Often overlooked in favour of Bratislava, Košice is Slovakia’s second city and one of Eastern Europe’s most underrated stops. Its compact old town packs in Gothic cathedrals, Art Nouveau architecture, synagogues, street art and some excellent food and beer.
And as its attractions are within easy walking distance of each other, one day in Košice covers the highlights comfortably. Here’s how to make the most of it.
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1. Sightsee along Hlavná ulica
Košice’s historic centre is a treasure trove of medieval bastions, Art Nouveau curves, Gothic towers and flamboyant Baroque sculptures. And most of the city’s architectural showpieces line or spill off Main Street (Hlavná ulica).
Without stops, walking from one end of Hlavná to the other should take you no more than 15 minutes. From north to south, here’s what to look out for.
The Immaculata
The Baroque Immaculata sculpture, also known as the Plague Column, was created by Simon Grimming in 1723. It was erected as a symbol of gratitude to the Virgin Mary for Košice surviving numerous plagues and wars, notably an epidemic in 1709–10.
Hlavná nam
Many of Košice’s architectural highlights are assembled along Hlavná nam, a long rectangular plaza with flower gardens, fountains and cafes. Although the famous musical fountain was undergoing restoration when I visited, the cherry blossom was in full bloom.
University Church of the Holy Trinity
Also known as the Premonstratensian Church or the Jesuit Church, this Baroque jewel was commissioned in 1641 by Princess Sofia Bathory of Transylvania in reparation for the execution of three Jesuit priests. Following the expulsion of the Jesuits from Košice in 1773, the Church of the Holy Trinity fell into the hands of the Premonstratensians.
Košice State Theatre
Designed by the architect Adolf Lang, the National Theatre hosted its first performance in 1899. Widely considered one of Europe’s most beautiful theatre buildings, its exterior combines Neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau elements.
Urban’s Tower
Urban’s Tower was originally a Gothic city bell house but was rebuilt in 1628 in Renaissance style. It takes its name from the so-called Urban Bell, blessed by St Urban, patron saint of winemakers. Now that’s my kind of saint.
St Elisabeth’s Cathedral
This is the easternmost Gothic cathedral in Europe and Slovakia’s largest cathedral. More about this below.
St Michael’s Chapel
This chapel, located close to St Elisabeth’s Cathedral, is a fine example of High Gothic style. It sits in a lovely park that was once a city cemetery (St Michael is the patron saint of the dead).
The City Coat of Arms
You’ll find the oldest coat of arms in Europe in front of the city’s Lower Gate. It was awarded by King Louis the Great of Anjou in 1369, and this bronze sculpture features an angel holding the Košice coat-of-arms between its outstretched wings.
2. Admire the frescoes in St Elisabeth’s Cathedral
If there’s one must-see in Košice, it’s the 14th-century Cathedral of St Elisabeth. It is famous for its beautiful main altar and a rare Gothic double spiral staircase. Famous for its beautiful main altar, rare Gothic double spiral staircase and expressive 15th-century frescoes (revealed during restoration in 1892), it’s worth spending time inside.
I loved the carved stone pulpit and the stained glass windows wrapped around the altar. If you’re feeling energetic, you can scale the 60-metre northern tower for views over the historic centre — I didn’t, but I’ve heard it’s worth the climb.
Admission: The cathedral is free to enter; there’s a small charge for the tower. Check price and opening times on the official website.
3. Stop for coffee at Café Slaviá
You could easily spend the best part of your day in Košice café-hopping. Locals and visitors have been patronising the Art Nouveau Café Slaviá for over a century.
It’s a great spot for people-watching, and the interiors are every bit as good as the façade.
4. Marvel at the architecture of the Jakab Palace
This romantic city palace was built close to the train station in 1899 by Peter Jakab, a local brick baron. In 1945, it served as the residence of Edvard Beneš, the Czechoslovak president.
5. Check out Košice’s synagogues
Jews were allowed to settle in Košice from 1840, and by the era of the first Czechoslovak Republic, every fifth city resident was Jewish. The Moorish-style Orthodox Synagogue on Puškinova Street was built in 1929 to accommodate this expanding population.
The partially-restored Old Jewish Synagogue on Zvonárska Street dates from the late 19th century and is used for cultural events.
6. Stroll along Crafts Street
Hrnčiarska, or Crafts Street, is a narrow cobbled lane lined with art studios and traditional workshops, close to the Executioner’s Bastion and the Mikluš Prison. I wouldn’t put it at the top of your list, but it’s a pleasant five-minute detour if you’re in the area.
7. Snap a few shots at Košice’s Umbrella Alley
Just off Hlavná at number 21, this Instaworthy courtyard canopied in colourful umbrellas is genuinely camera-worthy — even for those of us who aren’t particularly interested in The Gram.
8. Check out Košice’s street art
Košice has a thriving street art scene, which took off when the city was named European Capital of Culture in 2013. The initiative was driven by Street Art Communication, and at last count, there were 30 murals around the city.
Keep your eyes peeled as you walk — they turn up when you’re not looking for them.
9. Visit the marathon runner
Košice is home to the oldest marathon in Europe and the second oldest in the world, a fact celebrated by this bronze statue of a runner by Arpád Račko, surrounded by the names of past winners. If you fancy your chances, the Košice Peace Marathon takes place on the first Sunday of October each year.
10. Sample the craft beer at Slovakia’s oldest restaurant
End the day at Hostinec, founded in 1542 and Slovakia’s oldest restaurant. The food is good and hearty, and they brew their own beer on site. For the record, I went for a pint of Košickí majstri.
Na zdravie!
Getting to Košice and Getting Around
Košice is easily reached by train, with direct services to Budapest (3 hours 45 minutes) and Bratislava (4 hours 40 minutes). The train station is a ten-minute walk from the Old Town.
I visited as part of an Eastern and Central Europe rail trip and stayed three nights — long enough to cover the highlights at a comfortable pace, take a day trip to Bardejov and eat and drink my way around the city. That said, one full day is enough to tick off this top ten.
Where to Stay in Košice
I enjoyed my stay at Boutique Penzione Slovak, located above an Argentinian steakhouse, a minute from Hlavná. I loved the yummy breakfasts cooked to order and its location,
If this doesn’t meet your needs, City Residence Apartment Hotel has attracted stellar reviews from other travellers (and there’s a roomy studio apartment that is perfect for solo travellers), or book a room at the landmark Boutique Hotel Slávia.
Košice is 100% worth visiting, and I hope that my guide helps you have the best day there. If you’re planning more time in Slovakia, take a look at:
- A Perfect One-Day Bratislava Itinerary
- Why I Loved Bratislava, Slovakia
- One Day in Bardejov, A UNESCO Gem in Slovakia
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.