Split isn’t exactly a secret. Cruise ships deposit thousands of passengers daily, and the narrow streets of Diocletian’s Palace can feel like a rugby scrum by mid-morning. I learned this the hard way when I visited on an Adriatic Sea cruise.
But here’s the thing: you don’t need to abandon Split entirely to find some breathing room. The city has quiet corners where you can escape the swarms, and I found them by accident whilst trying to avoid yet another tour group wielding selfie sticks.
Here are five quiet spots in Split where you can experience the city without the crowds.
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1. Marjan Peninsula
The best escape from the crowds in Split is a 10-minute walk west along Riva, the seafront promenade. Keep going past the cafés until you reach Trg Republike, an elegant square with Neo-Renaissance buildings on three sides.
At Sv. Frane church, you’ll spot signs for Marjan. From here, stone steps lead uphill through shaded parkland. It’s an easy climb, and by the time you’re 50 metres up, the crowds have vanished.
The path winds through Mediterranean pine forest to the Vidilica Café viewpoint. Grab a table on the terrace and order an Ožujsko beer whilst taking in the view over Split’s red roofs and the Adriatic beyond.
If you’re feeling energetic, continue climbing to Telegrin, the peninsula’s highest point. Look out for the 13th-century St. Nicholas’s Chapel with its unusual one-sided belfry along the way.
Best time to visit: Early morning or late afternoon. The midday heat can be brutal in summer.
2. Varoš Neighbourhood
After exploring Marjan Peninsula, head back past Vidilica Café and follow Senjska downhill towards the harbour. This route takes you straight through Varoš, Split’s oldest neighbourhood, dating from the 12th century.
Varoš feels like a different city. The streets are quiet, the stone buildings have been lovingly restored, and the red-tiled roofs glow in the afternoon sun.
It’s the Split that existed before tourism took over, and there’s barely a tourist in sight.
3. Frogglyland
Froggyland might be Europe’s most wonderfully bonkers museum. When I visited, there were six people total. That’s it. The weirdness seems to keep the crowds away.
Ferenc Mere, an enthusiastic taxidermist, spent his life arranging 507 stuffed frogs into elaborate dioramas depicting early 20th-century Croatian life. Before you dismiss this as completely mad, the craftsmanship is genuinely impressive.
You descend dimly lit steps (accompanied by the sound of ribbiting) to discover glass cases lining the walls. Each contains a meticulously arranged scene: a courtroom with a frog convict awaiting his verdict, a classroom of naughty froglets tormenting their teacher, drunken frogs carousing over wine barrels.
My favourite was ‘The Village Party’, where frog couples dance whilst others play poker in one corner and get thoroughly sloshed in another.
- Location: Kralja Tomislava 5, Split
- Opening hours: Seasonal, 10 am to 10 pm
- Note: Photography isn’t allowed inside
- Best time to visit: Any time, really. It’s never crowded.
4. The UNESCO-Protected Supermarket
Split’s SPAR supermarket sits within a 13th-century palace, which itself is part of Diocletian’s Palace complex. This makes it, technically, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Yes, you’re selecting smoked cheese from a chiller cabinet nestled amongst Corinthian columns. It’s deeply strange and absolutely worth seeing.
The location has been controversial. Locals and officials have argued against putting a modern supermarket in a historic building. But the combination is compelling, and the deli counter is excellent.
- Location: Ul. Pavla Šubića
- Best time to visit: Mid-morning when it’s quieter
5. Early Morning Diocletian’s Palace
This isn’t technically off the beaten path, but timing makes all the difference. If you visit Diocletian’s Palace before 8 am, you’ll have the Vestibule and Peristyle almost to yourself.
I braved it before the crowds built up – this area was rammed by lunchtime – and then escaped to the Marjan Peninsula. Returning in the late afternoon, Split’s old town was considerably quieter.
Best times: Before 8 am or after 5 pm
Final Thoughts
The trick to enjoying Split is simple: be willing to climb some steps or set an alarm. The crowds are real and can be overwhelming, but they’re also predictable.
The crowds in Split stick to flat ground and late mornings. Do the opposite, and you’ll be fine.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.