Sunny Freiburg im Breisgau has a lot going for it. Hugging the western edge of the Black Forest, this university city has a compact Old Town (Altstadt), a show-stopping Cathedral and more cafes and restaurants than you can shake a stick at.
Founded as a free market town in 1120, it changed hands many times over the centuries before Allied bombs levelled 80% of it in 1944. The Old Town was rebuilt faithfully to its medieval street plan, which is why it feels so coherent today.
Make no mistake. Freiburg isn’t a fairy-tale town in the mould of Bacharach or Rothenburg ob der Tauber. But what it lacks in wonky half-timbered houses, it more than makes up for with a superb cathedral, affordable restaurants, excellent microbreweries and its proximity to the Black Forest.
I visited on a solo trip to Germany in August and spent four nights in Freiburg, using it as a base for the surrounding area. Given the choice again, I’d visit in spring or autumn. The heat was punishing, and I’d love to see the Black Forest in full autumn colour.
Hit the ground running with my guide, which covers the best things to do in Freiburg city, plus the best day trips.
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What to Do in Freiburg
You can cover Freiburg’s main attractions in one relaxed day, but I have included a few bonus destinations later in this guide if you are lingering longer. Here’s a map that doubles as a self-guided walking tour of around two miles. For step-by-step directions and to send to your smartphone, click here or on the image itself.
1. Admire the two town halls of Rathausplatz
Freiburg im Breisgau has not one but two town halls, both of which face Rathausplatz.
The red Old Town Hall on the right is adorned with a double eagle — a nod to four centuries of Habsburg rule. The two-tone New Town Hall on the left was once the city’s university.
Mosaic coats of arms representing Freiburg’s sister cities are set into the cobbles in front, including Padua, Isfahan (Iran) and Madison. The square itself is the former cloister of the neighbouring Franciscan Church of St Martin.
The Tourist Information Office is here too, though a word of warning: a decent map that’s free in most German cities cost me €1 when I visited.
A word on the nearby House of the Whale (Franziskanerstrasse 5): look up at the corner for the gargoyle with a goitre dangling from her neck. The building was once home to the philosopher and humanist Desiderius Erasmus.
2. Float your boat along one of the city’s bächle
Freiburg is famous for its bächle, the narrow canals that have run down most of the city’s streets since medieval times.
Over the centuries, these “stream-lets” doused fires and supplied the city with water. Today, kids (and a few adults) sail little wooden boats along them. When I visited during a summer heatwave, they were bone dry.
Local legend says that if you fall into a bächle, you’ll marry a Freiburger. I fell in and I haven’t. All I got was a busted foot.
3. Marvel at Münsterplatz
When you reach Münsterplatz, twirl around and do a slow 360-degree tour.
This is Freiburg’s beating heart, dominated by the majestic Münster. Look for the gargoyles adorning the side of the cathedral and try to spot the “mooning” gargoyle.
With your back to the cathedral’s gargoyles, you’re facing the Historical Merchant House (Historisches Kaufhaus), dating from 1532. To its left is the City History Museum, and beyond that the Alte Wache, a former police station that’s now a wine bar.
A market is held here every morning except on Sundays. It is at its most lively on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
The stall by the cathedral sells Münsterwurst, Freiburg’s famous fresh-grilled sausage. Don’t leave without trying one
4. Explore Freiburg Cathedral (Münster)
The lacy spire of the Münster piercing the sky 380 feet above Münsterplatz is one of Freiburg’s most iconic sights. Whilst it is no match for Cologne Cathedral or Berlin’s Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, visiting the cathedral is unmissable even if you have only a day in Freiburg.
Work started on this Gothic cathedral in 1200, and it was one of the few buildings to survive World War II intact. Inside, the cathedral’s original stained glass windows date from the 13th and 14th centuries, each marked with the seal of the merchant who sponsored it (these were removed and stashed away during WW2). A 12th-century triumphal crucifix dangles over the choir.
- Opening hours: Check the current opening hours for Freiburg Cathedral here.
- Admission cost: It is free to visit the cathedral. A small charge applies to visiting the choir and chapels. In my view, this is €2 well spent, and you receive a useful leaflet as part of the deal.
You can also climb the Münster’s bell tower for a small charge. I skipped this as I figured the cathedral itself is the main landmark and would be conspicuously absent from the view.
5. Walk Freiburg’s prettiest streets
Two of the Old Town’s most photographed streets are a short walk from the cathedral.
Schusterstrasse is lined with bächle and houses bearing mosaic seals marking their medieval purpose. Konviktstrasse is named after a former convent and, in springtime, is draped with wisteria.
At the far end of Konviktstrasse, Salzstrasse is where you’ll find Freiburg’s original inns and drinking dens. The old canalside quarter nearby — formerly the territory of tanners and millers — has been transformed into a trendy district with beer gardens and restaurants, and is home to Freiburg’s famous resident stone crocodile.
6. Stop by Swabian Gate (Schwabentor)
Double back to one of Freiburg’s two surviving gates. Schwabentor is named after the Swabians, the Freiburgers’ historical rivals.
Salt mining was big business in the 13th century, and the painting on the arch of the gate is of a merchant with a wagon groaning with salt kegs. Below it, a small figure pulls a thorn from his foot: a reminder to the city’s residents to steer clear of sinful living.
7. Take in the views from Castle Hill (Schlossberg)
Once the site of a French 18th-century fort, Schlossberg looms above the eastern end of Freiburg’s Old Town. This hulking fortress, which could garrison 150,000 soldiers, was all but destroyed when the French retreated.
Today, Schlossberg is hugely popular for its unbeatable views of Freiburg and hiking trails of different lengths. If you’re short on time, ride the Schlossbergbahn funicular (details here), turn right at the top, and walk five minutes to Kanonenplatz. The view of the Münster with forests and vineyards beyond is the best in Freiburg.
8. Visit the Old Cemetery (Alter Friedhof)
It may not be everybody’s cup of tea, but the Old Cemetery was one of my favourite places in Freiburg.
Alter Friedhof is one of the oldest cemeteries in Germany that has been preserved in its entirety. It served as Freiburg’s burial ground from 1683 to 1872, then was rededicated as a public park. Around 1,200 tombstones survive, many of them extraordinary works of Baroque and Neoclassical sculpture.
It is a peaceful and fascinating place for a stroll.
Built in 1720, St. Michael’s Chapel (Michaelskapelle) is in the middle of the cemetery. This was badly damaged in World War II but was faithfully reconstructed according to the original plan.
9. Visit the Augustiner Museum
If you are looking for a rainy-day activity in Freiburg or want an artistic fix, make a beeline for the lovely Augustiner Museum.
Housed in a former Augustinian church, it displays local fine art and medieval artefacts. Artistic highlights include works by Lucas Cranach the Elder and The Fall of Man, an exquisite Renaissance wooden sculpture.
The museum is on Augustinerplatz and is open from Tuesday to Sunday. Admission fee applies. Check here.
Exploring the Black Forest & Beyond
Freiburg im Breisgau is a marvellous base for exploring Germany’s Black Forest and the Alsace region of France. These are my favourite day trips.
10. Ride the Schlauslandbahn Cableway
Freiburg’s own little mountain gives you the best view of the Black Forest without needing a car. Schauinsland rises to 1,284m above sea level, and Germany’s longest two-way cable car whisks you 746 metres to the top in 20 minutes.
Pick up a walking map (Wanderkarte) before you board. Trails range from 2.5km to 8.8km. The signage is in German, but there’s a QR code linking to English information.
Getting there from Freiburg: Take tram #2 (direction Günterstal) to Dortstrasse, then bus #21 (direction Horben) to Schlauinslandbahn, around 30 minutes in total. Check operating times here, as it closes twice a year for maintenance.
11. Take the Hell Valley Railway to Titisee
Don’t let the name put you off. The Hell Valley Railway (Höllentalbahn) is one of the most scenic train rides in Germany, linking Freiburg and Donaueschingen via some of the steepest gradients in the country.
Trains leave Freiburg Hauptbahnhof every half hour. Check train times and prices here.
Against my better judgment, I stopped in Titisee, a wildly popular lakeside resort, but one that is completely lacking in charm. For the first time in years, I caught someone trying to short-change me.
The lake itself is Titisee’s one redeeming feature, and a there-and-back walk along its western edge is pleasant enough.
Stopping in Hinterzarten on the return journey was a better decision. This pretty, tranquil village is famous for ski jumping, and the local Tourist Information office gave me a free map with a walking trail.
12. Take a day trip to Colmar, France
Looking for all the world like it has been lifted from the pages of a child’s storybook, Colmar is an easy day trip by train from Freiburg. Thanks to its compact size, it is easy to explore Colmar in one day with time left over to sample delicious Alsace cuisine.
The journey time by train is around two hours.
13. Day trip to Strasbourg, France
With a change of train at Offenburg, you can be in Strasbourg in 1 hour and 20 minutes.
This is one of the most beautiful cities in France, with half-timbered buildings, meandering canals and a cathedral to rival anything in Europe. Its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Like Colmar, you can hit the highlights of Strasbourg in a day.
Plan Your Weekend in Freiburg
Getting there
Freiburg im Breisgau is in the southwest corner of Germany, close to its borders with France and Switzerland. High-speed trains stop at Freiburg Hauptbahnhof, which is 15 minutes on foot from the Old Town. Check times and prices at bahn.com.
Train journey times:
- Cologne: 3 hours 20 minutes
- Frankfurt: 2 hours 10 minutes
- Zürich: 1 hour 45 minutes
- Strasbourg: 1 hour 20 minutes
Basel (BSL) and Strasbourg (SXB) airports are the closest to Freiburg. Flixbus runs coach services to the city. By car, it’s just off the A5 Frankfurt–Basel autobahn and about an hour’s drive from Basel or Strasbourg along the Rhine Valley.
Getting around
Freiburg’s city centre is easy to explore on foot. You can walk from one end of the Altstadt to the other in under 20 minutes.
The excellent tram and bus system is useful for reaching outlying attractions (e.g. Schauinslandbahn).
When to visit
Spring and autumn are the best times. Summer can be very hot (Freiburg earns its title of Germany’s sunniest city). Winter brings cold and snow, and the city’s famous Christmas market.
Where to stay
Mid-range – Friedrich Boutique-Apartments
This is where I stayed, and I’d happily go back. Centrally located, spacious and comfortable, with a well-equipped kitchen including a washer-dryer. The staff were lovely. >> Check current prices
Mid-range hotel – Hotel Rappen am Münsterplatz
Right on Münsterplatz, with an outdoor terrace overlooking the cathedral and reduced rates for solo travellers. >> Check current prices
Splurge – Colombi Hotel
Freiburg’s only centrally-located 5-star, with pool, spa and an elegant bar and restaurant. >> Check current prices
If visiting in summer, check your accommodation has air conditioning.
Where to eat and drink
Thanks to its large student population, Freiburg is a great place to grab a plate of no-nonsense, affordable German grub. Here’s what I tried:
Martinsbrau (Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse 237) – The place to go for schnitzel and a glass of beer brewed on-site. Book ahead or expect a 30-minute queue.
Pho 1986( Merianstrasse 8) – If you’ve had your fill of sausages and schnitzel, try this cosy Vietnamese restaurant with outside seating. My meal was excellent and the service was friendly. They don’t serve alcohol, but the mango iced tea was sublime.
Black Forest Gateau — Available everywhere around the Münsterplatz area. Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte comprises chocolate sponge, kirsch-soaked cherries and lashings of cream. It’s one of the best things you’ll eat in Germany.
Is Freiburg Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. It’s one of the best city breaks in southern Germany; walkable, affordable, well-connected and with genuine character. A weekend gives you enough time to see the city and squeeze in at least one Black Forest day trip.
How Many Days Do You Need in Freiburg?
Two nights are the minimum for seeing the city properly. Three or four nights lets you do justice to the Black Forest and maybe a day trip to Colmar or Strasbourg. I stayed four nights and didn’t feel I was stretching it.
Is Freiburg Good for Solo Travel?
Very. Most sights are within walking distance and free or inexpensive. The student population keeps the city lively and the accommodation affordable.
It’s a low-stress, low-crime destination — a solid choice for first-time solo travellers and veterans alike. Standard solo safety precautions apply, as anywhere.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.