papes and has a flower-filled patio and terrace. Travellers’ reviews are stellar.
Hôtel Le Bristol: Another 4-star hotel choice within the city walls, but close to the train station. Reviews are good and it has a bar and lounge.
Where to eat
- Le 46, 46 rue de la Balance: A fantastic bistro near the Palais des Papes.
- L’epicerie, 10 place St. Pierre: A traditional Provençal restaurant complete with checked tablecloths.
DAY 2: Arles
Arles has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981, and was my favourite town on this trip. Its Roman ruins, pastel houses and cobblestone streets give it instant character.
Arles’ Roman amphitheatre takes pride of place. Built in the 1st century BC for an audience of 20,000 to gawp at gladiators and cheer chariot racers, it now hosts cultural events.
Arles is also where Vincent Van Gogh famously chopped off an ear, and a free self-guided walking tour will take you around sites associated with the artist.
DAY 3: Orange & Pont du Gard
Get an early start and visit Orange in the morning.
Its main draw is the Théâtre Antique, a spectacular Roman theatre and UNESCO World Heritage site with its original stage wall still intact. I’ve visited a fair few Ancient Roman sites over the years and this ranks among the best.
Take bus number 115 from Avignon’s bus station. In peak season, there are seven buses a day. The last bus back to Pont du Gard leaves around 7 pm.
If you don’t fancy taking your chances with the local bus service, you can visit Pont du Gard from Avignon on this organised tour that also includes Uzès and the Roman city of Nîmes
Pont du Gard is another sensational feat of Roman architecture, a must-see during your week in Provence.
Towering almost 50 metres above the Gard River, this is the tallest aqueduct bridge in the Roman world. Featuring 35 arches – there were originally 47 – this was an essential part of an aqueduct that supplied water to the city of Nîmes.
The Pont du Gard is exceptionally photogenic, best viewed in the soft late afternoon light when there are also fewer visitors. Just make sure that you check the time of your last bus back to Avignon.
DAY 4: Cassis
Cassis is the quintessential Provençal portside town. Overlooked by towering cliffs and the Château de Cassis, and blessed with beautiful beaches, it is a relaxing and picturesque base for travelling around Provence by rail.
It is small enough to get to know in a short space of time and has great restaurants. Soak up the sun at the beach, stroll through the old town, walk along its pier and treat yourself to a local lavender ice cream.
Don’t miss visiting the Calanques, limestone cliffs rising out of the sea. I took a boat trip from Cassis to visit the Calanques and was blown away by their scale. Several companies offer regular departures from the port.
Where to stay in Cassis
Mid-range hotel: Sure Hotel Couer de Cassis – I stayed in this 3-star hotel, tucked in one of the streets leading up from the port. Its location couldn’t have been better, and it has a spa and a small pool.
Alternative mid-range option: Cassis Loc – Chambre Meublée – This 3-star guest house is for you if you want a room with a sea view. It’s situated right on the seafront, and some rooms have balconies overlooking the harbour.
Splurge: Hôtel Les Roches Blanches Cassis – Live like a rock star at the swankiest hotel in town. The 5-star Hotel Les Roches Blanches Cassis is a ten-minute stroll from Cassis Beach.
Where to eat in Cassis
Le Chaudron, 4 rue Adolphe Thiers: a family-run bistro with great food and attentive service. It was so good that I went there for dinner for my entire stay in Cassis.
DAY 5: Marseille
Marseille is France’s oldest city and its third largest urban area. I’d been put off using it as a base by its reputation as a gritty city, and was pleased to have that idea turned on its head.
Stroll around the Vieux Port, or Old Port, and make your way to Le Panier, the oldest part of Marseille. Then, head to Notre Dame de la Garde for the best views of the port.
Whatever you do, don’t miss the MuCEM, Marseille’s Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations.
The poster child of the city’s reign as the European Capital of Culture, this building is extraordinary. Cube-like in shape, its skin of ornamental filigreed concrete throws intricate patterns on its floors and corridors as the sun streams in.
Cross a footbridge to visit the Fort St-Jean for further fantastic harbourside views.
DAY 6: Aix-en-Provence
Cards on the table, I was a little underwhelmed by Aix-en-Provence,, though I struggled to say exactly why.
Its many splashing and gurgling fountains tells of Aix’s origins as a Roman spa town, known in Roman times as Aquae Sextiae (The Waters of Sextius). Home to Cézanne and Zola and an inspiration for other artists, including Monet and Renoir, it is a Provençal town straight out of casting central.
Picture cobblestoned lanes, sun-drenched squares, local markets and the low hum of chatter emanating from café terraces. Perhaps I felt that it was just a little too perfect?
To learn more about Aix’s favourite son, take a Cézanne self-guided walking tour of the city. Starting at the city’s tourism office, key landmarks associated with the artist’s life are marked with studs stamped with a “C”.
DAY 7: Travel from Cassis to London via Marseille
My top tips for travelling around Provence by train
Check timetables in advance. Don’t assume you can turn up at a station and catch a train within 15 minutes. Even from a major hub like Avignon, services to neighbouring towns run less often than you’d expect.
Some trains need a compulsory reservation, so check before you travel.
Train travel in France isn’t cheap. If Provence is part of a longer rail trip, it’s worth looking at a Europe train pass. An Interrail pass is for European citizens or residents, a Eurail pass for everyone else. You can find out more in my guide to Interrail passes.
Visiting Provence’s lavender fields & vineyards without a car
Public transport doesn’t reach the lavender fields or vineyards, so your best bet is an organised day tour from Avignon. Here are a few highly-rated excursions from my favourite platform, GetYourGuide, which typically offers free cancellation up to 24 hours before your day trip.
Half-day vineyards tour from Avignon: Learn about wine production and grape varieties in this 5-hour guided tour in the Côtes du Rhône, which includes two wine tastings.
Châteauneuf du Pape afternoon wine tour: Spend a relaxing afternoon with a scenic drive through the rolling vineyards of Châteauneuf du Pape. This experience includes wine tastings at two different wineries.
Day tour of the lavender fields: Get your lavender fix on this half-day tour that includes a visit to Sault, one of the most beautiful Provencal villages of the Luberon.
Half-day tour of Luberon villages: This half-day tour takes you to the villages of Roussillon, Gordes and Fontaine de Vaucluse, which rank among the most beautiful in France.
Plan your visit
When to visit Provence
This is a bit of a trade-off. Visit Provence in the summer to view the lavender and sunflower fields in full bloom.
However, this region is not exactly a well-kept secret, and the South of France will be very busy, especially in August. Hotels will be more expensive and restaurants will be rammed.
I travelled to Provence in May. Whilst it was too early to visit the lavender and sunflower fields, I had good weather and it wasn’t too busy or expensive.
How many days do you need in Provence?
You could easily spend two weeks exploring the vineyards, lavender fields and picturesque towns of Provence. As a minimum, I recommend five days in Provence to soak up its landscapes and history. But if you are travelling by train or don’t want your itinerary to be too rushed, spend one week in Provence.
And that’s a wrap! Whichever way you decide to travel and wherever you base yourself, enjoy your week in Provence.
It’s an enormously seductive region, steeped in history with some of the best food and wine I’ve had anywhere. Moreover, it’s one of the best destinations in France for solo travellers.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.