From the street art of East London to the vibrant murals of Penang, I’m a sucker for urban art. So I was delighted to discover a new mural art location on a return visit to KL: Kwai Chai Hong in Chinatown.
This once run-down lane is now a free, open-air gallery, showcasing the best street art in Kuala Lumpur. It’s an Instagram sensation and cultural experience rolled into one, where art meets history in the most interactive way possible.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to get to Kwai Chai Hong, what to see and other street art nearby in KL Chinatown.
Introducing Kwai Chai Hong Street in Chinatown
This narrow lane between the busy roads of Lorong Panggung and Jalan Petaling once served Kuala Lumpur’s Chinese community. Its name, translated into English as “Little Demon Alley”, is thought to have come from the mischief-making children that played in its streets.
But Kwai Chai Hong had a reputation for less innocent pleasures. It gained infamy as a hangout for drunks, drug dealers, gangsters and ladies of the night. Not somewhere you’d have wanted to linger after dark.
That changed in 2019 when local authorities and local community groups collaborated on an ambitious restoration project to breathe new life into this neglected corner of Chinatown. Malaysian artists were commissioned to transform the space with murals, whilst preserving the lane’s architectural elements, including its shophouses. One example is a century-old lamp post, thought to be the only survivor from the first set installed in Kuala Lumpur when electricity arrived in the early 1900s.
How to Get There & Opening Hours
Kwai Chai Hong is easy to miss, despite being in the heart of Chinatown.
The entrance off Loron Panggung doesn’t look like much. But don’t let this fool you; what lies beyond is worth the walk.
If you’re using public transport, Kwai Chai Hong is a 5 – 10-minute walk from Pasar Seni (MRT) or Maharajalela (Monorail). Otherwise, hop in a Grab cab. Check the location here.
Its opening hours are 9 am to midnight daily. I spent around 30 minutes here, which felt about the right length of time.
The Murals of Kwai Chai Hong
Kwai Chai Hong is a love letter to life in 1960s Chinatown. Its murals depict the daily activities of Chinese settlers from that time, a window into a bygone era, if you like.
What makes this Kuala Lumpur street art different is how immersive it is.
This street art gallery is designed to make you part of the story, inviting you to step into scenes from Malaysia’s past through carefully placed props and interactive elements. You can scan each painting’s QR code to read the story behind the artwork.
Lovers Bridge (Chew Weng Yeow)
This tender scene depicting a couple sharing an intimate moment on a traditional red bridge is the first mural as you enter Kwai Chai Hong. Once connecting different parts of KL Chinatown, these bridges were popular meeting spots for young lovers.
Lovers Bridge has become the poster child for Kwai Chai Hong. There’s space to sit alongside the painted couple, so it feels like you’re joining their moment rather than intruding on it.
Kids Playing Marbles (Chan Kok Sing)
Childhood innocence takes centre stage in this mural showing two boys engrossed in a game of marbles on the street as a little girl looks on. The scene captures the simplicity of 1960s entertainment, when kids had fun with whatever they could find.
I love the children’s expressions and the way the artist has bathed them in warm sunlight filtering through the narrow alley. If your knees can take it, crouch down and join the painted children (real marbles are sometimes placed nearby for photo opportunities).
Knife Sharpening Uncle (Norman Khek)
This mural is a tribute to a vanishing trade. The traditional knife sharpener was one of Chinatown’s most recognisable characters, a travelling craftsman who would announce his services with distinctive calls.
Just look at the uncle’s determined expression, focused on the job at hand.
Calligrapher
Chinese calligraphy masters were revered figures in old Chinatown, called on for everything from shop signs to festival decorations and personal correspondence. This artwork captures the concentration and skill required for this ancient art form, brush mid-stroke and scrolls nearby.
Take a seat on the bench beside it and watch the master at work.
Lady in Red (Norman Khek)
Prostitution was a booming trade in 1960s Kuala Lumpur Chinatown, and this mural depicts a lady of the night touting for business. Scan the QR code next to it for more on the hidden lives of sex workers from this period, complete with sound effects.
See the red scarf she’s holding out? That’s an actual chiffon scarf you can grab hold of for a photo opp.
Erhu Uncle (Andy Chok)
The traditional two-stringed violin known as the erhu provided the soundtrack to old Chinatown. Here is a musician mid-performance, his hands positioned on the strings and bow with practised precision.
I love his radiant smile. You can’t help but smile back.
Large Chinatown Mural with Interactive Barber Chair
Climb the steps to the centrepiece of Kwai Chai Hong.
This panoramic mural shows 1960s Chinatown street life, including landmark buildings like the Yan Keng Benevolent Dramatic Association and Chin Woo Stadium. There are market vendors, shophouses, a woman hanging out laundry, children playing and a barber mid-cut.
Take a seat in the authentic barber’s chair for your own virtual haircut.
More Street Art in Kuala Lumpur Chinatown
You don’t need to walk far to find more murals in KL Chinatown. One I loved was a giant mural of a little girl peering over a window ledge, above the Bubble Bee Café on Petaling Street.
Head to Lorong Petaling 2, across Jalan Petaling from Kwai Chai Hong, for murals by the artist CO2. Titled ‘Missing Stories of Petaling Street’, they show market scenes in KL from the 1930s to the 1960s.
And That’s a Wrap
Even if you have only a passing interest in street art, add Kwai Chai Hong to your KL itinerary. It was an easy addition to my day exploring Merdeka Square and Chinatown.
Whether you’re a photographer, a culture fan or a casual visitor, this small lane packs in enough history and visual interest to justify the detour from Petaling Street’s main attractions.
If you’re interested in other urban art destinations in Malaysia, take a look at my Ipoh street art trail or this bumper guide to street art in Penang.
Happy travels!
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.