Whilst most visitors to Nagano make a beeline for the famous snow monkeys of Jigokudani, this friendly city in the Japanese Alps is far from a one-trick pony. Beyond its proximity to these picture-perfect primates, there are ancient Buddhist temples, world-class sake breweries and tasty regional cuisine.
I loved my stay there. Get the lowdown on what to do in Nagano City in my handy guide.
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What to Do in Nagano City: My Suggested 2-Day Itinerary
I visited as part of a Japan winter trip, timed to coincide with the sensational Sapporo Snow Festival. I spent two days in Nagano, which was enough time to explore the attractions in this guide, including the Snow Monkeys and Obuse. This is how it panned out:
Visit the Legendary Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani
The Japanese Macaques at Jigokudani Monkey Park are nature’s winter performance artists.
Each morning, they descend from their mountain home to bask in the steaming waters of the natural hot springs. They soak up the warmth, groom each other, huddle for a group hug and occasionally fight.
It’s a mesmerising spectacle.
Practical Information
I’ve written this guide to visiting the Snow Monkeys, but here are the headline facts.
Getting There
The Nagaden Snow Monkey Express Bus leaves from stand #23 outside the East Exit of Nagano Station and takes 50 minutes to reach the park’s entrance.
The Nagano Dentetsu Line takes 45 minutes to travel from Nagano to Yudanaka Station. From Yudanaka Station, catch Kanbayashi Line or Shiga Kogen Line buses to the park. The journey time is less than ten minutes (a little longer on the return journey).
Alternatively, join this highly-rated excursion which includes Zenko-ji Temple, lunch and sake tasting.
Opening Hours
The Snow Monkey Park is open year-round, 9 am to 4 pm daily. It operates extended hours from April to October.
Essential tips
Explore Nagano City’s Temples
Zenko-ji Temple: The Spiritual Heart of Nagano
Steeped in legend, Zenko-ji is one of Japan’s most important and popular Buddhist temples.
It was founded in the 7th century and holds the revered Ikko-Sanzon, Japan’s first Buddhist image. Zenko-ji fundamentally shaped Nagano’s urban development, transforming it into an important temple town.
Its main hall has intricate Buddhist statues and an underground passage where you can grope your way through total darkness to touch the mystical “Key to Salvation.” Not a great experience for claustrophobes.
The complex includes historic gates, notably the main 1750 Sanmon Gate, which houses statues of the Monju Bodhisattva and the four heavenly kings (Shitenno). A pair of Nio Guardians guard the Niomon Gate.
Saiko-ji Temple: A Tale of Love and Loss
I love the story behind this serene temple.
Saiko-ji was founded in 1199 by Karukaya, a nobleman from Kyushu, who abandoned his family to pursue Buddhist asceticism. His son Ishido unknowingly encountered him as a hermit, but Karukaya could not acknowledge him due to a vow he made to Buddha.
After tragic losses, Ishido became a Buddhist monk under the guidance of that hermit. Living together as master and disciple, they were rumoured to be father and son, and Karukaya was forced to leave to protect their secret.
Years later, Ishido discovered the truth and searched for his father, arriving at Saiko-ji only after Karukaya’s death. He lived there as a hermit until his own passing.
Bronze statues in the temple complex recount scenes from this story. Their ashes and those of Ishido’s mother, Chisato, are under the temple’s three stupas.
There are also two statues of Jizo, the Buddhist guardian of children, carved by Karukaya and Ishido.
Go Sake Tasting
Nagano’s sake production combines generations of expertise with precise agricultural techniques. I recommend visiting Nishimomon-Toshinoya (est. 1637) to learn more about sake production and to taste their wares.
A lovely assistant patiently explained the grades of sake, from 35 to 50, and laid out samples for me to taste. The lower the number, the better the sake, thanks to more polished rice.
Look up the location here.
Eat Your Way Around Nagano City
Oyaki: The Regional Speciality
Don’t leave Nagano before trying Oyaki. These fist-sized buckwheat dumplings are stuffed with local produce such as mushrooms, pickles, vegetables and beans, then steamed, pan-fried or grilled.
Steps from Zenko-ji temple, Ogawanosho serves the best oyaki in Nagano.
Take a seat and sip their complimentary tea while they grill your dumplings over an open fire in the centre of the room. Three types of oyaki are on the menu: two salty (soy and miso) and one sweet (red bean).
Check the location here. There is a second shop in the MIDORI shop at Nagano Station.
Shop for spices at Yawataya Isogoro
Stop by this legendary spice shop (location here) to pick up authentic Japanese Shichimi spice blends. Shichimi is commonly used in Japanese dishes and ingredients include medium strength chilli peppers, spicy Japanese peppers called sansho, ginger, richly flavoured hemp seed, black sesame, dried orange peel and perilla.
These Japanese spices make great presents for foodie friends, the packaging is gorgeous and they occupy little room in your luggage
Discover Nagano’s Olympic Legacy
Nagano hosted the Olympic Winter Games in February 1998, and the Central Square in Nagano was the venue for downtown medal ceremonies. Omotesando Nagano Olympic Memorial Park was established in 2012 to celebrate the dreams and achievements of those taking part. The small replicas of the Olympic cauldrons at the corners of the square were made by local volunteers.
Plan Your Visit
I Winter also attracts snow sports enthusiasts and wildlife photographers, whilst spring offers mild temperatures and cherry blossoms, and autumn showcases spectacular mountain foliage.
Staying there
I loved my stay at the friendly Dormy Inn. The room was spacious by Japanese standards, and there was a welcome snack, free laundry facilities (excluding dryer) and an indoor and outdoor onsen. There was also free ice cream, drinks in the lobby and noodles from 9.30 pm until midnight.
Getting there and away
Frequent shinkansen connect Nagano with Tokyo (90 minutes) and Kanazawa (70 minutes).
Nagano Station is within easy walking distance of the city’s main sights. It takes 30 minutes to walk to Zenko-ji, located at the furthest point along the city’s main drag. Alternatively, buses from stand #1 will drop you close by.
To get the lowdown on train passes, take a look at my guide to Japanese rail passes or determine if a JR Pass is a good option for you.
Buses depart from outside the East Exit of Nagano Station
Ready to explore the treasures of Nagano City?
I hope that you enjoy your visit as much as I did. If you have any questions, please add them in the comments below, and I’ll try to help.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.