If you only have a day in Lyon, the trick is not to try to do it all. This itinerary covers the best of the city without backtracking: Vieux Lyon in the morning, the Presqu’île in the afternoon, then a slow finish along the river.
I have also included an alternative afternoon for anyone who would rather skip the art gallery in favour of Lyon’s old silk district. For the fuller list of city sights, my guide to things to do in Lyon covers the rest.
Some articles on this website contain affiliate links. This means that I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase through these links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Read the full disclosure here.
One Day in Lyon Itinerary at a Glance
- Morning: Vieux Lyon, traboules, Saint-Jean Cathedral, Notre-Dame de Fourvière, Roman theatre and museum
- Lunch: a bouchon in Vieux Lyon
- Afternoon: Presqu’île, Place des Terreaux, Fontaine Bartholdi, Musée des Beaux-Arts (or Croix-Rousse and Maison des Canuts as an alternative)
- Evening: a walk along the Saône, dinner at Café Comptoir Abel
A couple of the stops below are closed on certain days (the Gallo-Roman Museum on Mondays, the Musée des Beaux-Arts on Tuesdays), so check this itinerary lines up with the day you plan to visit before you set off.
Morning in Vieux Lyon
Start on the west bank of the Saône, in Vieux Lyon. This is the Renaissance old town, all narrow lanes and stone facades, and it is the part of the city that photographs best first thing before the crowds arrive.
The traboules
The traboules are Lyon’s covered passageways, cutting through buildings and courtyards from one street to the next. Originally used by silk workers to move goods without getting them wet, a lot of them are open to the public and free to walk through.
Rue Saint-Jean and Rue du Boeuf are your best bet for finding them. Some are marked with a small sign, others you will only find by pushing on a door that looks like it should not open.
I spent a good half-hour wandering in and out of them on my last visit.
Saint-Jean Cathedral
At the heart of Vieux Lyon is the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, a Gothic cathedral with an astronomical clock inside that still keeps time 650 years after it was built. Visit at noon, 2 pm, 3 pm or 4 pm when its mechanical saints and angels whirr into action.
The cathedral is free to enter, and worth ten minutes even if you are not usually one for churches.
Notre-Dame de Fourvière
From here, head up the hill to Notre-Dame de Fourvière. You can walk it or take the funicular from Vieux Lyon station (this is what I did).
This 19th-century basilica is two churches in one. The upper church is a confection of gold tilework and marble. Descend to the Lower Church, where carved cherubs prop up the columns.
The view from its terrace is a bonus: the whole of Lyon laid out before you, with the two rivers meeting at the tip of the Presqu’île.
The Roman Theatre and Museum
Just below the basilica are the Roman theatre and odeon, and the Gallo-Roman museum.
Lyon was founded as a Roman city, and its theatre and odeon are still used for performances in the summer. They are free to visit.
Built into the hillside, the Gallo-Roman Museum of Lyon-Fourvière does a cracking job at tracing the city’s history through tiled floor fragments, coins and everyday objects. This ticketed attraction is closed on Mondays.
Lunch in Lyon
By this point you will have earned lunch. Vieux Lyon has plenty of bouchons, the small family-run restaurants that Lyon is known for, and most do a fixed price set menu. It’s a good way to try a few classic dishes.
If you would rather graze than sit down for a full meal, Les Halles Paul Bocuse is Lyon’s covered food market and a popular for a shorter lunch. But as it is located in La Part-Dieu district, it is not particularly convenient for this itinerary.
Afternoon in the Presqu’île
After lunch, cross the river into the Presqu’île, the strip of land between the Rhône and the Saône that forms Lyon’s city centre.
Place Bellecour is the square most guides send you to first, but it’s skippable unless you just want to see one of the largest pedestrian squares in Europe. It is a big open space with a statue in the middle and not much else to grab your attention.
Instead, head towards Place des Terreaux, which has a much better feel than Bellecour. At its centre is Fontaine Bartholdi, a bronze fountain of horses pulling a chariot out of the sea, designed by the same sculptor who gave the world the Statue of Liberty.
Musée des Beaux-Arts
Right on Place des Terreaux is the Musée des Beaux-Arts, one of the largest fine art museums in France outside Paris, housed in a former abbey. If you have any interest in art, give yourself at least 90 minutes here.
The collection runs from ancient Egyptian pieces through to the Impressionists, and the building itself, with its courtyard and cloisters, is part of the appeal. The sculpture gallery is particularly fine.
The museum is open Wednesday to Monday, 10am to 6pm. Tickets cost €8 in 2026. Check opening hours and prices on the official website before you go.
Alternative Afternoon: Croix-Rousse and Maison des Canuts
If a fine art museum is not your idea of fun, there is a good alternative on the other side of the Presqu’île.
Croix-Rousse is Lyon’s old silk district, built up the hill above the Presqu’île. It has a completely different feel to Vieux Lyon: steep streets, tall workshop windows built to let in the light for the looms, and a long-running mural tradition.
The Maison des Canuts is a small museum dedicated to the district’s silk history. I recommend joining one of the regular tours to see a silk-weaving demonstration on one of their traditional looms.
Give it an hour, then spend the rest of the afternoon wandering the streets around it, making your way to Mur des Canuts. This extraordinary 1,200 square metre trompe-l’oeil painted wall celebrates life in the Croix-Rousse quarter.
Either afternoon plan gets you back down to the river in time for the evening walk below.
Evening Walk along the Saône
As the afternoon turns to evening, walk back down towards the river and follow the Saône, watching Vieux Lyon and Fourvière light up on the opposite bank. Spending half an hour doing this is a perfect way to reflect on the day before dinner.
Dinner at Café Comptoir Abel
For dinner, I recommend Café Comptoir Abel, one of the oldest bouchons in Lyon and one I have eaten at myself. It has been serving traditional Lyonnais food for well over a century and the menu has not strayed far from the classics. It has a wine list built around the local Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône.
Book ahead, since it is popular with locals as well as visitors.
What to Eat in Lyon
Lyon’s reputation as a food city is not just marketing. This is a place with more restaurants per head than almost anywhere else in France, and the bouchon tradition means good food is available at every budget, not just in the expensive places.
A few dishes to look out for:
- Quenelles, poached dumplings usually made with pike, served in a rich sauce
- Salade Lyonnaise, a simple lettuce salad with bacon, croutons and a poached egg
- Andouillette, a tripe sausage you’ll either like or loathe
- Praline tart, a pink, sweet tart made with candied almonds, and one of the city’s best-known exports
- Cervelle de canut, a herby cheese spread despite the unappealing name (it translates as “silk worker’s brain”)
Most bouchons have a fixed price menu at dinner as well as lunch. Ask for a pot of the house wine rather than a bottle, a Lyonnais tradition and usually the best value drink on the menu.
Getting There and Getting Around
Lyon Part-Dieu is the main train station and it is well connected to Paris (two hours), Dijon (1 hour 40 minutes), Chambéry (1 hour 45 minutes), Geneva (two hours) and Annecy (two hours). Although a Lyon day trip from these cities is feasible, it will be a long day and my one-day itinerary is best paired with an overnight stay.
There is also Lyon Saint-Exupéry airport with a tram link (Rhônexpress) into the centre, though most people arrive by rail.
From Part-Dieu, metro line D will get you to Vieux Lyon in around ten minutes. Once you are there, you barely need transport at all.
Vieux Lyon, the Presqu’île and the riverside are all within easy walking distance of each other, and this itinerary is designed so you won’t have to double back on yourself. The only incline worth mentioning is the climb up to Fourvière, and even that has a funicular if your legs are not up to it.
Where to Stay in Lyon
On my last visit, I stayed at the Hotel Mercure Lyon Centre Beaux Arts, right in the Presqu’île and close enough to walk to Vieux Lyon and even Croix-Rousse. If you want a base that puts this whole itinerary within walking distance, it is a solid choice.
Lyon City Card
If you plan to visit several of the paid sights on this itinerary, the Lyon City Card is worth looking into. It covers public transport plus entry to a many of the city’s museums and attractions, including the Gallo-Roman museum.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.