I love winter in Japan.
Fewer tourists, lower prices and a countryside draped in snow. Steaming bowls of ramen taste better when it’s freezing outside, and outdoor onsen feel more indulgent.
My two-week Japan winter itinerary takes you from Hokkaido’s famous snow festival, through the Japanese Alps, to the neon-lit streets of Tokyo. I’ve done this route myself, and I can tell you: it’s a brilliant way to see Japan at its most wintery best.
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My 14-Day Japan Winter Itinerary At a Glance
- Days 1–4: Sapporo + day trip to Otaru
- Days 5–6: Fly to Nagoya / scenic Hida Express to Takayama
- Days 7–8: Takayama + day trip to Shirakawa-go
- Days 9–10: Matsumoto
- Days 11–12: Nagano + Snow Monkeys + Obuse
- Days 13–14: Tokyo
This was my third visit to Japan. I designed the itinerary specifically around winter experiences, so it looks quite different from a classic first-time Japan itinerary.
I flew into Hokkaido’s New Chitose Airport and out of Narita. I got around by plane, train and bus, and skipped the JR Pass after doing the maths — it wasn’t worth it for this particular route.
If you’re short on time or want to avoid flying, skip Sapporo and do the second half of this itinerary as a loop from Tokyo. You could also add a day trip to Hakone for views of a snow-capped Mount Fuji.
Sapporo (Days 1-4)
I timed my visit to Hokkaido to coincide with the Sapporo Snow Festival, which takes place each February for one week (check dates here). With monumental snow and ice sculptures, food galore and fun activities, it encapsulates the magic of winter in Japan’s northernmost island. It’s unlike anything else I’ve experienced in Japan.
Dedicate two days to exploring Sapporo, visiting the Snow Festival by day and night. Between festival visits, warm up in the Sapporo Beer Museum and tuck into Hokkaido’s famous ramen.
On your third full day in Hokkaido, catch the train to Otaru. This small port city is famous for its historic canal area, glass workshops, fresh seafood and sake breweries. It’s an easy return trip and a lovely contrast to the festival buzz.
Nagoya and the Hida Express to Takayama (Days 5–6)
I arrived too late to see much of Nagoya, but given more time, I’d have headed to Nagoya Castle and Atsuta Shrine. As it was, the city was merely a stopover before the real treat: the Wide View Hida Express.
Running between Nagoya and Takayama through the heart of the Japanese Alps, this is one of Japan’s most scenic train journeys. Snow-covered gorges, frozen rivers and tiny mountain settlements roll past the oversized windows. Take a window seat on the left side for the best views.
Takayama and Shirakawa-go (Days 7 and 8)
Takayama is one of my favourite Japanese towns, and it’s particularly lovely in winter.
The old merchant quarter, with its wooden facades, latticed windows and cedar balls hanging outside the sake breweries, looks even better under a light dusting of snow. A full day here is well spent wandering the Sanmachi Preservation Area and the temple district, and grazing from street food stalls.
A regular bus service makes Shirakawa-go an easy day trip. This UNESCO World Heritage site is famous for its gassho-zukuri farmhouses, traditional thatched-roof homes engineered to cope with the area’s extreme snowfall. In winter, they look exactly like the postcards.
Matusmoto (Days 9 and 10)
The top sights of Matsumoto are easily covered in a day.
Matsumoto Castle — jet-black, impossibly elegant, surrounded by its moat — is the headline act. But this welcoming city has fabulous contemporary art galleries – it’s the homeplace of Yayoi Kusama – and streets with traditional merchants’ houses.
Nagano, Snow Monkeys and Obuse (Days 11 and 12)
Nagano is the best base for visiting the legendary Japanese Macaques at Jigokudani Monkey Park. They are nature’s winter performance artists, descending each morning from their mountain home to bask in the steaming waters of the natural hot springs. It’s an unforgettable experience.
The easiest way to get there is the Nagaden Snow Monkey Express Bus from stand #23 at Nagano Station’s East Exit (50 minutes).
I recommend taking the train back and stopping off at Obuse for a couple of hours. It’s a small, pretty town known for its chestnuts and traditional architecture, a quiet counterpoint to the monkey park crowds.
Nagano City itself is more than just a convenient snow money base. Zenkoji Temple is one of Japan’s most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites, and the sake breweries along Dairi Street are well worth a tasting stop.
Tokyo (Days 13 and 14)
This winter itinerary wraps up in Tokyo.
If you have a day before your flight, spend the morning in Asakusa, visiting Senso-ji, Tokyo’s most important temple. And as night falls, walk through the neon wonderland of Shinjuku, where small yakitori and ramen shops rub shoulders with pachinko parlours.
Tips for Visiting Japan in Winter
- February temperatures are no joke. In Sapporo, it dropped to -10°C at night when I visited. Layer everything, then add one more layer.
- Waterproof boots with a good grip are essential on snow and ice. Despite this, I still fell over more than once.
- The Sapporo Snow Festival is wildly popular. Book your hotel at least three months in advance, sooner if possible.
- If you’re travelling over the New Year period, expect some restaurants and attractions to be closed. Plan ahead to avoid disappointment.
Final Thoughts
In many ways, this winter trip to Japan was my favourite of my three visits.
Yes, it may lack the big-hitting cultural sights of Kyoto, but the snow-covered landscapes, the Snow Festival, the hot spring-bathing monkeys and the quiet charm of the Alps towns more than make up for this. Winter does require a bit more planning, but the payoff is worth it.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.