Visitors flock to Granada to step foot in the Alhambra Palace, the most sensual and romantic of all European monuments. But there is so much more to this city than its Moorish palace, as near-perfect as it may be.
To immerse yourself in the city’s rich history and culture, you should spend at least two days in Granada. But what are the best things to do in this captivating city?
As a two-time visitor, this is where I can help. Make every minute count by following my 2-day Granada itinerary, a guide to the best things to see in one of southern Spain’s gems.
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Quick Answers for First-Time Visitors
- How many days do you need in Granada? At least two days. You’ll need most of a day for the Alhambra alone, plus time to explore the Albaicín, Sacromonte, enjoy tapas and catch a flamenco show.
- When is the best time to visit Granada? Spring and autumn are ideal. I first visited in early September and it was brutally hot. My February visit was cold mornings and evenings but pleasantly warm afternoons. Winter also means fewer crowds.
- How do I get Alhambra tickets? Buy them the moment you book your Granada trip. They’re available up to one year in advance and sell out quickly. Book through the official website, or GetYourGuide if sold out.
- Is two days enough for Granada? Two days lets you cover the main sights. For a deeper dive into the city’s history, spend three days. Avoid visiting as a day trip unless absolutely necessary.
TOP 5 THINGS TO DO
- Visit the UNESCO-listed Alhambra Palace
- Explore Granada’s history in the Albaicín
- Explore the cave dwellings of Sacromonte
- Discover the Renaissance splendour of Granada Cathedral
- Catch a flamenco performance
BEST WAY TO GET AROUND GRANADA: On foot
WHERE TO STAY
My Suggested 2-Day Granada Itinerary
Based on my experiences on my last visit, here’s how I suggest you plan two days in Granada:
No trip to Granada is complete without visiting the Alhambra. Much of your first day in the city will be devoted to exploring this magnificent Moorish Palace before diving further into the city’s Arab heritage in the Albaicín.
My two day Granada itinerary continues with visiting the gipsy quarter of Sacromonte and the city’s monumental cathedral. There will be opportunities to graze on Granada’s famous tapas and to catch a dazzling flamenco performance.
For that classic Alhambra shot: Head to Mirador San Nicolás. Yes, it’s busy (especially at sunset), but it’s a classic for a reason.
For the same view with fewer people: Try the Grand Mosque garden next door or Placeta Cavajales in the lower Albaicín. Both are far quieter.
For something romantic: Casas del Chapiz frames the Alhambra through orange trees. Gorgeous.
For Instagram-worthy streets: Carrera del Darro, the riverside street connecting Plaza Nueva to the Albaicín. Morning light is best.
Inside the Alhambra: The Court of the Myrtles, Court of the Lions, and Generalife gardens are all spectacular. Build in extra time for photos – you’ll want it.
Day 1 Itinerary
BREAKFAST AT KUBIK COFFEE
Start your day at this friendly café that serves top-notch coffee.
Address: Carrera del Darro
ALHAMBRA PALACE
The Alhambra Palace has kept watch over Granada for the best part of nine centuries.
In this palace-fortress of the Nasrid dynasty, the rulers of the final Spanish Muslim kingdom and Moorish art and architecture reached their spectacular zenith. Light, space, water and decoration are used in a way that is nothing short of magical.
This UNESCO-listed site is not one building but a vast palace complex. The main components of this complex are the Nasrid Palaces, the Alcazaba and the Generalife Gardens.
I love it so much that I have visited the Alhambra three times.
GETTING TICKETS
Tickets for the Alhambra are available up to one year in advance and sell like hotcakes. To avoid the worst of the crowds, I recommend booking the first entry slot of the day. Buy them through the Palace’s official website (cheapest option), or a ticket reseller such as GetYourGuide.
There are two main types of Alhambra tickets.
- General Alhambra – for the Nasrid Palaces, Generalife and the Alcazaba. The most popular ticket.
- Gardens, Generalife and Alcazaba – admission to the Generalife and the Alcazaba but not the Nasrid Palaces.
Tickets for night visits are also available.
HOW LONG TO SPEND
At a bare minimum, you should allow 3 – 4 hours to visit the Alhambra Palace complex. I easily spent four hours there and it was a return visit.
EXPLORE THE ALBAICÍN
The Albaicín (Albayzín) is the site of the city’s first fortress and stretches over a fist-shaped area facing the Alhambra. Its narrow cobblestoned streets are lined with whitewashed buildings and elegant private villas (cármenes) that guard their secrets behind stone walls.
Although its 30 mosques were converted to Baroque churches almost 900 years ago, its Moorish roots are hidden in plain sight.
I joined one of the free walking tours operated by Walk in Granada, which was an excellent way to explore the neighbourhood. As they survive on tips, the guides usually go out of their way to be brilliant.
During our tour, our guide gleefully shared his experience of sighting his first pair of breasts in the Albaicín. Before the 1990s, this was a down-at-heel neighbourhood and a lady working in one of the district’s brothels gave his school group a free show from her window
STOP FOR LUNCH AT ONE OF THE ALBAICÍN’S TEA HOUSES
The excellent tea shops in the Albaicín are an enduring legacy of the influx of North Africans to Granada. My favourite was La Teteria de Bañuelo, which has a lovely outdoor patio with an Alhambra view and a resident cat.
Address: C. Bañuelo, 5
BUY CONVENT COOKIES AT SANTA ISABEL LA REAL
For melt-in-the-mouth macaroons, head to Convento de Santa Isabel la Real.
Founded by Queen Isabella of Castile on the site of the Moorish Palace Dar al-Horra (more about that later), this convent is home to an order of cloistered nuns. An important part of their calling is avoiding interaction with the outside world.
Make your way to the corner of the courtyard where you’ll find a wooden hatch in the wall. Ring the bell and wait for a response. Then, open the hatch, and an unseen hand spins a Lazy Susan to reveal a menu of sweet goodies.
Speak your choice to the faceless nun on the other side of the wall and place your euros on the shelf. She will spin the Lazy Susan a final time to reveal your cakes.
Cake and sweet-making is a burgeoning cottage industry amongst cloistered nuns in Spain. Not only do you get a box of delicious sweets in exchange for a modest sum, but this interaction offers a small window into a part of the spiritual landscape of the country.
TAKE IN THE CLASSIC ALHAMBRA VIEW
MIRADOR SAN NICOLAS
This handsome plaza at the heart of the Albaicín is the most popular place in Granada for classic Alhambra views. However, it’s not exactly a well-kept secret. At busy times of day, and especially around sunset, you will be bumping elbows with other visitors to capture that perfect Alhambra vista.
QUIETER ALTERNATIVES
I preferred the view from the garden of the Grand Mosque of Granada, the city’s sole surviving mosque. This tranquil and welcoming spot is next door to San Nicolas Church and sells sweets and tea.
Alternatively, take in the view from Placeta Cavajales. This is a little-known viewpoint in the lower part of the Albaicín, close to the teahouses.
GO ON A TAPAS CRAWL
After a busy day in Granada, you should have worked up quite an appetite and will be hunting for somewhere to eat and drink.
Granada has one of the best tapas scenes in the whole of Andalusia. It is also one of the last cities where, for the most part, tapas are served for free with a drink.
This is how it works. When you order a drink at a bar in Granada, you will get a small plate of food along with it. With each subsequent drink, you will get another plate of food.
The choice of food is usually random, which is part of the fun. That said, there are a handful of places in Granada where you can select your tapa from a menu.
But tapas bars in Granada are not for the faint-hearted. They are boisterous and loud and may have limited places to sit. Good bars fill up quickly and it will be standing room only.
You are likely to find your favourite tapas bar just by wandering around, but here are some to try:
- Los Manueles – This is a Granada city centre institution. Although it’s a guidebook favourite, it is also authentic. Address: C Reyes Católicos, 61
- Bodegas Castañeda – One of the city’s oldest bars, Bodegas Castañeda has a sit-down restaurant and a bar. Address: C Almireceros, 1-3
- Los Diamantes – This popular tapa joint, known for its seafood, is at three central locations in Granada. Address: C Navas, 28; C Rosario, 12; Pl de Bib-Rambla, 2
Day 2 Itinerary
BREAKFAST AT CAFÉ 4 GATOS
Set yourself up for your second day in Granada with a breakfast special at this café in the heart of the Albaicín. When I visited, all the breakfast specials at Café 4 Gatos were served with freshly squeezed orange juice & a coffee or tea.
Get there early to bag a table on the café’s outside terrace.
Address: Placeta Cruz Verde, 6
VISIT GRANADA CATHEDRAL
I came close to sacrificing Granada Cathedral to the altar of time. I’m so glad that I didn’t yield to that temptation.
Built on the site of the city’s main mosque, this is one of Andalusia’s most important Renaissance cathedrals.
Construction of the Cathedral of Granada started in 1523 and finished in 1704, and its many side chapels reflect its staggering 181-year genesis. Renaissance meets Gothic with a touch of Baroque thrown in for good measure.
This soaring space, supported by immense Corinthian columns, brings to mind a Roman temple. These whitewashed columns add to the sense of space and light and serve as blank canvases for shafts of kaleidoscopic light streaming through the cathedral’s stained glass windows.
PAY YOUR RESPECTS TO ISABEL & FERDINAND AT THE ROYAL CHAPEL
The Royal Chapel (Capilla Real) is next to the Cathedral.
This flamboyant Gothic building was intended to be the final resting place of Los Reyes Católicas, Granada’s liberators. Their ornate mausoleums, sculpted from Carrara marble, take centre stage in the chapel’s transept.
The monarchs’ actual tombs are housed in a simple underground crypt and are kept company by those of their daughter, Joana “the Mad”, and her Habsburg husband, Felipe “the Handsome.”
From the portraits of Philip I of Castile that I’ve seen, I beg to differ.
Skip the touristy Alcaicería (Silk Market) near the cathedral unless you’re after souvenirs.
TAKE IN THE VIEWS FROM CASAS DEL CHAPIZ
Casas del Chapiz is one of Granada’s lesser-known spots.
Formerly two mansions that belonged to two Arab families who converted to Christianity when the city was conquered, Casas del Chapiz now houses the School of Arab Studies. From the orange tree-filled garden there are wonderful views of the Alhambra.
EXPLORE SACROMONTE
Covered in prickly pear cacti, Sacromonte Hill rises behind the Albaicín. Once the domain of Granada’s gipsies, this neighbourhood is like a tranquil Andalusian village.
Sacromonte is famous for the colourful caves (cuevas) riddling its hillside, many of which have been carefully restored. If you are looking for an intimate and interactive flamenco performance, this is the place to come.
CATCH A FLAMENCO SHOW
There are few better ways to end your 48 hour Granada itinerary than with a flamenco show.
Even though flamenco is one of the things for which Spain is most famous, I confess that I was on the fence about it. I was picturing a kitsch show, all frills and castanets.
Boy, was I wrong.
Flamenco perfectly encapsulates the soul of Andalusia. I was blown away by the sheer passion and yearning in the performance, from the beating rhythms to the expressive guitar playing.
Granada is one of the best places in Spain to catch a flamenco performance. There are a number of venues in the city, but here are two that I can recommend.
La Alboreá
I caught a flamenco performance at La Alboreá, in the heart of Granada. It was first-rate and the location just off Plaza de Santa Ana is unbeatable. Find out more here.
For a more intimate flamenco experience, head to the Sacromonte’s Cuevas los Tarantos.
If You Only Have One Day in Granada
With an early start and a can-do attitude, you can pack a lot into 24 hours.
Arrive at the Alhambra when it opens. Book the earliest time slot to beat the crowds. After exploring the Alhambra and Generalife gardens, head to the Albaicín and Sacromonte. Join one of the free walking tours run by Walk in Granada or this sunset walking tour of Albaicín and Sacromonte.
Take in the sunset view of the Alhambra from Mirador de San Nicolás, the Grand Mosque of Granada or Placeta Cavajales. Enjoy a tapas crawl, then catch a flamenco show to end your day.
Spending 3 Days in Granada
If you have a third day, explore Granada’s other UNESCO World Heritage sites. All are free every Sunday and open 10am-5pm daily.
- El Bañuelo dates from the 11th century, making it the oldest public building in Granada. This beautifully preserved Arab bath comprises three rooms – cold, hot and warm – built using recycled Roman, Visigoth and Caliphate elements.
- Casa Horno del Oro (House of the Golden Oven) was built towards the end of the 15th century and extended following the Castilian conquest.
- Palacio Dar al-Horra was home to Aixa, wife of Sultan Muhammed XI. Built around a central patio, it features exquisite plasterwork with inscriptions from the Nasrid era.
- Corral del Carbón, founded by Muhammed V, was used as a shelter and goods warehouse for traders and merchants.
Alternatively, take a day trip. The Sierra Nevada National Park is Spain’s largest national park. This ebike tour is highly rated and looks tremendous fun.
Another top pick is the white villages of La Alpujarra. This day excursion covers the best of the bunch.
Plan Your Visit: Practical Information
Getting There
BY PLANE: Granada has an airport that receives some international flights, including from the UK. The region’s largest airport is at Málaga, just over 80 miles to the southwest. There are excellent bus and train connections to Granada from Málaga.
BY TRAIN: Spain’s AVE high-speed trains connect Granada with:
- Málaga (1hr 10min)
- Madrid (3hr 20min)
- Seville (2hr 30min)
- Valencia (5hr 30min)
- Barcelona (6hr 20min)
Book through Renfe for the best prices. If the Renfe website doesn’t play nice – it refused to recognise major destinations for me on more than one occasion – book via Omio. You’ll pay a small booking fee but it’s hassle-free.
BY BUS: Travelling by bus in Spain is sometimes better than taking a train. Granada Bus Station is on the Carretera de Jaen, about 3km north of the city centre.
I travelled from Málaga to Granada by bus. Not only was this service far more frequent than that of the train but it was also cheaper. Check the times of bus services and book a ticket on Alsa’s website.
Getting Around
Granada is a walkable city, albeit one with steep streets. The only times that you are likely to need public transport are to travel to and from the bus station, and if you decide to take the bus up the hill to the Alhambra.
Bus 33 runs from the bus station to Granada city centre every 15 minutes (10-15 minute journey).
Minibuses 30 and 32 climb the hill to the Alhambra from Plaza Nueva approximately every ten minutes.
Where to Stay
I recommend you base yourself around the Albaicín or in the city centre (El Centro).
The Albaicín is a lovely neighbourhood close to Granada’s tourist attractions. The downside: several inclines and it is paved with cobblestones. This is fine for light backpacks but not so good for wheeled luggage.
El Centro is very convenient, close to the city’s main sights and there are lots of bars and restaurants, though less characterful.
I stayed at the wonderful Casa Morisca at the foot of the Albaicín. From my balcony, there were views of the Alhambra | CHECK ROOM RATES
If this doesn’t meet your needs, consider the 4-star Aurea Catedral by Eurostars or Room Mate Leo, located near Granada Cathedral. Both hotels have garnered great reviewes from other travellers.
Ready to Spend Two Days in Granada?
Granada will capture your heart.
Poised below the magnificent backdrop of the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountains, it has one of the most dramatic locations in Spain. Granada is stuffed with traditional tapas bars and is one of the best places in the country to catch a flamenco performance.
Its treasure trove of attractions doesn’t end with the Alhambra. There are whispers of Granada’s rich history throughout the city, from its other UNESCO World Heritage Sites to its steep and winding streets.
If you would like more help planning your first-time Granada itinerary, take a look at my comprehensive guide to visiting the Alhambra. For transport arrangements, here’s how to get from Malaga to Granada or from Seville to Granada by train, bus and car.
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.