When you’re trying to pack as much as possible into a day in Budapest, it’s tempting to skip Matthias Church on the Buda side of the river. This is a mistake.
I’ve lost count of the number of churches I’ve visited across Europe, and this is one of the most unique. It’s not enough to simply admire it from the outside.
What’s in a name?
Although its official name is the Church of the Assumption of the Buda Castle or the Church of Our Lady, everyone calls it Matthias Church (Mátyás templom). It’s named after King Matthias Corvinus, who gave the building a major Gothic overhaul in the 15th century. You’ll also see it referred to as the Coronation Church of Buda, which gives you a sense of how central it is to Hungarian history
A very brief history
A Romanesque church was founded on this site by Saint Stephen, King of Hungary, in 1015. The Mongols destroyed that building, and the current structure dates from the late 13th century.
During the Ottoman occupation of the 16th century, it was stripped and converted into a mosque, a fate shared by other famous European churches, most notably the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba.
After the Turks were expelled in 1686, the church was reconsecrated and given a Baroque makeover. Most of what you see today, though, is the result of a major restoration between 1895 and 1903 by architect Frigyes Schulek, who also designed the Fishermen’s Bastion next door.
The exterior
Take a few minutes to walk around the outside of the church before you enter. The church is wildly asymmetrical, a cluster of towers with toothy spires.
The one with the multicoloured roof tiles is the Béla Tower; the taller one is Matthias Tower. Those beautiful hexagonal tiles come from the Zsolnay porcelain factory.
When you’re ready, enter through the Mary Portal, decorated with a Gothic relief.
Inside Matthias Church
The interior of Matthias Church is almost overwhelming in the best possible way. Polychromic columns are adorned with painted leaves and geometric motifs. Shafts of light through its rose windows shine spotlights on its gilded altars and stone sculptures.
Here are a few things worth seeking out:
The Shield of Matthias, a frescoed coat of arms painted in 1470, was originally on the exterior wall and moved inside in the 19th century. The surrounding murals are by Bertalan Székely, one of Hungary’s most celebrated painters.
Don’t miss the stone carving at the base of the capital of the Béla Tower, which depicts two figures pointing at a book. Dating from 1260, this is the oldest piece of stonework in Budapest and is still in its original place.
The Loreto Chapel and the nearby Lamb of God Window above the baptismal font. The window is particularly lovely.
The tomb of King Béla III and Anne de Châtillon in the north chapel. The sarcophagus was designed by Schulek and carved by Ferenc Mikula.
Schulek and Mikula were also responsible for the church’s wonderful pulpit. Built from sandstone between 1890 and 1893, it is covered with ornamental paintings and statues.
The painted statues in the Saint Emeric Chapel depict King Saint Stephen, Saint Emeric of Hungary and Saint Gerard, Bishop of Csanád.
It’s well worth taking the stairs to the first floor for a superb view of the gilded main altar, topped by the crowned Virgin Mary.
The huge windows on the southern wall of the upper floor depict the Virgin Mary and two important female saints: Saint Elisabeth and Saint Margaret.
The Matthias Church has an excellent collection of ecclesiastical treasures in its gallery. I was taken with the communion wafer iron and wafer cutters.
Plan your visit
GETTING THERE: Matthias Church is located in Holy Trinity Square (Szentháromság tér) in the historic heart of Buda.
Although you can walk up the Király lépsco (Royal Steps), a less lung-busting way is to take the funicular railway. This sets off from Clark Ádám tér next to the Széchnyi Chain Bridge. From the upper station, it’s a 10-minute walk to the church.
Bus no.16 from Deák Ferenc Square on the Pest side of the river will drop you off at Holy Trinity Square
OPENING HOURS: Monday to Friday 9 am–5 pm; Saturday variable hours; Sunday 1.15 pm–5 pm. Check the latest on the official website.
TICKETS: You need a paid ticket to enter. For an extra fee, you can huff and puff your way up 197 steps to the panoramic terrace in the church tower. The tower ticket includes a 10-minute guided tour.
TIP: Combine your visit with Fishermen’s Bastion next door.
I visited Budapest as a solo traveller on an Interrail trip through Central and Eastern Europe. For more from the region, see my guides to one day in Bratislava, Košice and things to do in Brno.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.