Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau, the largest of the Nazi concentration and death camps, is not something to be undertaken lightly. Whilst the experience is informative and a sobering act of remembrance and respect, it can also be emotionally draining.
Get the lowdown on visiting Auschwitz from Kraków and exactly what to expect.
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Should You Visit Auschwitz?
Auschwitz is a place to remember and honour the victims of the Nazis’ genocide.
Its buildings silently stand as witnesses to the atrocities that took place there between 1941 and 1944, a warning to humans not to repeat the horrors of the past. Sadly, more recent genocides suggest that humankind is not fully capable of learning these lessons.
I have seen the statistics and visited Yad Vashem in Jerusalem. I have read more than one book on and the subject, seen more than one film.
But it wasn’t until I visited Auschwitz that I could fully appreciate and understand the scale of these atrocities. Somehow it made the horror of the Holocaust more real, more visceral.
Ultimately, a visit to Auschwitz is a profoundly moving experience.
Documentary images of those who perished stare out at you, frozen at that moment in time. Their collected belongings – pots and pans, suitcases, footwear, combs and brushes, tins of hair pomade – declare their belief that they were moving to a different life.
What it’s Like to Visit Auschwitz-Birkenau
After liberation, the original intent was to raze Auschwitz to the ground and, along with it, the evil that had resided there. However, yielding to overwhelming pressure from its freed prisoners, this decision was reversed. Instead, it has been preserved as a memorial to those who perished there.
The first tour groups were taken around Auschwitz in 1947. Their guides were former prisoners.
Auschwitz was, in fact, a collection of camps.
Auschwitz I, a former Polish Army barracks, had its first intake of political prisoners in June 1940. In 1941, to increase the camp’s capacity from 30,000 to 100,000, Auschwitz II – Birkenau was built 3km northwest. It was here that the majority of Jewish prisoners died.
Your visit begins at the former Auschwitz I camp and ends in the former Auschwitz II-Birkenau camp.
After passing through security, you pick up your headset. These earphones mean that your guide doesn’t have to shout and ensure that you don’t miss what he or she has to say, even when they are out of sight.
Auschwitz I
You enter Auschwitz I under the twisted iron of the “Arbeit Macht Frei” gate – work will set you free. Whilst it has a cruelly symbolic status, only a small proportion of the estimated 1.3 – 1.5 million prisoners who entered the concentration camp passed under this gate.
Once through this infamous gate, you are greeted with a series of perfectly preserved red-brick barrack buildings, neatly spaced in rows. Some of these are largely untouched, frozen in time. The remaining buildings house exhibitions displaying 80,000 artefacts remembering the lives lost during the Holocaust.
Block 5 – Material Evidence of Crime
In Block 5 you walk past a case piled high with shoes of every conceivable style, from work boots to flowery summer sandals, the type of fancy footwear that you might wear on a day trip to the beach.
A tangled mass of eyeglasses, weighing a total of 40 kg, peer out at us from another case.
Behind a glass wall running the length of one room are seven tonnes of human hair, shaved from victims before or after death. In life, this mass of hair would have been a spectrum of colours. Over time, it has faded to a uniform dull grey.
Documentary photos show no evidence of distress as Jews awaited transfer to Auschwitz. There is a good reason for this. Unaware of the fate that awaited them, the Jews believed that they were being relocated.
This is evident from other exhibits. There are hundreds of suitcases, neatly labelled with their owner’s name. Displayed in another case are kitchen utensils, colour-coded in keeping with Kosher law, never again to be used in the preparation of a family meal.
Block 11 – The jail
The infamous Block 11 housed the administrative offices of Auschwitz and was the central jail for prisoners across the camp complex. Here, prisoners were punished and tortured in regular, dark or standing cells.
Standing cells were a particularly cruel form of punishment. Prisoners were confined in these tiny, airless cells from one night up to several weeks.
In the courtyard between Block 11 and Block 10 is the so-called Wall of Death. Thousands of prisoners met their fate here, lined up in front of a firing squad.
Roll-call square
Twice a day, at 4.30am (5.30am in winter) and 7pm, prisoners assembled in Auschwitz’s central square for roll call. If the numbers didn’t tally the roll call would be prolonged.
Winters in Poland in the 1940s were harsh and lows of –25 degrees were not unheard of. Many perished during these headcounts.
The gas chamber
The remaining gas chamber at Auschwitz is easily the most chilling area of the former concentration camp.
For a truly sobering moment look upwards. Light struggles to peek through the small holes in the roof, into which the Nazis poured deadly Zyklon.
The entire Auschwitz complex had seven gas chambers and five crematoria. Prior to the liberation of the camp, the Nazis blew most of these up. However, in their haste to destroy any incriminating evidence, this gas chamber was overlooked as it had been converted into an air-raid shelter in 1943.
Documenting arrivals at Auschwitz
However, avoiding the gas chamber was no guarantee of surviving Auschwitz. This is evident from the rows of photographs displayed in the museum.
Until 1942, guards documented an image of each new prisoner. Under each haunting image is the person’s name, nationality or ‘status’ (for example; “Jew”), occupation, date of arrival at Auschwitz and date of death.
For most prisoners, there is only a small gap between these dates.
Auschwitz II – Birkenau
The size of Auschwitz II – Birkenau reveals the scale of Hitler’s murderous ambition. Less of a museum and more of a memorial, Auschwitz II – Birkenau is twenty times the size of Auschwitz I.
The remains of its structures, including its 300 mostly wooden barracks, have been left untouched. These include a pile of rubble that was a gas chamber and Crematorium IV. Unlike the other crematoria at Auschwitz, this was not blown up by the Nazis. Instead, it was burnt down during a mutiny led by the Sonderkommandos earlier in 1944.
Only those deemed to be useful – invariably the young and fit – avoided the gas chamber. Their ‘reward’ was a sentence of forced labour and existence in appalling conditions.
It was at the unloading ramp that dreams began to die. Dreams of a new home. Dreams of a new life. Dreams of meeting children and grandchildren yet to be born.
How to get between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II – Birkenau
If you don’t fancy walking the 3km between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II – Birkenau, there is a free shuttle bus that runs every 30 minutes.
How to get to Auschwitz from Kraków
Auschwitz is located in Oświęcim, 66km west of Kraków. Most people visit as a day trip, and you have several transport options depending on your budget and preferences.
By bus – the most direct option. Buses depart from Kraków’s main bus station (18 Bosacka Street) and drop you at the Museum Auschwitz bus stop in around 90 minutes. The return fare costs €20 (January 2026).
By train – the cheapest way to get there, with frequent services taking just 45 minutes from Kraków to Oświęcim. However, the station sits between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, meaning a 25-30 minute walk to reach Auschwitz I. Check timetables here.
Organised tours – the most convenient option and what I chose for my visit. I joined this tour which included transport, entrance fees and an excellent guide who provided far more context than I could have gained alone. The downside was feeling somewhat rushed without much time for quiet reflection.
Private transfers – work well if you want to choose your own departure time rather than fitting into a tour schedule. Book a private transfer here.
You can also combine Auschwitz with the Wieliczka Salt Mines in one day using this tour, though it makes for a very long day.
Tickets and Opening Hours
Auschwitz-Birkenau is open daily from 7.30am with seasonal closing times (check the official website for details). It’s closed on 1 January, Easter Sunday and Christmas Day.
Book your ticket in advance through the Auschwitz Memorial website. Tickets are released 90 days ahead and popular slots sell out quickly.
There is a ticket booth selling remaining tickets for the day, but I don’t recommend leaving this until the last minute. At best, you’ll be stuck in a long queue. At worst, you’ll discover tickets are sold out.
There are two types of entry: a guided tour (2.5 hours or 3 hours 45 minutes) or general admission without a guide. Guided tours cost 150 PLN for English language groups in 2026. General admission (self-guided tour) is free but only available in the latter half of the day. These tickets must be booked online (not available from the ticket booth).
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to visit Auschwitz?
Guided tours last 3 hours 45 minutes (or 2.5 hours when opening times are limited). If you’re visiting without a guide, allow at least 90 minutes for Auschwitz I and another 60-90 minutes for Auschwitz II-Birkenau.
Do I need to book tickets in advance?
Yes, absolutely. Tickets are released 90 days in advance and popular time slots sell out quickly. Even free admission tickets (without a guide) must be booked ahead through the official website.
Can children visit Auschwitz?
There are no age restrictions, but the museum recommends children under 14 should not visit due to the distressing nature of the exhibitions.
Is photography allowed at Auschwitz?
Yes, photography is permitted throughout except in two locations: the exhibit of victims’ hair and the basement of Block 11. Flash photography and tripods are not allowed anywhere.
How much does it cost to visit Auschwitz?
Entry to the memorial is free, but you must pay for a guided tour with an educator. In 2026, an English language tour costs 150 PLN (around £31). Free admission without a guide is available in limited afternoon time slots.
What should I wear to Auschwitz?
Dress respectfully and appropriately for a memorial site. Wear comfortable shoes as you’ll be walking around 5km over uneven ground. Wrap up warm in winter.
Can I bring a bag to Auschwitz?
Yes, but bags are restricted to 30 x 20 x 10cm. Larger bags must be left in lockers at the entrance.
Is Auschwitz wheelchair accessible?
Auschwitz I has limited accessibility due to its historic nature. Auschwitz II-Birkenau is more accessible as most of the site is outdoors. Contact the museum in advance if you have specific accessibility requirements.
Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau: Final Thoughts
Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau is emotionally challenging, but it’s also deeply important. The preserved buildings, the personal belongings, the photographs of victims – they all combine to create an understanding that no book or documentary can fully convey.
The most moving moment came right at the end of my visit. As we were exiting Auschwitz II-Birkenau, we passed a group of young Israeli visitors. To the haunting strains of John Williams’ theme from the film Schindler’s List, they wordlessly entered the camp, arms wrapped around each other in collective grief and solidarity.
Not for the first time that day, I fought back tears.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.