A practical guide from someone who’s sailed it
The Bay of Biscay’s reputation goes before it. Mention to anyone that you’re thinking of booking a cruise that crosses this stretch of water, and I guarantee you’ll get at least one dramatic story about someone being flung from their berth somewhere off the coast of Spain.
I’ll be honest with you: that reputation is deserved. But the ports on a Bay of Biscay itinerary — and particularly the P&O Ventura route I sailed, taking in Vigo, Santander, Lisbon, Porto and Cherbourg — are worth it. This route punches well above its weight and, most of the time, the Biscay crossing is perfectly manageable.
Here’s what you need to know before you go.
When to Cruise the Bay of Biscay
Best months: May to September
Sweet spot: May, June or early September
Avoid the Bay of Biscay in winter if you can. It’s notoriously rough between October and March, and while you might get lucky, you might also spend a significant portion of your cruise feeling green.
I’d also steer clear of peak summer school holidays if your schedule allows. July and August bring higher prices and busier ports, particularly Lisbon.
May and June are the sweet spot. The Atlantic coast of Spain and Portugal is pleasantly warm without being oppressive, the tourist numbers are manageable, and the sea tends to behave itself. Mostly.
Early September is equally good. The summer crowds are thinning, and you’ll often get the best of the weather.
The Cantabrian coast of northern Spain is famously green for a reason: it rains. Don’t expect wall-to-wall sunshine even in summer, and pack accordingly.
The Bay of Biscay: What to Expect at Sea
Let’s get this out of the way, because it’s the question everyone asks before booking.
The Bay of Biscay is relatively shallow compared with the open Atlantic. This combination of geography and prevailing Atlantic swell means it can get rough, sometimes very rough. Even in summer, you can hit a patch of sea that has the ship moving in ways you wouldn’t wish.
I have cruised the Bay of Biscay twice: in April and in June. We experienced choppy waters on both sailings.
Even if you hit rough seas, this doesn’t mean you’ll be ill. Modern ships are large and well-stabilised.
But if you’re prone to motion sickness, it’s worth being prepared rather than finding yourself rummaging through your luggage at 2 am for something to help.
Cabin choice matters more here than on other routes
On a Mediterranean cruise, cabin position isn’t a major concern. On a Bay of Biscay cruise, it can make a real difference.
Midship and low down is the combination you’re looking for if you have any concerns about sea-sickness. The front and back of a ship move the most during rough seas, and a cabin at the very aft or forward end can feel significantly more turbulent than one amidships.
Don’t do as I did and book a balcony cabin at the very aft of the ship. The swell hits differently there when conditions kick up, and you won’t be spending much time on that balcony if the weather’s rough anyway.
Avoid cabins directly above the nightclub or below the pool deck if you want uninterrupted sleep, but that’s good advice on any cruise. For a more detailed breakdown, I’ve written this guide on which cabins to avoid on cruise ships.
Pack sea sickness medication (and the right kind)
As a pharmacist, I’ll say this unequivocally: don’t leave home without it, even if you’ve never been seasick in your life. The Bay of Biscay has toppled some very robust sailors.
The most effective over-the-counter option is hyoscine hydrobromide (sold as Kwells or Joy-Rides in the UK). It works by blocking the signals between your inner ear and brain that trigger nausea, and it’s most effective when taken before symptoms start, ideally an hour before you expect rough conditions. If you wait until you’re already feeling queasy, you’ve missed the window.
Antihistamine-based tablets like promethazine (Phenergan) or cinnarizine (Stugeron) are also worth considering, particularly Stugeron, which is popular with sailors and tends to cause less drowsiness than promethazine in most people. That said, both can make you drowsy, so factor that in if you’re planning to spend a sea day doing things.
Ginger-based remedies (ginger capsules, ginger biscuits) and Sea-Bands are useful for mild queasiness, but shouldn’t be your only plan if the sea decides to put on a show.
For a full rundown of what I pack in my travel medicine kit as a pharmacist and frequent traveller, have a look at this post.
Dining: Skip set dining times on Bay of Biscay crossings
My advice is to avoid booking a fixed evening dining time when you’re crossing the Bay of Biscay.
Here’s why: if the sea is rough, you may not want to eat at all, or you might need to eat something very plain and gentle rather than a three-course meal with wine. Being locked into a 6:30 pm sitting in the main restaurant when the ship is rolling isn’t fun.
Freedom dining lets you eat when — and if — you feel like it. Alternatively, grab something light from the buffet, or simply have crackers in your cabin.
What to Pack for a Bay of Biscay Cruise
This isn’t a Mediterranean packing job. The Atlantic coast of Spain and Portugal is warmer than people expect, but the north of Spain and France can be decidedly fresh, particularly in the evenings.
For port days:
- Comfortable walking shoes you trust on cobblestones — both Vigo and Lisbon are extremely hilly
- Light layers rather than heavy jumpers — you’ll warm up quickly once you’re walking
- A compact umbrella or a lightweight waterproof jacket
- A cross-body bag or rucksack that closes securely (pickpockets operate in Lisbon, particularly on Tram 28 and in the Alfama)
For sea days:
- Sea sickness medication (see above — pack it, even as insurance)
- Something to do that doesn’t require staring at a screen: rough seas and screens are not a happy combination for anyone with a tendency towards nausea
- Layers for the deck, which can feel very exposed on an Atlantic crossing
Onboard:
- Your glad rags for any formal nights, if that matters to you
- Comfortable shoes for evenings onboard — you’ll have done a lot of walking in port
The Ports: What to Expect
These are the ports of call on my most recent cruise on P&O Ventura. Other popular ports include La Coruña, Bilbao, La Rochelle, Bordeaux and Guernsey.
Vigo, Spain
I’ll be honest: Vigo wasn’t the port I was most excited about. But by the time I was back on the ship, having walked a significant chunk of a medieval hill town and eaten the best octopus of my life, those modest expectations had been thoroughly exceeded.
Getting into Town
Ships dock at Estación Marítima de Vigo, right at the foot of the old town. Getting up into it is where you’ll earn your lunch, because Vigo is steep.
The easiest approach: walk through the A Laxe shopping mall beside the terminal, take the lift to the top floor, and cross the footbridge directly into the old town, bypassing the steepest section entirely. There are also free public escalators built into the hillside once you’re up in the old town itself.
Taxis wait outside the terminal gates if you need them (under €10 into the old town), but there’s really no need.
Best Things to Do in Vigo
Castelo de San Sebastian viewpoint. If you do nothing else, do this. The views across the estuary to the Cíes Islands are extraordinary.
The Jules Verne monument. A wonderfully eccentric bronze sculpture of the author perched on a giant octopus tentacle is on the Montero Rios promenade by the waterfront, a ten-minute walk from the terminal.
Taberna Eligio. Vigo’s oldest tapas bar, serving octopus, prawns and scallops since 1920 (location here)
Rua dos Cesteiros. Basket weavers have sold handmade wickerwork from pavement stalls on this street for generations. If you want a souvenir that isn’t a fridge magnet, this is the place.
Lunch on Rúa de Cánovas del Castillo. Order the pulpo a feira — octopus the Galician way, with olive oil, coarse salt and smoked paprika on a wooden board. Have a glass of cold Albarino with it.
If you have more time: A day trip to Santiago de Compostela (90km north, accessible by train), one of Spain’s most famous cities, or a ferry to the Cíes Islands nature reserve are both excellent options. But both need an early docking time and careful timing.
My full guide to spending a day in Vigo from a cruise ship has a detailed walking route and itinerary.
Santander, Spain
This might be the most underrated port stop on the entire route. Everyone knows Lisbon. Fewer people get excited about Santander in advance. Many of them change their minds on the day.
Getting into Town
The Estación Marítima couldn’t be more convenient. Step off the ship, and you’re metres from Paseo de Pereda, the elegant waterfront promenade that skirts the bay. The entire city centre spreads out from here in a manageable grid.
Best Things to Do in Santander
Centro Botín. This contemporary art museum, designed by Renzo Piano, looks like a futuristic spaceship that’s decided to park up along the Spanish coast. Even if contemporary art isn’t your thing, the architecture and rooftop terrace are worth it.
The Cathedral and Mercado de la Esperanza. A ten-minute stroll inland from Centro Botín.
Lunch in the Barrio Pesquero. Head to the streets around Calle Hernán Cortés for seafood. Look out for rabas, Santander’s version of fried calamari.
Magdalena Peninsula. Palacio de la Magdalena is 40 minutes on foot from the centre, past the Los Raqueros sculptures and Playa de los Peligros. Bus 4 back will whisk you back to the terminal when you’re done.
Sardinero Beach. If you’d rather have a beach afternoon, El Sardinero is Santander’s most well-known stretch, about 2.5 kilometres northeast of the centre. Take bus lines 1, 2 or 13 from the centre, or it’s a pleasant walk along the waterfront.
Day trip to Santillana del Mar. If medieval villages are your thing, this preserved stone town with its 12th-century Romanesque collegiate church is about 30 kilometres away. I advise visiting on a shore excursion rather than attempting independent transport, as getting the return timing right can be tricky.
My full guide to Santander from a cruise ship has a detailed itinerary and timings.
Lisbon, Portugal
The big one for most passengers. Our cruise itinerary included an overnight stop in Lisbon, which is well worth it.
One practical note before anything else: Lisbon is a city of steep hills and cobblestones. Wear trainers. This is emphatically not the place for sandals or anything with a heel.
Getting into Town
Lisbon has multiple terminals along the Tagus. Larger ships usually dock at Jardim do Tabaco, which is the more central option, close to the historic Alfama. Once you’re out, the Alfama begins almost immediately up the hill to your right.
Uber and Bolt both work well, too.
Pickpockets operate on Tram 28 and in the Alfama. Keep valuables in a secure bag and your wits about you in crowded spots.
Best Things to Do in Lisbon
Tram 28. Take it first thing in the morning before the queues build. Board at Praça Luís de Camões rather than the Martim Moniz terminus for a better chance of getting on.
Pastel de nata. Non-negotiable. A warm, flaky pastry case of slightly caramelised egg custard, dusted with cinnamon. I had mine at Santo António Pastelaria in the Alfama, but if you end up in Belém, the Pastéis de Belém bakery has been making them to the same recipe since 1837.
Castelo de São Jorge. The castle ramparts give you the best views in the city. It’s popular, so go as early as you can, and book in advance if possible.
The Alfama and the Sé. Walk downhill from the castle through the Alfama, the oldest district in Lisbon, a dense warren of narrow lanes and azulejo-tiled facades. Stop at the Sé, Lisbon’s fortress-like Romanesque cathedral, on your way down.
Praça do Comércio. Grand riverside square at the foot of the Baixa district.
Is Belém worth it? Yes — but only if your ship docks early and you can be ashore by 8 am. The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (one of the finest examples of Manueline architecture in Portugal) and the Torre de Belém are both here. If time is tight, skip it and spend more time in the Alfama instead.
Day trips: Sintra or Cascais? Both are doable by train from central Lisbon, but only if you have a full day in port and can be off the ship by 8 am. Sintra (Palácio da Pena, Moorish Castle, Quinta da Regaleira) is the more dramatic option but requires a lot of walking on steep terrain. Cascais is gentler, a coastal town with a working harbour, good seafood and wide sandy beaches.
My full Lisbon port day guide covers all of the above in detail, including Belém and the Sintra versus Cascais debate.
Porto, Portugal
Porto is one of the great undersung cruise stops. Whilst it doesn’t have Lisbon’s fame, it will end up as the highlight of the cruise for many people.
Getting into Town
A practical note first: most ships dock at Leixões, the port for Porto, about 12 kilometres northwest of the city centre. A shuttle or taxi will get you into Porto in around 20 to 30 minutes, depending on traffic.
Budget time for the return journey too — traffic into the port area can be unpredictable. If you’ve taken a taxi for the day, agree on a return time well in advance.
Best Things to Do in Porto
The Ribeira district. Picture-postcard Porto with azulejo-tiled church facades, the great iron Dom Luís I bridge striding across the Douro gorge, and traditional wooden rabelos moored on the opposite bank in Vila Nova de Gaia.
Port wine tasting in Vila Nova de Gaia. Cross the bridge on foot to the south bank and visit one of the port wine lodges. Most are open to visitors for tastings and guided cellar tours. Graham’s and Ramos Pinto both have excellent facilities.
São Bento station. Worth a visit for its entrance hall, covered in around 20,000 azulejo tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history.
Mercado do Bolhão. Recently and beautifully restored, this covered market in the city centre is a good spot for lunch or a late morning snack.
Cherbourg, France
Cherbourg is the last port before Southampton, and many passengers treat it as a gentle half-day rather than a major expedition. It’s an unpretentious French town that gets on with things without trying too hard to impress, and there’s something quite refreshing about that.
Getting into Town
The terminal is close to the city centre, making Cherbourg one of the more straightforward ports on the itinerary to navigate. It’s a short walk or quick taxi to the main sights.
Best Things to Do in Cherbourg
Cité de la Mer. This maritime museum is the city’s main attraction. It’s built into the former transatlantic passenger terminal and a decommissioned nuclear submarine — the Redoutable, the largest open to the public anywhere in the world — is its centrepiece
Place de Gaulle covered market. If museums aren’t calling, wander through the market and the surrounding streets, with a crêpe and a coffee from one of the harbour cafes.
Normandy beaches. The D-Day sites are between one and two hours from Cherbourg by car or bus. Viable if your ship docks early and stays late, and if you have the energy for it after the rest of the cruise. But if you’re already running on empty, a gentle Cherbourg morning is no bad thing.
Is a Bay of Biscay Cruise on P&O Ventura Worth It?
Yes. Unreservedly.
The itinerary is one of the best: two Spanish ports with very different characters, two Portuguese cities that complement rather than duplicate each other, and an assuming French port as a gentle final flourish. You get a real sense of the Atlantic coast of the Iberian Peninsula without unpacking and repacking every other day.
The Biscay crossing does what it does, but go in with the right expectations, choose your cabin sensibly, and bring the medication; the worst case is a day or two of feeling a bit sorry for yourself, watching the waves from your cabin.
Thinking about your ports? I’ve written detailed guides for Vigo, Santander and Lisbon, each written from my own day ashore on this cruise. And if you are interested in the experience on board, I’ve written this P&O Ventura review.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.