4 Days in Buenos Aires: Complete First-Time Itinerary

I’ll level with you: four days in Buenos Aires aren’t enough. But with a solid plan, you can cover the highlights of ‘The Paris of South America’ in a short break, and this is where my first-hand knowledge comes in handy.

This 4-day Buenos Aires itinerary includes everything I discovered during my visit: the best neighbourhoods to explore, how to move around the city, where to stay and which experiences are worth your time. It’ll be busy, but you’ll experience the history, culture and surprising diversity that make Argentina’s capital so special.

Colourful building exterior in La Boca neighbourhood

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Your 4-Day Buenos Aires Itinerary

  • DAY 1: PLAZA DE MAYO & DOWNTOWN
  • DAY 2: LA BOCA WALKING TOUR & PUERTO MADERO
  • DAY 3: SAN TELMO & EL ZANJON
  • DAY 4: LA RECOLETA CEMETERY & PALERMO STREET ART

If you only have 3 days, you can still cover these highlights by starting earlier and combining some locations. With 5 days or more, slow down and add a day trip to Uruguay.

Timing matters: if you’re visiting on a Saturday, book Casa Rosada in advance. Sunday is brilliant for San Telmo’s weekly market. La Boca tours run daily but are best earlier in the day before crowds arrive.

Day 1: Plaza de Mayo and Downtown

Start at Plaza de Mayo, the political heart of Buenos Aires, surrounded by three landmark buildings.

The solid Catedral Metropolitana, completed in 1827, is the main Catholic church and houses General José de San Martín’s mausoleum. Don’t be fooled by its sombre Neo-Classical exterior. Inside you’ll find soaring ceilings, exquisite stained glass, marble columns and detailed frescoes.

Catedral Metropolitana interior with marble columns and stained glass

The 18th-century Cabildo, once the seat of Spanish colonial rule, occupies the southern end. It now houses the National Museum of the Cabildo and the May Revolution.

Casa Rosada is the star. It was from the balcony of this pink government building in 1951 that Eva Perón gave her final speech. Sadly, interior guided tours have been suspended since the pandemic.

Pink Casa Rosada presidential palace at Plaza de Mayo
Casa Rosada, Buenos Aires

After the plaza, walk west along Avenida de Mayo towards Café Tortoni. This legendary café has been serving coffee and pastries since 1858. Order a cortado and a medialuna or alfajor at the marble-topped tables where Jorge Luis Borges once sat.

Continue to Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest avenue in the world at 120 metres, carrying up to sixteen lanes of traffic. The Obelisk juts over Plaza de la República like an exclamation mark. Erected in 1936 to commemorate the city’s 400th anniversary, it’s become an icon of Buenos Aires.

Obelisco de Buenos Aires at Plaza de la República
Obelisk, Buenos Aires

If you have time, take a 50-minute tour of Teatro Colón Opera House. Daily English tours depart six times a day. The acoustics and architecture make this one of the world’s great opera houses.

For dinner, head to any parrilla (steakhouse) in Palermo or San Telmo. Don’t leave Buenos Aires without trying the beef.

Day 2: La Boca and Puerto Madero

La Boca is a strange beast.

El Caminito, with its brightly coloured buildings, live tango and flashy art galleries, is super-touristy for one or two blocks. Stray off the tourist path, though, and you hit the start of the slums. That’s why I recommend exploring it on a walking tour (I joined this one).

Brightly painted houses on El Caminito street, La Boca
El Caminito, La Boca

This historic barrio has more depth than its Instagrammable streets suggest. The street art reflects radical politics, particularly the large mural paying tribute to Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo.

These mothers of the ‘disappeared’ conduct peaceful protests in front of Casa Rosada every Thursday, wrapping nappies around their heads as makeshift scarves. Around 30,000 ‘leftist’ sons and daughters disappeared during the 1976-1983 ‘Dirty War’.

Street art mural in La Boca commemorating Mothers of Plaza de Mayo

My favourite sight of the morning? The dogs dressed in football kits, raising money for a dog refuge.

Dogs dressed as footballers raising funds in La Boca
Well-dressed dogs of La Boca, Buenos Aires

There’s no Subte station close to La Boca. If transport isn’t included in your walking tour, catch a taxi or take the 152 bus.

I caught the bus from Palermo. The journey took 90 minutes in heavy traffic but was straightforward. The stop nearest El Caminito is where the bus terminates, and it’s a short, safe walk along the river from there.

After La Boca, head to Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires’s newest neighbourhood.

The Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve (open Tuesday to Sunday, 8 am to 6 pm; free entry) is a perfect escape from the city. Walk or cycle the trails to the waterfront promenade with views over the Río de la Plata. More than 300 bird species visit, and you might spot a river turtle or iguana.

Birdlife at Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve

The nearest subway stations are Independencia, San Juan, Plaza de Mayo and Catalinas.

Day 3: San Telmo and El Zanjón

San Telmo is what most people imagine when you mention Buenos Aires: cobbled streets, markets, tango dancers in the main square. The faded grandeur of its buildings shows it was once the richest neighbourhood in the city.

Colonial architecture in San Telmo neighbourhood
San Telmo, Buenos Aires

Don’t miss El Zanjón, a 19th-century mansion that’s a time machine into San Telmo’s past.

In 1985, Jorge Eckstein bought an abandoned tenement near his home, intending to turn it into a restaurant. Instead, he stumbled upon Argentina’s largest private archaeological site. Beyond pottery, cutlery and jewellery, he discovered a network of tunnels, once used to channel water.

Underground tunnel network at El Zanjón archaeological site
Part of the tunnel network of El Zanjon

The superb 60-minute guided tour (in English and Spanish) takes you through this labyrinth. Tours run at midday and 4 pm, with an additional 2 pm tour at weekends. Book ahead as spaces are limited. El Zanjón is at Defensa 755.

No visit to San Telmo would be complete without Plaza Dorrego.

I visited midweek to find a peaceful, picturesque square filled with people enjoying an afternoon drink in the autumn sunshine. Visit on Sunday, though, and it transforms with a craft market and tango dancers. Arrive early to bag a prime position.

Historic Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo

The easiest way to reach San Telmo is by subway. Take Subte Line D to Station Catedral or Line A to Station Plaza de Mayo. You’ll come out in Plaza de Mayo. From there, just walk down Defensa.

Day 4: La Recoleta Cemetery and Palermo Street Art

Start your last day in Buenos Aires by paying your respects to the dead.

Eva Perón is La Recoleta Cemetery’s most famous resident, but the list of other occupants reads like a Who’s Who of Argentinian history. From presidents to poets, athletes to academics, exploring its mausoleums and memorials gives a fascinating insight into the country’s past.

Eva Perón s mausoleum at La Recoleta Cemetery
Eva Peron’s final resting place, La Recoleta Cemetery

Housing over 6,400 statues, sarcophagi, coffins and crypts across four city blocks, La Recoleta Cemetery is eerily beautiful. With wide alleys and shady streets, this labyrinthine city of the dead showcases a mishmash of architectural styles: Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Baroque and Neo-Gothic, adorned with angels, Madonnas, saviours, crosses and cathedral-like domes

Art Nouveau mausoleum of Rufina Cambacérès
The tomb of Rufina Cambacérès

The cats of La Recoleta deserve a mention. Reportedly, there are around 75 of them, and they are well-fed and cared for.

One of the resident cats at La Recoleta Cemetery
One of the many feline occupants of Recoleta Cemetery

The cemetery is open 8 am to 6 pm daily. At the time of updating this itinerary (February 2026), tours were only in Spanish.

I recommend arriving before midday when it’s cooler and quieter. The closest Subte stations are Las Herras, Retiro and Callao. Buses also pass nearby, including number 59 from Palermo. An admission fee applies (credit cards only).

Finish your Buenos Aires trip in Palermo Soho, where abandoned buildings and blank walls have become canvases for local and international street artists. The liberal attitude of the city’s authorities means Buenos Aires has some of South America’s best street art.

I regretted not joining a street art walking tour, as the guides share the stories behind the murals and point out pieces you’d otherwise miss. Check out the neighbourhood’s bars and restaurants whilst you’re there. This is where Buenos Aires comes alive at night.

Tango dancers street art in Palermo Soho
Street art, Palermo

If You Have More Than 4 Days in Buenos Aires

With extra time, take a day trip to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay, just a short hop across the Río de la Plata. With cobbled streets, colonial buildings and a sprinkling of vintage cars, it’s a perfect escape from the city

Colonial-era buildings in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Choosing where to stay can feel overwhelming. Each of the city’s barrios has its own identity, pros and cons. I recommend Palermo, specifically Palermo Soho or Palermo Hollywood.

These sub-barrios have more than enough bars and restaurants to satisfy your needs. Palermo Soho focuses more on shopping, whilst Palermo Hollywood is livelier with a greater concentration of bars and restaurants. As a solo traveller, safety matters to me, and walking around Palermo at night always felt safe.

  • Mid-range: Duque Boutique Hotel 

I stayed at this excellent boutique hotel in Palermo Soho. It has a tiny spa, a delightful small garden and terrace and exceptionally friendly staff. There are many great bars and restaurants within walking distance.

Duque Boutique Hotel is on Guatemala 4364. 

>>> CHECK RATES AND AVAILABILITY

  • Budget: Hotel Chemin 

This boutique hotel in downtown Buenos Aires has garnered great reviews. Single rooms are available for solo travellers, and breakfast is included in the room rate.

>>> CHECK RATES & AVAILABILITY

  • Splurge: The Glu Boutique Hotel 

This is where I would have stayed if my budget had stretched a little further.

Discerning friends stayed here and highly rated this all-suite Palermo Soho hotel located three blocks from Plaza Serrano. All suites have either a private balcony or a terrace.

>>> CHECK RATES & AVAILABILITY

Buenos Aires has two airports: Ezeiza (EZE) handles mostly international flights, whilst Aeroparque (AEP) is the domestic hub and handles some flights to other South American countries. Public transport from both airports is limited and inconvenient, so your best bet is a taxi.

I arranged a taxi from Ezeiza Airport through my hotel in Palermo Soho. The journey took around 45 minutes in good traffic.

Alternatively, you can book this private transfer from Ezeiza International Airport, or there’s a taxi booth in the arrivals hall with similar prices to pre-booked taxis. US dollars are widely accepted. Don’t hail taxis at the airport.

A metered taxi from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery Airport was the best option. I did this 30-minute journey several times, and the price was consistent. Alternatively, book a transfer from Jorge Newberry Airport.

Getting around is relatively easy thanks to buses and the Subte (subway) network. You’ll need a SUBE card, a prepaid magnetic card available at all subway stations. Charge it at Subte stations, national lottery stores and kioscos.

There are five Subte lines crisscrossing the city, and interchanges are clearly signposted. Trains are frequent, though carriages can be packed at peak times (7-10 am and 6-8 pm).

Buses are big, comfortable and frequent, though often crowded. You have to identify the correct stop to board and where to get off, which can be challenging if you’re not familiar with the city.

When you board, tell the driver where you’re going (writing it down helped me), and he’ll charge you the correct fare. Lay your card on the SUBE reader.

Download the Como Llego app for planning journeys. It’s a sophisticated journey planner with real-time information on departures. A web version is also available.

Taxis are plentiful, relatively cheap and safe. Taxi drivers don’t expect a tip, but rounding up to the nearest convenient denomination is appreciated.

Is Buenos Aires Safe for Female Solo Travellers?

Visitor posing with Messi cutout in La Boca
Meeting a local celebrity

Buenos Aires is mostly safe, especially compared to other South American cities. During my four days there, I never felt unsafe as a solo traveller.

That said, be street smart. Petty theft is a problem in tourist areas like La Boca and San Telmo. Walk confidently, be careful with your belongings, especially smartphones, and leave your diamond necklace at home.

Book taxis in advance when possible. If you need to hail one in the street, only use a ‘radio taxi’ with a visible company logo on the rear passenger doors.

Express kidnappings occur occasionally. Victims are held and forced to empty their bank accounts at different ATMs before being quickly released. It’s uncommon but worth knowing about.

Political demonstrations have become increasingly common and can attract large numbers. Exercise normal caution at any large gathering.

Bridget Coleman, solo travel blogger and author of The Flashpacker

About Bridget

Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.

Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.

To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.

One thought on “4 Days in Buenos Aires: Complete First-Time Itinerary

  1. Cacho Robert says:

    If you go in the next month you have to quarantine yourself in an hotel for 14 days, before you can do anything.
    I was born in Buenos Aires Argentina and I got that information from the Argentinean Consulate.

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