Roman gladiators in scarlet tunics swagger through Split’s streets, challenging tourists to mock sword fights for a few euros. It’s street theatre, but the history beneath their sandals is genuine: Diocletian’s Palace, a 1,700-year-old Roman palace that never stopped being a city.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the beating heart of Split’s Old Town, transformed over the millennia into the tangle of churches, chapels and houses that now form Split’s medieval hub. I wandered its limestone alleys on a cruise stop and found something unique: a European palace that 3,000 people still call home.
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Essential Information for Visiting
Entry: Free to walk the palace grounds. Paid entry for:
- Cathedral of St Domnius & bell tower
- Temple of Jupiter (Baptistry)
- Palace cellars
Hours: Cathedral open Monday to Saturday 8.30 am-10 pm, closed Wednesday. Bell tower open Monday – Friday, 10 am – 4 pm. Cellars typically open 8 am-8 pm.
Best Time to Visit: Early morning (before 9 am) or late afternoon (after 4 pm) to dodge cruise ship crowds.
What Makes Diocletian’s Palace Unique
Built in 305 AD for the retired Roman Emperor Diocletian, this fortified palace became a refuge for fleeing Romans in 614 AD when invaders threatened the nearby city of Salona. They moved into the emperor’s former apartments, transforming the palace into a medieval city. That transformation never stopped.
Whilst the columns and stones from the palace were recycled to build this area’s medieval tenements, the imperial apartments are long gone. However, key Roman buildings, clustered around the Peristyle (the central square), have been transformed into more modern iterations. The mausoleum is now Split’s cathedral; the Temple of Jupiter is the baptistry.
Today, around 3,000 people live within the palace walls. You’ll find bars occupying Roman chambers, shops tucked into ancient corridors, and washing hanging from medieval windows built into imperial structures. It’s living history in the truest sense.
Where to Start Your Visit
Most visitors enter through the Bronze Gate (south side) from the Riva waterfront. This was originally the sea gate where Diocletian arrived by boat. It leads directly to the palace cellars.
Alternative entry points:
- Iron Gate (west) – leads to Pjaca square
- Golden Gate (north) – the most ornate, faces the statue of Grgur Ninski
- Silver Gate (east) – near the Green Market
What to See
The cellars also feature in Game of Thrones as Daenerys’ throne room in Meereen, if that’s your thing.
The Palace Cellars
Don’t skip the underground cellars. These vast substructures once stored wine and provisions, but more importantly, they mirror the layout of Diocletian’s imperial apartments, which once sat directly above them. The apartments are long gone, but walking these basement halls gives you a sense of the palace’s original grandeur.
The Peristyle: The Palace Heart
Climb the steps from the cellars to reach the Peristyle, the palace’s central courtyard. Flanked by limestone arches and Corinthian columns, this square served as Diocletian’s ceremonial reception area.
A black granite Egyptian sphinx guards the space, one of twelve that Diocletian brought back from Egypt in 297 AD. This beauty is over 3,000 years old and originally stood watch over the emperor’s mausoleum. She’s seen a few things.
Cathedral of St Domnius (Diocletian’s Mausoleum)
Here’s where things get deliciously ironic. Diocletian’s mausoleum is now the Cathedral of St Domnius, named after a Christian martyr. Given that Diocletian persecuted Christians, this transformation feels like poetic justice.
This small, octagonal cathedral is the world’s oldest Catholic church still in use. Diocletian’s remains stayed here for at least 170 years before Christians likely ejected them in retribution.
Inside, crane your neck to see the cathedral’s dome – the largest unsupported Roman dome still intact. Its base features a frieze with hunting scenes and racing chariots.
The high altar is pure Baroque drama: gilded angels holding hands in golden splendour. Before leaving, examine the cathedral’s walnut and oak doors. These 13th-century masterpieces are carved with 28 scenes from the life of Christ in chronological sequence
Before you exit the cathedral, take a few minutes to admire its doors. These striking 13th-century walnut and oak doors are carved with a chronological sequence of 28 scenes from the life of Christ.
The Baptistry (Temple of Jupiter)
Exit the cathedral and walk down the narrow alley to reach the Baptistry straight ahead. Diocletian demanded worship as the son of Jupiter, god of sky and thunder, so naturally, he built his “father” a temple.
The dark alley approach doesn’t do it justice. Inside, there’s a remarkable barrel-vaulted ceiling divided into 64 panels, each displaying a carved face showing a different human emotion. No one knows exactly why these faces are here, though they are probably related to religious rituals.
The Crypt
Return to the cathedral’s side and descend the small steps to reach its crypt. This circular space surrounded by niches makes a peaceful escape from the crowds above.
The Vestibule
For the perfect photo opportunity, head to the vestibule. With the sphinx and cathedral on your left, climb the stone steps at the end of the Peristyle to reach a cone-shaped roofless chamber.
This was Diocletian’s waiting room, where visitors waited before being granted an audience with the emperor. Look up through the open dome to frame the blue Croatian sky.
Continue through the vestibule to reach the area that once housed Diocletian’s living quarters. Medieval tenement buildings now occupy this space, built from the recycled stones and columns of the original palace.
Practical Tips
- Early birds win: Visit between 7 am and 9 am if arriving on a cruise ship. I had the Peristyle nearly to myself at 8 am.
- Stay late: If you’re based in Split rather than visiting on a cruise, return in the evening.
- Game of Thrones fans: Several scenes were filmed here, particularly in the cellars. You can book a dedicated GoT tour if you want the full breakdown of filming locations.
- Guided tours: While the palace is easy to navigate independently, a guide adds context about how this ancient structure became a living city. Book a walking tour here.
Visiting on a Cruise
I explored Diocletian’s Palace during a Greece and Adriatic Sea cruise on MSC Sinfonia. We docked from 7 am to 5 pm, which gave plenty of time to see everything at a relaxed pace.
Ships berth at Split’s port, a straightforward 10-minute walk along the quayside to the Old Town. Everything is walkable once you’re inside the palace area.
For other stops on this cruise, see my guides to off the beaten path Split, Dubrovnik’s war walk and Santorini on a cruise.
If you’re new to cruising, I’ve written about booking your first cruise, cruise cabins to avoid and cruising solo.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.