Bologna has earned several nicknames over its long history, and three have stuck: La Rossa (the red), La Grassa (the fat) and La Dotta (the learned). Between them they capture the heart of its historic centre.
Here’s how each one plays out on the ground, along with my tips for exploring the city and where to stay.
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La Rossa (The Red)
La Rossa originally referred to the city’s appearance. Since the times of the Etruscans, clay and sandstone have been used in Bologna’s buildings, and the city’s colour palette runs from caramel to red with ochre and amber accents. Red is close enough, though.
Bologna’s harmonious appearance is no accident. In the 1970s, the city became an early champion of historical conservation and placed a preservation order on buildings within the old city walls, right down to the russet red window shutters.
Piazza Maggiore
Piazza Maggiore is the city’s beating heart and home to its most recognisable buildings.
The crenellated Palazzo d’Accursio (or Communale) has been the nerve centre for local politics since 1336. Visit the viewing terrace that wraps itself around its 15th-century Accursi Tower (Torre Accursi) for an unbeatable view of Bologna’s red rooftops.
There’s a good reason for Basilica di San Petronio‘s half-finished façade. If the Bolognese had their way, their temple to the city’s patron saint would have outdone St Peter’s in Rome. Pope Pius IV had other ideas, and ordered them to spend their money on the university’s Archiginnasio instead.
Piazza Nettuno is Piazza Maggiore’s antechamber and home to the flamboyant Fountain of Neptune by Giambologna, who created some of Florence’s finest sculptures. It marks the spot where Bologna’s Ancient Roman streets, the Cardo and Decumanus, met.
The Two Towers
Bologna was a medieval Manhattan, a city of soaring, slender towers. The Due Torri, or Two Towers, are the most famous survivors, named after two families who built them in 1119.
Torre degli Asinelli is Italy’s tallest leaning tower. The shorter of this Laurel and Hardy of medieval architecture is Torre della Garisenda. Due to its precarious structural state, you can no longer climb the Asinelli Tower.
The porticoes
Bologna’s distinctive colour scheme extends to its UNESCO-listed porticoes. Stretching for nearly 40 kilometres, this network of covered walkways makes Bologna a joy to explore on foot, protecting you from the elements while you look up at the architecture.
These days, La Rossa also nods to Bologna’s left-leaning politics. It’s the most liberal of Italy’s cities, known for its progressive social policies and strong public services.
La Grassa (The Fat)
La Grassa celebrates Bologna’s food, and this is one of the world’s great places to eat.
Start in the Quadrilatero district, a warren of narrow streets where the food trade has thrived since the 1870s. This is where you’ll find Bologna’s best food shops, selling local specialities like tortellini and mortadella.
Bologna’s trattorias cook from recipes passed down through generations. Look out for tortellini in brodo, small stuffed pasta served in a savoury broth, and tagliatelle al ragù, fresh egg pasta with a slow-cooked meat sauce
La Dotta (The Learned)
The University of Bologna was founded in 1088, making it the world’s oldest university.
Visit its former home, the Archiginnasio, for a slice of that history, including the old anatomical theatre. This spruce-panelled room was rebuilt after an Allied bomb destroyed it in the Second World War. From the Stabat Mater hall you can look through to the Archiginnasio’s library.
In the university quarter, Museo di Palazzo Poggi is worth a stop for anyone curious about the pursuit of knowledge. Its early rooms focus on Ulisse Aldrovandi, a Bologna native known as the Father of Natural History for his systematic study of animals, plants and minerals from around the world.
Tips for Exploring Bologna’s Historic Centre
Getting There
Bologna is one of Italy’s major railway hubs, with high-speed trains to Florence, Venice, Milan, Rome and beyond. Regional trains reach places like Ravenna, Ferrara, Modena and Parma.
Its station, Bologna Centrale, is 20 minutes on foot from Piazza Maggiore.
Guglielmo Marconi Airport serves many national and international airlines. It is around four miles from the city centre and connected to Bologna Centrale station by the frequent Marconi Express.
Where I Stayed in Bologna
I enjoyed my stay at Casa Klara, a quiet and comfortable apartment with a jasmine-filled terrace.
Location-wise, it was perfect. Piazza Nettuno was a ten-minute walk in one direction; Bologna Centrale was 20 minutes away in the other direction.
I also stayed one night at Savhotel before my return flight to London.
The rooms are modern and comfortable, the staff were exceptional, and it was considerably cheaper than hotels closer to the city centre. It is further from the historic centre, but frequent and cheap buses will take you there in 15 minutes.
And that’s a wrap
I hope this helps you get the most from Bologna’s historic centre. It makes a good city-break choice, not least because it doesn’t draw the crowds that Florence or Venice do. It feels lived-in rather than built for visitors.
Happy travels!
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.